djr81

http://www.tristatebattery.com/product_inf...products_id=982 I got a 365 CCA Deka. Works fine. It is an ETX30L. AFAIK Braille are rebadged Dekas..... Caveat: Be a little bit careful when looking at cranking capacity for dry cell batteries. Some of them quote their output in different units which can be misleading.

Measure the inside diameter of the rim - that will give you an indication of clearance - then check for spoke to calliper clearance. How big a brake set up you can run depends on the rim, the rotor & the calliper so it is not an easy question to answer. Obviously the BBS rims will clear the Brembo stuff fitted to the V-Spec 32's with a 324 rotor. DBA4000 series rotors are nothing special, other than the fact they have a whole thread dedicated to them. It is a good read.... DBA do not make 5000 series rotors for R32's, you will have to import something if you want aluminium hats. Heat dissipation is reliant on the amount of air pumped through the rotor. Designed just using pillars move less air than those with proper vanes. The more vanes the more air is moved, but the heavier the rotor ends up. Slots help a little with pedal feel when you are trying hard as they help de gas the pad. Make sure your rotors are of sufficient thickness, not gouged or warped & then just use them till they die. As was first said get yourself a brace for the master cylinder, maybe some braided lines for the fron callipers, some good fluid & some pads. The brakes will feel alot better for it. Oh and make sure they are bled properly.

Brake shoes - try project mu. racer industries local, usual suspects on import.

To whom did you send your enquiry? 345*32 - for the Evos. No idea what the hat offset is, however. http://www.project-mu.co.jp/e/product/caliper_R6.html

Not sure if it helps but Project Mu do aftermarket sizes. 355 * 32 among them.

Yes please, want want.

As long as the piston area of the new calipers is similar to those of your current set up the ABS will cope. The 4wd system doesn't care. If you use your car on the track (Properly) chances are you will crack the discs at some stage. Best bet is to select rotors to avoid this problem as much as possible. If you don't then there is no point spending large on brakes. Look for the thread on this very issue and get busy with the paper & scissors. Ask questions of the vendor. Then you will get the usual blandishments that are completely meaningless. They all say they work beautifully but recommend all sorts of different rotor diameters & piston areas. Make of that what you will. The booster uses vacuum to reduce pedal effort. By lines I assume you mean braided hoses. These swell less when you brake hard than old rubber alternatives hence less pedal travel is wasted.

My battery charger won't charge a completely flat dry cell. It just sees an open circuit & shuts down. So I just borrow the neighbours skanky old one which isn't clever enough to care. Works fine.

Ah, um, sorry. Me neither. Saturdays at work suck too. There was a good story from the VK Commodores at Spa in 1986. There is a book about it - Brock Moffat on the road to Spa.

I would disagree with that to an extent. Basically whetever is remaining of the road cars in the V8 is there merely to make them look a little bit like what you can buy down the dealership. For instance the road car chassis not longer has any load bearing contribution - it is rivetted to the spaceframe rather than welded. Both the FG & the VE have different wheelbases & trackwidths than the road cars. The front quarter panels are fibreglass & not even close to the factory dimensions, rear door skins on the Commodores are now fibreglass too. The suspension (paticularly the rear, live axle) was originally included because the VP & EB Falcons had live axles but mostly because they were cheap. Struts were used in the Commodores front ends, wishbones in the Falcons. Obviously now both front & rear V8 suspension packages bear no resemblance to anything leaving the factory. My point is that is obviously difficult to drive the V8's well. You can see this by how many people struggle when they get into the series proper & by how many mistakes the development series drivers routinely make. I don't think that the difficulties are derived from the road cars - there isn't enough of them left to matter. I think it is a result of the regulations. I would reckon any Group A car is by definition, more compromised by its factory origins than a V8.

Just get a dry cell battery, a box & install it in the boot. The good things about doing this are: Moves weight tot he rear. Frees up room under the bonnet ( I relocated the carbon canister for more air to the filters) Bad thing is if you need to carry stuff you have alot less room.

Heal & toe. Sort of. It will stop the diff locking on clutch release, but probably not as the engine drops revs by itself. Nismo do upgrade kits for the stock diffs as well as the stuff listed so far. There is another thread not dissimilar to this one which is worth looking through.

The two way will lock when you have torque transmitted via the engine on the over run, ie when the motor is slowing the car down. This commonly occurs on corner entry and yes it makes the back end reluctant to turn = push understeer. Check the Nismo site as the TT version for the GT-R's is only a new addition. Rather than just believe the website send them (Or another of the importers...) an email to check. They should be readilly available in Australia. The difference in the two versions is basically the ramp angle. TT Pro is more gentle and is better if you want to use it on the road. Don't use a 2 way on the street.

Closest I found was this. It is from an R34 so they do fit, but it was done in Japan & the bloke concerned obviously couldn't say how much messing around it required. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Eo...;hl=rockhampton

No a 2 way is not for dragging. Which is not to say you can't succesfully use one. You need to understand what the 1 way, 2 way means. Best off doing a search, but roughly they work as follows. Basically they are mechanical limited slip differential where the engine torque helps clamp the friction plates in the diff. A one way only does so under acceleration. A two way acts under acceleration but also on the over run. Hence it is useless for drag racing. A one & a half way is supposedly in between but in reality the ramp angles on the over run on the Nismo diff are square so it is a bit of marketing bullshit. Remember that the pre-load gives you an LSD function without any engine torque. The more aggressive of the Nismo LSDs are a nasty thing on the road. You cannot gently turn a corner with any engine torque without the diff locking/clunking. Look to the pro lsd tt version if you use the thing on the road.

The 1.5 way diff isn't really a 1.5 way, but anyway. You wont need a 2 way for a hill climb, in fact you would be better off without it. As for track work a 1.5 is better anyway. Remember the Nismo diffs have adjustable presets. Check the nismo website www.nismo.co.jp

Engine failure is not uncommon on GT-R's. For $10k it may well be worth looking at.

This proves my suspicion that, oh you work it out for yourselves.... http://www.carcentral.com.au/20080506589/m...-indy-2005.html

Went to Albany on the weekend...

Do you have the manual. If so it will have a procedure. If not say so & someone will dredge the relevant bits up.

The are rear sway bar links that won't fit a standard Nissan swaybar. Reason being the Whiteline ones have the bottom locating bolt horizontal, NIssan have it vertical. Having said that if you can't return them for any reason let me know as I would be interested in buying them.

For the record, this is the approved method.

The colour scheme is a rip off of the one Nissan ran in 1991.

As had been suggested a number of times the list of things to do are: Don't use DBA 4000 series rotors, find something else. I would suggest Project Mu as they are getting more & more competitive on price. A decent pad is a Ferodo DS2500. Get them from a proper brake shop & not somewhere like Repco who will just fk you about and confuse themselves. There are a number of other pads sabout which may suit you. Front set is $300 approx. Get some new fluid. Motul RBF 660 is good/cheap(ish). Braided lines will help wil pedal feel but aren't strictly necessary. Make sure you get ADR compliant ones. What will help is a master cylinder stopper. Cusco do a nice one. Lastly the Brembo callipers fitted to Skyline are poverty pack rubbish & in no way worth the kinds of money people ask for them. That is by way of general comment.

If you are going to bother bringing something back then make it something that was never sold here. Eg anything with Cosworth in the name, a Lancia Delta Integrale, an early BMW M3 (LHD so not sure if you can rego them outside WA) Don't bother with common or garden variety stuff.