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Piggaz

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Everything posted by Piggaz

  1. 3.0, BW EFR 8374, 0.92 IWG, E85.
  2. What can you do to that setup to optimise it?The stock manifolds are fine, we both use them, I believe it ran pods as it was a 32. The exhaust wasn't small. It's pretty much a no expense spared car. It was simply take the -5's off and put the EFR on. Belts it every way possible. Low end grunt, too end power, comes on earlier and back on sooner between gears. If you could do a back to back between twin EFR's and the single to see the difference, I think that would be interesting but comparing it to what realistically is dinosaur twins (-9's,-5's,2530's,RS's, the trust things) the EFR would belt the shit out of them. This car that I went in yesterday was cracking gates at 4200 on a nugget 2.6 in second gear. -9's wouldn't do that yet the 8374 would supply Atleast another 100 kw of grunt. Between gear, forget it. It was like the gates shut at all. As soon as the clutch was let back out, it was making a anti social noise again.
  3. https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtu.be&v=fPjVAVQMCcI I wouldn't call that laggy between gears.
  4. Take matty from WA's experience. Twin -5's on a 3.0 and went to a 8374/0.92 internally gate single. The EFR was back to peak boost levels in a 1/3rd of the time the twins took (Motec logs), made more power everywhere also. However, it would be interesting to compare something like the 8374 EFR to say twin 6258 EFR's.
  5. I did look into it. I rang a few places to get the spline hub replaced to suit and got a few mixed answers. I wasn't really comfortable in hacking it up so I just got the R3C with the adjustable fork and release bearing kit. That way it will just bolt right in without a fuss. I did make a thread on the pommy forum and a few guys run the R3C without issue. Good enough for tem, good enough for me. Also, the coppermix has been in the car for 10 Years this year and hasn't had a rebuild/serviced. So at the minimum I'd have to replace the friction plates and have the spline hub done. It would almost be the same as buying a new clutch anyway.
  6. Why not just do it now and not do it twice?
  7. So really, in the current state of tune the turbo has nothing left unless you want to REALLY wring it's neck. 470 odd kw ain't nothing to sneeze at though.
  8. Interesting. Do you have the shaft speed sensor on it? If so, what does it read at what boost and powah? Got a graph? Everyone likes a picture.
  9. Would you consider jumping upto the 1.05 on your 3.0?
  10. Start playing with the cams. Has it got cam gears?
  11. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385051-pro-fabrications-pfre-fabrication/page-32#entry7214274 Have a read
  12. What if they were to go between the same turbo. You have a 1.05 rear on a 8374 and wanted to try a 1.45?
  13. Does anyone know if the 1.05 rears are interchangeable with the 1.45 rears on the 8374 and 9180?
  14. Plenty. hardly ever hear of first popping.
  15. It's the Chevy spline iirc. An extra two splines and wider. That was the whole issue with the coppermix
  16. In the end I just went the OS R3C. It will all bolt up. Most guys I sent PM's too who run them over in the uk run the R3C too. Good enough for them, good enough for me.
  17. I had one. XKLABA gave me one to whack in. However, the car is sitting at my mates old mans workshop getting minor stuff like side skirts and front bar repainted. Unfortunately nothing happens there very fast (been there almost 12 months soon). It's been that long that I almost forget that I own the thing. All good... Will be back on the road soon enough.
  18. Ah yes. Don't be a noob and rip hellies. Problem solved.... Hopefully.
  19. Sure am, Pete. No farken idea why I didn't do it last time the box was out.
  20. It's a 79.3 mm stroke with 86.5 or 87 mm pistons. Not sure if Joey had to go to the next size.
  21. I'd say another 8 weeks before I'm launching up the street.
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