(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

^^Basicaly a Street Race Car. No luxury items.

I have the heater on and the window down just a little and I don't get any fog.

I like it! It add some more agression to your R34. Any chance you can fit a fmic on in the future? Hehe!!

^^LOL! Yeah man its a genuine GTR. Its even got red R34 GTR rocker covers on it so it looks even better. Going from what bluey33 said, its sound pretty good. 1990 model with 68,655 km = Driven 3814 km per year (Approx). So it done hardly any K's BUT if you get the chance to go look at the car, have a listen to it when it switched on and check EVERYTHING. Take a mechanic with you.

Watch out! I think he has a fmic.

Yep, no A/C. Does not really bother me as I never use my A/C, even in the summer, just have the windows down or drive later during the day when its not so hot.

R32 GTR - Standard (22nd May 1989) R32 GTR Nismo - Standard R32 GTR but with a Body Kit, which was designed to improve the air flow to the intercooler (2 Air vents were installed on the front bar), the engine (A Bonnet Lip Spoiler was fitted) and down force (A Boot Lip Spoiler was fitted under the standard spoiler. (22nd February 1990) R32 GTR N1 - N1 Specification Engine = Race Spec (more refined engine). The car had the ABS, A/C, Sound System, Rear Wiper and Boot Carpet were removed and light weight head lights we installed all to save weight. (19th July 1991) R32 GTR V-Spec (Victory Specification) - Standard R32 GTR with upgraded brakes to Brembos, updated ATTESA E-TS (Advanced Total Traction Engineering System for All-Terrain Electronic Torque Split) and factory 17" BBS wheels and 235/45/17 tires. (3rd February 1993) R32 GTR V-Spec II - Same as V-Spec, only with wider tyres, 245/45/17. (14th February 1994) Only good thing about the V-Spec's were its Brembo brakes, other thatn that, I read that they weighed more then the standard R32 GTR's. I would pick the N1 out of all of them due to its engine refinement. Change the colour to Black or Gun Metal Grey (As the N1's only came in a Crystal White colour), add on a Nismo body kit and Nismo LMGT 4 wheels. +1 and its the safest way to know.

LOL! Yep the good old plastic screw... As you unscrew them, you might need a very thin / fine filer or flat head screw driver to help hinge it out as your unscrewing it. See how you go.

I never heard of compressing standard springs... I suggest you just buy a set of aftermarket Coilovers (springs) to replace the standard ones you got on atm. It will lower your ride hight, give you better handling and at the same time, cause you got the standard GTR shocks, you will still have a smooth ride. Me and a friend did this to his R32 GTR and he used Tein Coilovers.

LOL! Who knows what that thing does, it looks so dodgy I wouldn't go near it. How is fuel economy increased when it tricks the ECU in thinking the car is running colder, hence need more fuel = reduced fuel economy. No such thing as Cheap Horse Power.

On that thought I agree with you. And on that note of not having to put a body kit on a car would be the R35 GTR IMO.

Yeah nice. I had a HKS twin plate before, 4000+ RPM launches Woo Hoo. Obliterates anything off the starting line. Oh yeah the twin plates are either In or Out not much play, you get use to it. Do you get a 'Rattling' / 'tearing' noise when you have push the clutch pedal down (disengaging the cltuch)?

I sugget a HKS Boost gauge as I have one and it functions great. Can I suggest an Air Pod, if not upgrade your Panel Filter... HKS or K&N APexi Power FC's are popular on SAU for the computer management side of things I have Cusco Suspension in my R32, bloody hard but handling is nice on a smooth road. Teins are quite good too. I try and stick to the standard BOV unitll it cannot handle the boost pressure anymore. All depends on how much power you want to achieve will determin how far you will have to push the modifcations. I think you probley get a better answer on NissanSilvia.com, don't ya think LOL!

You could install a Floor Brace (Middle of the car) and a Rear Strut Brace in the boot... Save weight by getting a Carbon fibre boot lid (not sure if its legal but you can paint it the same colour as the car so ppl can't tell) re-adjust your camber... How wide are your tyres? Maybe go a little wider... Brake upgrade...

Abu is diagnosed with a 'Condition' to MODIFY a car till it cannot be modded anymore LOL! Congrats on the new car buddy. What you on about? R32 = True Godzilla Haha! It's All good.

Number 3 FTW!

RE Customs and Race Pace are highly recommended on SAU.

Nice pic there 75coupe. Maybe its just the lighting but it doesnt look all that Millenium Jade LOL! Johnbarry88 I think it will look quite unique if your R33 is painted in this colour. I think you might be one of the first. Here is another pic and the paint code is JW0 - Millennium Jade.

One of the best games Im still playing atm and finished it a number of times.

These ppl are the Authorised Dealers in AUS as listed in the C West Japan Website. EVO Motorsport PTY LTD 96 Newcastle Street, Fyshwick ACT 2913, Australia Tel: 02 6228 1222 Fax: 02 6280 9050 email: [email protected] Trading Hours: Mon - Fri 8:30am - 5:00pm Sat: 9:00am - 4:00pm

Aftermarket BOV do shit all. Its just for noise, unless for racing applications when running high boost and the stock one cannot handle the pressure anymore. I suggest you remove the aftermarket one and keep the standard one. Also you have a Pod filter installed, it should give you the "Choo" noise, which sounds a lot better. Cool! BTW it don't cost anything to tidy up the engine bay, just wipe everything down with a damp cloth...

My friend gtrzilla had his R32 GTR dyno'd and hit about 155kW at All 4 Wheels. His car was stock, down to even a compliance cat in the exhaust. I think for the R32 GTR, at the Rear Wheels, its around 187 kW. As you know you lose power through the drivetrain and every dyno is different. There has been talk about the car being restricted from the factory release. Apparently the car was restricted by its exhaust system, then there was a electronic boost restricter and the ECU... I read, the boost restricter was marked in Yellow and if you remove the restricter, it would increase the power out put to 230 kW. I do not heaverly believe this, as I have no solid evidance to prove this true. The information was only on website.

Interesting... What type of fuel you put in (should not make a diffence tho...) Is your fuel gauge playing up..? Car had a service yet? Best bet is to get your mechanic to check it all out. Get your mechanic run through what we all have told you about in the this thread and see how you go. So get them to check the O2 Sensor, (Fix if faulty) Use a can of fuel injector cleaner Clean you AFM Change your Fuel Filter Check Tyre Pressure Check out your ECU Check out for an leaks in the lines, BOV and intercooler Check you fuel injectors (make sure no leaks) And get him to do what sandeep said. Thats all I can think of at the moment so take it to him and let us know how you go. Cool!

On the front passenger left side, there is a kick pannel. (Below the glove box, to the left), where you red flare sits, unscrew that pannel and the ECU is behind it. Take a look to see if it is standard or aftermarket. I don't thing 12 psi standard for a GTS-T..? R33 GTS-T's came out with about 184 kW. If you are putting out 206 rear wheel kW's, I suspect there is a boost controller you are running. Which means, higher boost = need more fuel to run... And / Or modded / tuned ECU... (Speculations Only)

As what sandeep said, the O2 sensor is usuall the problem. Besides changing that, as momo said, try cleaning your AFM (Air Flow Metres). So in order to isolate the problem, Check the O2 Sensor (Fix if faulty) Use a can of fuel injector cleaner Clean you AFM Change your Fuel Filter Check Tyre Pressure Only other thing I can think that is making your car use more pertol is your ECU. It might be an aftermarket one or one that can be modified... BUT I don't think so in your case as I believe your car is stock with only an exhaust system and a Front mount intercooler. BTW you are running 12 Psi of boost... Is that the stock boost pressure for a R33 GTS4? Probley in some cases. For example if your intercooler has a leak then it may cause the car to run lean as there is more air going in to the inlet plenum.