KiwiRS4T

Honestly you are wasting your time with the SAFC. Will your auto still be ok with the Z32 ecu? If so get the Nistune and learn to tune on that . If not you will need an E-Mangage or an F-Con - some kind of piggy-back with a little more control than the SAFC.

Put a new set of copper plugs in your car NGK BCPR6ES gapped down to 0.8mm. While you have your coils out inspect them carefully for signs of shorting and anyway spray them with some insulating stuff. All RBs run rich from stock. Look at getting a Nistune chip to make your car fully tuneable and it will go better (more power, more smooothly) all round and will eliminate the Rich and Retard if that is what you are experiencing. (and yes, get rid of your pod and get a high flow filter for your stock airbox!)

I have an R33 GTR gearbox in my car but its awd. You would be better off to look for a 2wd box without the transfer case.

Sorry sold it a while back. Here's one on ebay: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/eBay-Motors-/6000/i.html?_nkw=apexi+SITC&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_rdc=1 but for your set up (R33, auto) I would recommend an E-manage.

I had a SAFC and a SITC making around 180awkw. It worked but that's all. Better would be Nistune but no-one in Wellington seems to want to tune it which is a pity, I strongly advise you save the money from the wideband and get a Link ecu.

Do not attempt to drive it with the stock ecu. You will need a Nistune chip or other custom made tuned in the car chip or better still bite the bullet and get a Link.You will probably max out the afm so you will need a Z32 afm (unless you get the Link).And change your wastegate setup to be nearer to your target boost. Stock injectors may limit your power.

Are you saying the original T did not have any hoses running to the factory solenoid? Then yes this is a way to set the boost without refrence to your ecu. It is perfectly ok - what boost were you reading? No idea how your HKS ebc is connected but if it is electronic I shouldn't think it would work very well with no power applied to it. There is no reason to suppose your actuator is faulty. I am not clear what problem you are having except that you haven't connected your ebc correctly.

Here is a diagram for my Earls thermostat:

My engine is stock (not forged or even new pistons) so I will be happy with anything over 300awkw and will post up the results in a month or so (out of money at present!) but here are the figures from Shred Performance Wellington who dynoed the same car with both configurations: 3540 .63 14psi 300kw 18 psi 350kw with .82 14 psi 330kw 18 psi 375 kw (could have made more - can't remember the reason for stopping at 375).

I have a spare unreconditioned driveshaft. Not really looking to sell it - was just going to get it recond at my leisure but if anyone is stuck for one you could have it for $150 posted.

Go the 30/25 for more low down torque and midrange power for pulling out of the corners. If you want 300 - 330 kw get the GT3076 or if more the 3540. I have a GT3540 with the .63 AR just on the road making 225awkw at 8psi will be retuning to 18 -21 psi . Pulls really well now and is limited to 6500.

No and Yes. They are designed to be not serviceable - i.e. there are no circlips to enable you to the joints apart - but in fact a driveshaft specialist can machine them open, replace the joints and balance them. You will have to ring around to find someone to do this or another member may be able to tell you where it can be done. All front drive shafts are the same - Stagea, GTS4 and GTR. If you decide to buy a new one please post up the price although I suspect it will be considerable!

I have an HKS SSQV blow off valve model G176 I need the plumb back adapter that came with some of these kits. If you want you can have the "triple fin discharge port" that I took out of it or happy to pay for the plumb back adapter plus postage to Auckland New Zealand. Thanks [email protected]

Power steeering is Nissan specially expensive power steering fluid but most people just use the same atf as their auto (but quality synthetic atf preferable). Get a 20L drum and you can use it for your power steering, auto and attessa. Diff 75W 140 GL5 about 2L

Unbelievable!

Yes you are! Just got my car on the road again pleased with the power from the RB30 but forgotten how the suspension is geared towards speed rather than comfort. Have been getting used to the Auto Camry that I bought to go to work in while my car was being built! Its OK though I will do some racing - club stuff etc and go to the drags just to establish some times and keep the Camry to hack around town in. Then in a few years if I don't smash up my Stagea I will reconfigure it to make it more streetable while still reasonably rapid.

I am sure such a system is in use in one or more cars somewhere but don't have time to look it up. You effectively don't need a gearbox because of the massive instant torque of an electric motor.

Don't see why not.

For a start I don't have one and I would have to get the computer and a set of abs rings for the front different sensors etc. not to mention wiring . Was just a small job to swap the rings at the back.

I have the GTR diff (for the LSD) and 6 x 1 GTR axles (because they are thicker and stronger than the 5 x1 or 3 x 2 Stagea ones) but kept the stock hubs so I could keep my Bilsteins but you may as well change the lot since you want the fork type. I have a theory that the 4.083 Stagea front diff would be within tolerance of the GTR 4.111 diff as far as the Atessa is concerned ( although I have 2 GTR diffs myself because they were readily available). The difference according to my calulator is about 0.7% which is probably less than some tyre wear would produce. Joe Kyle who did the job also put the Stagea abs rings back on because they were different from the GTR ones.

R34 has a map sensor on the firewall so leak from boost guage could have triggered fault code. Have you reset ecu and cleared fault?

+1 for a replacement stocker

I have driven a few hundred km with the front drive shaft out. On the S1 you go to the fusebox in the engine bay and there is a square green fuse for the awd - pull that out - your awd warning light should come on - that's as it should be.

Fpr still ok at 420kw unless its faulty