djr81

Cant remember if I posted this, but anyway, here it is again. 1160_001.pdf

I think nearly everyone will be - if only because I can now stop sulking about it. Possibly to probably. Certainly the original engine had far too much blowby which is usually an assembly issue and given the workshop who built it specced it, installed it, fired it up and ran it in - if it wasnt an assembly issue then it is/was still their issue. By the time I got to confirming how it was all done I was so far over talking the said workshop and generally dealing with their &^%$ I never did ask. For what it is worth having spoken to a number of other engine builders and to Pacific Engine Parts themselves the CRC + drive it on start up (ie dont let it sit at idle) is the way I would be doing all engines in the future. Also for wha it is worth I rechecked on the oil return diameters in the old block. They are 8mm which is slightly larger than the head. The head got drilled to match the block - which is porbably a mm or so smaller than most people do. Anyway those five returns probably add up to well under half of the total return area.

You get more traction with a more compliant rear spring rate. However it doesnt help you because you cant accelerate the car if you cant turn the corner in the first place. Plus with an attessa modifier gizmo you can put more torque forward and fix the problem anyway.

Well back in the day (Mid eigthies) they had fuel limits with no boost or fuel flow limits. Which made Sunday nice and safe but less so on Friday/Saturday when it was basically a free for all. Not sure how they cap horsepower now (by limiting boost) but a fuel flow limit does that in no uncertain terms.

Australia Post.

You do it to reduce understeer.

Do you mean by push understeer it pushed when you put the power down? If so the change is due to the stiffer spring rates and the smaller amount of weight transference under power.

Honestly, no I dont any more. I did fixate on it for quite a while but the gaps in the piston rings I have arent at the low end of what people use and they work fine. I reckon its a combination of the Pacific Engine Parts rings and the CRC bore lube on start up followed by driving the thing immediately on engine start. As for the drain, yes I pissed it off. Used the return in the sump as an extra vent for the blowby. Probably doesnt make a huge difference if your blowby is under control. Probably helps if it isnt.

The project mu open ended ones any good? They go on with a 17mm socket.

IMHO no. There are different causes of understeer/oversteer, not all of which can be tuned out by adjusting front to rear roll stiffness/weight transfer. Question: What are the coils spring rates? Also - are you trail braking into corners? In anycase you should match your sway bars to your spring rates. Soft arb's and stiff springs are not a nice combination. For what it is worth my heap of sht has turn in oversteer in the wet but not in the dry. Why? Because of the massive rear anti roll stiffness needed to reduce understeer in the dry. But also it has no grip in the wet because of the camber it runs - which is matched to a dry track. The whole of the answer is you need to address the lack of anti roll stiffness then your camber settings. In that order.

Well there is your problem. Start with some decent anti roll and you will find the cars transient behaviour will improve and that you can balancing the thing up better.

Nah they wont get them changed. Says in the rules that the FIA are the final arbiter of the fuel flow measurements/calculations. There is no way they will allow the teams to decide how much fluel they can flow.

What sort of sway bars do you have - stock ones?

Went to Collie on the weekend. For those who arent from WA it is a small country circuit which takes 50 seconds to get around. It is anticlockwise and if your engine is having oiling problems then Collie will show them up. Anyway the bottom line is there was no more than three drops out of the breather all day. So I am claiming victory and moving on. Need to find a workshop now to sort the boost controller.

Good work. I only went through one set but I did manage to crack both of them. Winning.

No to the exhaust manifolds (between the engine and the turbo) Yes to the dumps. Why 7's & not 9's?

Sweet. Good work.

You can, if you ask Tomei nicely, get them to supply you with a number of different cams - you dont have to go typeA/B/R. Eg the exhaust on a type A is 252 degrees that on a B 260. But you can (Or could) order up a 256 degree cam if you wanted. Anyway with E85 you would lean toward a type B - but again it all depends on how much you want to grind out of the thing and how much low end losses you are prepared to live with. I once had type B's with -5s (albeit on petrol) and as a hillclimber they sucked balls. You cant get out of the slower chicanes as the thing takes forever to get on boost. Type A exhaust cam and a slightly smaller inlet cam made a good difference (Like near on 40 hp at 4000rpm) without killing the top end but again petrol and E85 are different things.

Back in the eighties they used to have the same issues with the boost limiters (bovs basically if i remember correctly) they used to limit the turbo motors. FIA stuff was not up to scratch and the teams quickly figured out how to game them anyway.

Rebuilds, mostly.

Yeah you have to laugh at the mainstream medias attemps to explain what the hell it was he got pinged for. Hopeless. Still brilliant effort by Dan none the less. He just needs to repeat it in a couple weeks and he is on his way to crushing Tool.* Also good effort by Magnussen. Pretty young looking podium, all up. *May have gone a bit early with that prediction.

The rear drains are dead easy as the casting is narrow at the top off the block. The other oil returns less so. Lots of posts in the thread just talk about the head, not the block. But you are right re-reading the original post it references the block too.

I didnt say that. If you look at the early thread it has always been drill out the head. No mention of the block. More recently it has become head and occasionally, block. No one is saying just drill the block. Unless I havent been paying sufficient attention there is a change there somewhere? Just trying to get clarity for people.

There are two things going on here. The most common way of setting up a catch can is to vent the blowby to atmosphere. The oil in the catch can itself goes back to the sump or you collect it and drain it later. The post in Iruvyouskylines post, however, shows as point 5, the blowby gases returning to the motor the way Nissan intended. Which may well be more emissions compliant friendly. If you go with the second option and the oil is not under control you can get fouled afm's from oil in the blowby. I have had this on a motor with blowby and a Nismo "catch can". No one is discussing sending the blowby gases back to the sump (which couldnt work anyway), just the oil in the catch can.

Jenson P1 late in the session? Where the hell did that come from???? Anyway Alonso has beaten that and the Williams is in P3. Go Massa you Brazilian god. Always been a fan. No, really. Dan the Man p4 at the moment.