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worm drive hose clamps arent that good, I use the ones as posted in the first post, or similar ones and have no problems at all with them. Running 24psi now and no issues Make sure to clean the pipe and the silicone joiner with wax and grease remover or something like that so that there is no oily residue etc on them. A nice bead on the end of the pipes will do wonders but some of my pipes don't have these and work alright with the good clamps and a good clean. What have you got in it? Still standard hoses? If so might be a good time to get some silicone joiners just to refresh the old ones (If they are original) But if they are still nice and soft then there is problably no issue with them.

Yeah agree. Just get your gearbox rebuilt to handle a bit more. At least then you will know its built for what your throwing at it, it will fit back in the car, and will work as it used to (apart from the way it shifts etc if you choose to get it upgraded like this)

Throwout bearing? Hard to say without hearing it

All good, I was a bit confused but now that I re-read your original comment, it seems alot less aimed at me now lol, opps Didn't even realise this was originally from 2009 lol. Thread revival and I got sucked into it. Thought someone would have done a DIY on this before Alot of us have all been down the atmo BOV route with stock/MAF computer and once you see first hand how bad the car is with it, you dont keep it around for long We were all young and dumb once

Just keep it. If it aint broke, dont fix it and all that Nissan put it there for a reason, its not causing an issue, may as well keep it on there

It would be good to see, but I think it would be hard to get an adapter or custom bellhousing made to bolt to the RB block. I'm not sure how the gearbox splits the input to the 2 shafts, so might be a bit busy in the front of the gearbox. I'm sure its doable, but you might have trouble with boxes that are rear mounted and get drive from the engine through a prop shaft. WIthout having ever seen one out of a car, sitting there available to have a bit of a look at, its hard to say. Would probably end up costing a bit if you were the first to try it, but if an adapter or modification to an existing box was mass produced it might bring the price down to something which would make people think twice As above, I would be a bit sketchy about using a VW dual clutch. My girlfriends VW Polo is on its second DSG after a re-call and it shudders in 2nd on a slow takeoff which I think was half the reason they were recalled (not sure if it was the cause of that girl whose dsg failed on a motorway and was killed, but the shudder is a common problem) Maybe the Nissan GT-R box would be good but it wouldnt be cheap and has the prop shaft input.

Finally got my car tuned. The thing pulls damn hard. Will get a dyno run in the next few weeks to see what its making, there may be a very slight exhaust restriction that is affecting (very slightly) the boost right up top, but feels pretty damn good anyway

Was that aimed at me? If so: It was hardly 'mod the f**k out of it' by drilling and tapping 2 holes into the crossover pipe it was recirculating I only did it to check the BOV (which I was just borrowing at the time) worked fine. I have a genuine RZ now, on custom cooler piping I'm not sure what the bad reaction was for, It was merely another way to do it if you want to retain the recirc. It's not hard to drill and tap 2 holes in the crossover pipe..... I was just offering some advice

If you want to line the BOV up with the factory recirc pipe (if you want to use it as a recirculating BOV), then you can drill and tap the factory crossover pipe. Obviously pull it off to do it I did this with my Greddy Type RS rip off BOV before I went front facing plenum, worked a treat. Then if you want to go back to factory BOV, you can make/buy grub screws to screw into the crossover pipe (if you have drilled right through it). With some thread sealant you shouldnt have an issue Not taking away from the original DIY, just an idea for people who want to go recirc.

His condition has been described as stable now If they sound like this, I will be able to live with it

Lotus have revealed they have a 114m (pound i think) debt and the quantum deal has fallen through. They say everything is all good because of Faildonados money. Don't really understand why no major sponsors wanted in on Lotus midway through last year, I can see why it doesnt seem so good now however. Might be downhill for Lotus unless Grosjean can keep them alive.

Looks like I might be in need of a new boost gauge. My drift one looks like its out a few psi. I like the fact it has a digital display as well as LED segments that act like an analog gauge around the outside. But really anything that is half decent, and has a peak recall and/or alarm would be perfect. If it lights up blue that would be even better lol Reccomendations? Anyone have one they are trying to get rid of?

what mods are done to the engine?

You'll need to give more info then that? What RPM is this surge sound? are you sure it isnt actually the limiter? You say the engine will missfire for 10-20 mins, is this while its cold? randomly on and off?

Yeah thats what I mean. Has a torque spec. Then you put the pin through. If the pin wont tighten go a bit tighter If it were me id get a second person to have a listen to see if they can pinpoint the noise.

Im not anywhere near the car till wednesday at the earliest so cant help till then sorry

Not the best photo, but it does work

if you take the nut off the shaft on the VH45 throttle body, will the TPS fit on then?

Im sure they have a renault deal for this year.

Was the nut tight or torqued? If it were me id back it off and re-torque it. If the split pin doesnt line up then go further dont back it off

Well I have a q45 throttle body on mine with an rb25 tps. Has something broken/come out of the q45 throttle body or tps? Mine didnt have a tps on it when I got it but the 25 tps went straight in

Go here: Link

He tightened the 6 bolts from the driveshaft to the diff stub axles, this isnt what I was talking about Check the 1 large nut in the hub (outer part) of the driveshaft

Cam Caps are matched to the head, you will need to get the cam tunnels line bored once you have all the cam caps. The cam caps are all marked (i1, i2, i3, e1, e2, e3 etc) if you get second hand ones, doesnt really matter though if you have to get the tunnel line bored

Did you read what I said about the driveshaft hub nuts? Give that a go