KiwiRS4T

I don't know how your 2wd differs from my awd formerly auto but if I were you I would bolt them on and modify the guards to suit (not put too small tyres on). I started off with a guard roller but found a length of iron pipe worked best. You will lose paint in the process - I don't think the heat gun approach prevents that. Mine are 17 x 9 +30 with a 20mm spacer on the front.

I think you will need some kind of tuneability - Nistune, PFC or Link etc.

Ticking sound could be leaking turbo gasket.

If your boost gauge is accurate that's just under 7 psi which sounds pretty stock - up to 500 mmHg should be fine. I don't think disconnecting (or removing) the factory solenoid should do anything. Try opening up the plug gap to at least 0.8mm to get a fatter spark. Also clean afm (or ideally swap out with known good one) and check plug/wiring. If the car has been sitting around for a while could be the fuel system. Try changing the filter in the engine bay - cut it open to see if its full of cr*p. Maybe also pull out the fuel pump and clean the sock at the bottom [just noticed you put in a new pump so I guess that's covered] and look inside the tank for excessive sediment. If you can swap out the injectors that would be good or consider getting them cleaned. Put your location up on your profile then people can suggest a good workshop or tuner!

Get your alternator tested?

You need to be a bit more specific than "misbehaving". Do you have a boost gauge? Is it meant to be a stock RB25DET? Its not hard to get down to 16L/100km if you boost it a lot. 0.6 plug gap is a bit extreme - usually 0.8 is enough to help compensate for dud coils and yet you say it has new Splitfires - I would gap the plugs at 1.0 in a stock engine. This pic shows a Stagea RB25DET with the solenoid bypassed. The stock solenoid can be seen below the power steering fluid reservoir. The stock hoses run from the boost source to the solenoid and from the solenoid to a T where one line goes to the bov return line and the other to the actuator. There is a restrictor in the standard set up - can't remember exeactly where. If you haven't got a stock solenoid you can just plumb it as per the picture and regulate boost by varying the size of a restrictor in the bleed line off the T that goes to the bov return pipe (by filling and drilling that branch of the T or using different sized welding tips or I have even used a needle valve on that hose).

RB26 comes with better head - would have liked one for my RB30 but no budget for that! Also the 26 intake plenum points straighter so doesn't impinge on the battery space as much as the Greddy type. As Duncan says I can highly recommend the RB30 route - so much low down torque - but its a bit of a major compared to a few bolt ons.

If you have rebuilt your engine with new bearings etc and your oil pressure is good then your 10-30 Mobil 1 seems fine for you.

OP could help by stating what revs he is reaching. When my S1 Stagea RB25DET was stock it maxed out at 7100.

Neo motor? ID1000s would go well. If you get the right supplier they should be able to supply straight drop in for your top feed rail set up.

It really depends on your goals but mostly doing up the RB25 will be easier and cheaper. Just to take the RB26 first - a fellow Aucklander bought a GTR half cut for his Skyline and ended up having to put a new crankshaft in it. Even without that an RB26 half cut is not that cheap and you will need to pay for other bits and pieces as well as some labour (depending on how much you do yourself). And how many GTRs are just driven to church on Sundays by an old lady? An unopened RB25 in good nick with a good tune can run at up to 300awkw for years if treated right. 260 - 280kw is really quite fast and easily acheivable with either a GT3076 or a Hyperdrive turbo, good front mount, Z32 afm, 3in turbo back exhaust and better injectors. A new fuel pump would be wise but stock bov, fpr, manifolds should be fine. For ecu a Link would be ideal but a Z32 ecu with a Nistune chip would do fine (with a manual box). A set of GTT brakes with decent pads and brakefluid won't set you back too much.

You're going to be spending a fair bit of money so you'll want to get it right first time. I would suggest it worth your while to have a good read of this thread: http://www.skylinesa...s-engine-build/ My only quick suggestion is that for 375rwkw you will want something better than the stock exhaust manifold e.g. a 6 boost or a Sinco customs one: http://www.sincocust...20Fabrication/2 http://www.6boost.com/ Also have a read of the thread at the top of this page: dyno results for RB25 upgrades http://www.skylinesa...l-dyno-results/ Guys in NZ are getting good results with Holset turbos but I don't know the capabilities of the one you are proposing to use - what is its mamimum output? And is the fuel pump brand new? I would want a new pump such as a Denso at least.I would prefer a more modern ecu such as a Link but if you already have the PFC it will be fine.

Possibly the simplest and best would be to get a new WGNC34 specific Nismo LSD unit. Most Stagea diffs are 4.083:1 and you must end up with the same front and rear. Some are 4.111:1 which as a matter of fact is less than 1% different from the 4.083 so may be compatible. Skyline diffs are mainly either of those or 4.363:1 You may be able to just swap out the mechanical LSD and put your own crownwheel and pinion back. The full list is here: http://www.nismo.co....f/lsd_price.pdf The next problem is axle compatibility. Stageas have the bolts arranged in three pairs (3x2). Most Skylines are 5x1 but GTRs are 6 x 1 You can change the whole rear end as I did but you probably have to change the abs sensors and find somewhere to hang the atessa pump as Skylines do it differently from Stageas. I did it because I wanted the GTR LSD and also the GTR axles (for greater strength for the extra torque from my RB30. If you just want a good mechanical LSD a new Nismo unit (if they still sell the WGNC34 specific item) may well be cost effective.

Almost certainly exactly the same box. Try FAST to confirm.

Hmm not sure I understand all that but here's another question - I read somewhere else about someone testing their brakes with a brake bias meter of some sort - can a 4wd dyno give you this information? And is brake bias on our cars a constant regardless of speed, braking effort etc ( I have seen some cars have a proportioning valve which changes the bias according to the weight in the rear of the vehicle).

Even in your car's present state it will be worth it to get a Z32 afm with nistune chip. You will get more power it will run better and probably last longer and when you sell the car you can always sell the Nistune ecu and its only cost you the price of tuning which is a good investment. SAFC will give slight improvement but nowhere as good as a proper tune.

Apart from the awd sump part the rest is basically R33 - the actuator may be different and the ecu and loom are definitley different but manifolds, downpipes, waterpump etxc etc should all be R33. Importantly it will have VCT so you need to use a suitable ecu or switch.OK see you have pfc so you should be fine.

Or someone has fitted an HKS speed limit defeater thing - have you checked for an aftermarket ecu?

Never seen a S2 260RS over here. Did it come without the rear spoiler or did you take it off? Wheels suit the car - what are they?

Piece of 1/2 in pipe?

Im not trying to save dollars as I already have all the gear - my question was do people fit a non-return valve to their oil cooler and/or filter relocation kits? And on the question of running a thermostat - the theory is that you use a grade of oil that is suitable for the 95% of the time that a mainly street car like mine is doing daily duties but the thermostat opens the cooler when hammering it on the track - very little to do with ambient temps.

I have been running my C34 on E10 for years. It is tuned for it. I don't know if you will see any benefit if you don't have any means of tuning your car although it may clean up the fuel system. Tip: after running on E10 for 1000km or so change your fuel filter(s) as any gunk in the tank may have been liberated! I am keen to change to E85 but its not readily available at the pumps and I'm not prepared to buy it by the drum as I could be stranded when away from home.

205s are legal but 215 or 225 would be better. The ones you are considering will look a little small in your wheel arches but if you are getting them cheap and you are happy no problem. You will be a little undergeared and your speedo might read a bit higher than your actual speed but not a problem if you know about it.

I have all the gear - sandwich plate, relocating plate. thermostat, cooler - no one has mentioned a non-return valve. Do people use these? If your components are all above the level of the sandwich plate I presume all the oil (except that in the cooler depending on its orientation) will drain back to the sump when the motor is switched off. Is this not an issue?

How long had it been installed and clogged with what? Getting worried about mine now.