elrodeo666

How much do you think the lit would weigh?? if its under 20kg oz post wouldnt be too bad..you gotta remember with the current rate it works out about at least 35% cheaper for me. I could be interested. Got another day out at HKS on sat sorting patrs and costing so let you know asap.

Just wondering how these compare to some of the so called brand names ???e.g HKS, RH9 , HRD , DO-luck etc,,, Witht the current exchange rate its worth me buying some parts from oz for engine build up.

I'll never miss the "Candy"....hmmmm smooth candy.. I"ll never miss kabba kura... I'll definitely wont miss the blatant lack of common sense and driving in the snow and ice for 4 months ever year. But I'll still be here for 1 more year, after that no idea where to go.

* エンジンＲＢ２０→ＲＢ２５（乗せ換え後、７万キロ走行） (Engine RB20 -RB25 Done 70,000kms) * タイミングベルト交換済み (Timing Belt Changed) * Ｒ３４タービン　アウトレット　ＨＫＳ (R34 Turbo Outlet HKS) * 東名パワードポンカム (Tomei poncam) * エアフロ　Ｚ３２用 (Air flow Z32) meter * 燃料ポンプ　Ｒ３４ (R34 Fuel pump) * コンピューター現車セッティング（テスタロッサ）Computer setting Testarosa * アペックスＮ１マフラー (Apex N1 muffler) * フロントマフラーアペックス (Front muffler Apex) * インタークーラー　ＨＫＳ (Intercooler HKS) * オイルクーラー　トラスト (Oil Cooler Trust) * ブーストコントローラー (Boost Controller) * ＬＳＤ　ノーマル (LSD Normal) * ブレーキマスターシリンダーストッパー (Brake Master cylinder stopper) * ブレーキメッシュホース (Brake mesh hose) * 足廻り　ＴＥＩＮ　ＮＡ (Tein NA) maybe Tein suspension * ＧＴＲ用車高調 Not sure on this one!! * クスコタワーバー（フロント・リア） (Cusco Tower Bar front and rear) * ＴＥＩＮ　ピロテンションロッド (Tein Pro Tension rod) * ガッチリサポート (Gachiri support) maybe solid support * フロアサポートバー (Floor support bar) * Ｎ１ヘッドライト (N1 headlight) * 後期テールランプ (Tail lamp) Rear?? * Ｒ３３ＧＴＲシート（運転席・助手席）(R33 driver and passenger seat) * ニスモ　フライホイール（２万キロ前に交換）(Nismo flywheel 20,000 km was changed) * ニスモ　セラメタクラッチ（前オーナー談） (Nismo ceramic/meatal clutch owner changed. Not surte if its ceramic metal clutch..katakana says sermeta clutch * ニスモ　強化クラッチ (Nismo strong built clutch) Ｒ３２　４ＷＤ　ＲＢ２５ターボ！！もちろん５速マニュアルです！ R32 4wd RB25 Turbo of course 5 speed manual) Not 100% of kanji but thats best I can do.

No clunk...if I take off really slowly I hear the slightest clunk noise but its cornering slowly and then putting the power down is when I get the shuddering. Its at workshop being checked today so will see what they have to say tomorrow.

What if the business is based offshore. e.g based in Japan but importing goods to australia and being paid oz dollars. Or other scenario money being payed to offhore account and having virtual offshore business address. Andrew how good nick is the head??

Good to see that you guys shafts arent that far away..well maybe.. Looks like mine wont go in this week as too bloody busy, just got enough spare time to pick up me new N1 block this arvo and drop it off at HKS for machining. Hopefully shaft goes in next week.

I'll say its a bloody compliment... with the lack of common sense on a day to day basis astounds me...I'm bloody glad i'm not japanese..life would be hellish.

Looking for input on potential trouble.. Ok I'm finding that I'm getting some shuddering when planting the power down. I dont know how to really explain it but say for instance I'm turning left or right and put the foot down (not to whel spin) I get a shuddering coming fro the rear, hard to pin point but either left side or from diff. When I stop and then start slowly I get small clunk as well. This is a recent occurence. My thoughts are either the diff is screwing up or driftshaft cv's are on the way out. When starting from standing position and put the foot down there is shuddering as well. Had a look under the car and cant see any oil leaks and everything visibly looks ok (mind you quick look only as only 3c outside today). I've got carbon tailshaft due to go in this week(probably next) so was get them to have a gander at everything but thought I"d post up here and see what peoples opinions are.. cheers

F#@k I feel for you blokes..pretty slack service and I reckon if the rest of us hadnt got our shafts we be screaming we got shafted!! (sorry couldnt resist that one).. hope it all works out sweet... on the flip side I should have mine in next week so be interesting to see the difference if any

Theres going to be big Drift event here next jan or feb, cant remember but its supposed to be a first time event in the snow..be some very big drifting. You'd be suprised how much traction you can get in the snow..the express ways after they have been snow cleared and with dusting of snow are like flat concrete, you can absolutely fly...downside is the ice, can be lethal. Of all the cars I've driven in the snow the GTR kicks arse, you feel so safe and in control when outta control.. Lining up the tailshaft to go in next week..been flat out f#@k and been waiting on some other parts which I pickup with the block.. Yep looking forward to the build..

Its being done at HKS here in Sapporo..they are pretty on the ball and have been in personal rides of theirs which are pretty awesome machines. you could eat your dinner off there workshop floor the place is so clean. But seriously from all reports here in the car scene they do meticulous work, plus supposedly their mechanics have to pass full on exams before being considered by HKS. Hopefully I'll post up some pics of the progress. Hoping to get it done in time for Auto salon next jan and do a trip down to Tokyo.

Spent the day out at HKS working out the basis for the build up. Ordered up the Step 2 2.8kit. Pick up the N1 block on friday and drop it back to HKS on sat for bore and prepping for rebuild.Cant wait to see the misso"s face when she sees it in the living room. No way it will be in the shed, we've got rain and snow forecasted for next few days.. I know the blokes pretty well at HKS here and buggers keep pushing for big hp build but I'll be happy with 600ps give or take as long as its responsive and strong. Should have a list of goodies to be ordered by the weekend, wish it was in oz dollars going by the exchange rate. Definitely gunna need a new money tree after it all but you only live once. Head work so far we're looking at just a mild port and polish but cams and cam wheels definitely..any feed back on this would be appreciated..e.g head work or any other goodies.. Anyway the build begins...

I was wondering if you guys had heard anything yet. Makes you wonder why he has that many..

Cheers fellas Off to pay for the block now!! Wont be able to pick it up until after the weekend as going to the WRC Japan tomorrow thru sunday and my mates racing out at Tokachi all weekend.

Yeah I was pretty much sold on the package when I got the call today to come check out the block..I was originally gunna go the GTSS turbo way as good power and real torquey but drove a friends car at the track a few weeks back with that package Merli described and was hooked and have been weighing up stroking my block. N1 block is good deal so reckon thats the best base to work from for sure..

The blocks only going to cost me 100,000yen. Because I earn yen thats like an extra $1000 aussie to me so no probs on spending the extra 1k..

Howdy.. About to build a new engine for my gtr33 over the winter here in Japan and was after info and opinions on parts to use. I can get hold of a brand new N1 R34 block dirt cheap thru a friends tuning shop. I was looking at HKS to do the build using forged internals, probably their (Step 2) 2.8 litre kit. Ok question is ..is it worth me grabbing this fresh block or have them pull down my motor (standard) RB26 and build that up from scratch. Its just been on the dyno and is making just under 400PS on 10psi. They reckon the Step2 kit should make up to 800ps with right cams ,turbo setup. What I'm after is a strong 600ps capable street and occaisonal track engine, with the focus of it being streetable. The Step2 kit is supposed to be making 800ps at 9000rpm, just wondering what turbo setup would be sweet, I want to retain twin setup. I want to keep it around the 600ps mark and have the bottom end sorted if the power bug bites again. Originally we were going to leave bottom end as is and put GTSS turbo's, new cams 264degree IN & 264 EX. , HKS 280L/H fuel pump, HKS 600cc injectors, metal head gasket..etc and go for safe tune of a around 500ps @ 13psi but this other new N1 block came up today and I've definitely got the power bug so was after a setup for a good streetable 600ps without heaps of lag.. So after all that suppose my questions simplified are.. Use my block or go the new N1 R34 block at bargain price... (my engine was tested and compression is all real good, engine only done 60,000k's and been looked after) What turbo setup to go with, prfer HKS as get discount. What cam setup and shouls I go larger injectors. Any help or reccomendations would be greatly appreciated. Keep in mind this car will be sent back to Oz next year as personal import. Also gearbox will be getting the once over as well.. Mods so far High flow HKS cat Full HKS Cat back large bore exhaust HKS 700HPmax Intercooler FCON V PRO NISMO Copper Twin Clutch ACPT Carbon fibre one piece tailshaft (about to be installed) HKS twin Pod filters Nismo Fuel pressure regulator. Nismo Aluminium Radiator. Standard Turbo's HKS Twin Power Ignition System HKS Adjustable cam gears

Well mines supposed to be for a GTR33 95model and going on SLY's measurements mine is 835mm for the carbon and 1120mm total length.. Supposed to be 2000ft/lb shaft. At least our total lengths are the same..

Any parts worth buying in Oz... Cant see the Oz dollar coming back for awhile..Expect to see the Yen and Green back strong for awhile... I feel sorry for poor buggers from oz doing snow trips here..their cost of the accomo has nearly doubled ...

Sticker looks like its Shakken (japaneses rego sticker) expires march 2009..

These sweet for GTR33 ???

Piggaz...any pics???

Try 57.32 About time I say..time to buy some property in oz! 1.00 AUD = 57.3232 JPY Australia Dollars Japan Yen 1 AUD = 57.3232 JPY 1 JPY = 0.0174450 AUD

But Do They Fit???