KiwiRS4T

Mike MV Automatics 3/1 Stirling Rd Blackwood SA 5051 (08) 83700430 [email protected]

Auto shifter sold Both rear doors now without power window mechanisms... $40ea

Are you doing the cambelt while you've got it apart? Cheap kit here (from trustworthy supplier): http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=297165554

Get another tuner! Nistune will tune your engine fine. When you say bombed out on emissions test what was the problem? Do you have any numbers, readout? Did you replace the cat convertor? With an almost standard car its ridiculous to be telling you that you need a Microtech.

You can run without the front driveshaft it won't pour oil out.

It would seem RB20 and RB30 are the same but different from RB25DET. Some aftermarket pumps have a slot so that they will fit either. Some people just ignore the hole that is wrong and leave that bolt out. If you are able the best bet would be to change the pump for the correct one. If you can't return the pump you could just elongate that hole til the bolt fits and use plenty of sealer!

If it ain't broke don't fix it doesn't apply to old fuel pumps. If it leans out or fails at high revs bang goes your motor. There is a Walbro with the skyline fitting kit: http://www.nzperformance.co.nz/store/walbr...mp/prod_80.html or the Bosch 040 in tank.

The shell and most major mechanical items have gone so only the parts listed are still for sale. Was a silver S1 Stagea but most parts left are common to S2 as well. Selling my house soon so all have to go. Most of these items except for the doors and spare wheel can be posted to you at your expense: Rear doors in excellent cond c/w cards, switches, electric windows.. Right rear $60 Left rear $50 (no window motor) Ashtray $15 Lighter plug $10 Clock $20 Auto gear shifter $30 Head Rest $10 Centre Console $50 Space saver spare wheel $20 fuse boxes $15 Plate between boot floor & bumper $10 Fuel filler flap $10 RH Rear cnr tail light $30 Fibre spare wheel cover $10 ABS unit $30 Stock front castor rods $15 ea Speedo drive $20 Front sway bar $20

If you google the full and correct title you will get better results (can the supplier not help you?). Looking at a picture there are two square buttons, a round knob and an LED display. Using only my powers of deduction (!!!) I would guess that one square button turns the unit on and the other square button returns the car to the control of the Attessa computer. Turning the round knob should produce numbers on the LED display ranging fom 0 to 50 indicating that you are locking in that percentage of drive to the front wheels. Have a play and see if I am right - (I am just guesing here!)

Stock turbo is ball bearing. They can be rebuilt with ball bearing or journal (bush) bearings.

"normally just go round in RWD"???!!!AWD is always on unless you have removed the front driveshaft and pulled the fuse. The Attessa computer allocates drive according to need - normally 95% rear but up to 50/50 according to the conditions. Steering is not affected. If you think it gets notchy when you turn the synchro button on that's because the synchro button locks it into 50/50 mode for pulling the car out of a wet paddock etc. That is not the "4wd" button.

What is it? A replacement stand alone ecu like a pfc or a standard ecu with a daughterboard and tunable chip? Straight plug in or wire in? Sounds exciting!

Great job Darrin! ! Nice car Samkoek - what is the bodykit (esp the front bar)?

I believe the stock C34 will not be as quick as a Legnum - its bigger and heavier. My first Stagea was a n/a neo 2wd - a nice car but my current awd is so much better in the twisty/wet conditions - the Atessa distributes power front to rear according to need and with a little more (or a lot more) horsepower you really appreciate the way it gets the power down.

Made that power with the GCG turbo at 1 bar with 550 injectors and a Z32 afm. Forgot to see if you have replaced your fuel pump but if not you need a Walbro or Bosch 044 in tank preferably wired for full battery voltage. That should give you 210 -220 without the new injectors/afm. BTW GCG offer a (small) discount to SAU members if you think to ask for it.Currently I have all the stuff in my sig at the bottom of the post but waiting for my Rb30 to be built. (Currently driving a $500 Diamante)! Hopefully can report back in 2 or 3 weeks.

How long are you planning to keep the car? How fast do you want to go? If you are paying for the removal and replacement of the turbo then a hypergear rebuild will be within your budget and should deliver up to 220awkw with the stock injectors and afm. I have no personal experience with Hypergear but their reputation is growing. If you are going to remove and replace it yourself you can afford a GCG rebuild - same power output with your current set up but with ball bearing centre. I have had one of these and it took me to 245awkw with bigger injectors and afm. Straight replacement with no installation problems. If you are going to keep the car forever and want big power down the track get a GT3076. It can be tuned for up to 220awkw with what you have now and has potential for 300kw. But you will need another grand to make it happen. There are a number of other new turbos or turbo rebuilders that members might recommend. Then there are the cheap Chinese copies which in my view are too much of a lottery!

Don't know - hasn't hit the road yet. It is a budget build so will be limited to 6,800 rev/min. It is going in an 1800kg wagon and I am fitting R34 GTR diffs 3.545:1 so early response bit of a priority. I should think it will make 300kw+ ok but after that I don't know

Not clear why you want to sell it. In NZ a stock S1 RS4T is worth about $5k. My S1 after spending about $15 - 20K on it would sell for about $8k so there's no way I am ever going to sell it! All your car needs is an RB30 bottom end and a manual box or a hugely beefed up auto (oh and possibly a GTR rear end)!

Interested to see how it goes. You shouldn't have any trouble making 450hp. I have a GT3540 .63 ar - was going for the .86 but was peruaded to go for the super response since its going in a heavy Stagea and I'm putting in some tall gearing. You will have the top end but will be interested to see your power curve and how it feels accelerating.

Black soot would indicate a hotter plug is needed but you might not need to change the plug if gapping it down does the trick.

Rears only in Teins are:Tein R - SIN79-010382 HCC Fronts are: Tein F-SIN78-010311 HCC

If you have dodgy coils try gapping your plugs down to 0.8 til you get new ones. Could possibly explain why they are so black (don't all RBs run rich from stock?) or if you're keen try some NGKBCPR5ES

Yes you are wrong - as above - the boost is adjusted with a hand controller against the duty cycle of the injectors (not the rpm - big difference) . Input = injector cycle, output = solenoid cycle.It is possible to get rock solid 16psi for example. It does not have facility for automatic temperature adjustment but you could manually adjust the boost settings at the track to suit the ambient temps. It is possible to adjust speed of boost build.

Well its not going to be your O2 sensor because that has stuff all to do with the afrs at the top end. Have you at least got your Walbro wired for full voltage? Stick a fuel pressure guage in after the fpr and see what it reads at high revs next time you're on a dyno. (My tuner uses two O2 sensors - one in an extra boss on the downpipe and one in the tail pipe).

If you can build the Jaycar kit they are value for money (can sometimes pick them up second hand). You can adjust boost against injector cycle (not revs) and put in 2 switchable maps (don't know why people want 2 maps). Only got rid of mine because of change to Link and sep w/g ( Link will control boost).