djr81

Really? I thought people only used those pads because they were cheap. Guess I was wrong and need to find another reason why people would want to use them.

Why do you want it to happen. Where do you expect Williams to get money from in his absence?

Solution appears to be pretty obvious. Use a different brake pad.

You want a rough surface for the paint to stick to. It mechanically adheres to the concrete it doesnt react with it. So clean it, degrease it and etch it with either the proper etching stuff or if you know what you are doing and are careful (fkn careful) acid.

You can run whatever hat/rotor combination you like but Troys point is that the replacement cost of the rotor (or hat and rotor) is one of the big considerations in its selection. By using a part from a certain vehicle (eg R35) you are getting a component that will be made by a number of different manufacturers which will help keep the price down. Eg Project Mu 324x30 hatted rotor is thereabout of a grand. The 345x32 is double that. The other cost consideration is the price of a pad. same story there. Buy an orphan pattern and you will get screwed every time you need pads. Yes a dogbone and a radial mount are, essentially the same thing. A radial mount uses bolts that align radially to bolt up the calliper, a dogbone has locating bolts at 90 degrees to that - hence the same as it looks a bit like a dogbone. You need to find a machine shop and give them some drawings. I have tried and utterly failed to find someone for this sort of thing. But this is a one off cost, not a recurring one.

Ah ok. Was trying to find something between an RE55 (too hard) and an A050 (fun, quick but too soft). Maybe Bridgestone will get their act together and replace the RE55 one of these days.

I suspect they will go the way of a lot of other teams with not enough sponsorship and no factory support, like errr, Lotus back when it was actually Lotus. Also like Williams. And Brabham. And Jordon. And now McLaren if Honda dont get their sht together this time around. Owners get tired of footing massive bills with no prospect of A: Winning or B:Breaking even. Or they just can no longer afford it.

Yokie AD08R's. Anyone know anything about them?

Not really, no. I have the two lock nut type but they can be a bitch to get off and sometimes a bitch to get enough torque on them to tighten properly. The other type there is a bit of a worry about hurting the thread. But ultimately I dont suppose it matter much either way.

I'm not sure what spring rates or lengths to use yet. As far as the spring lengths go, I figure I'll get the shocks all assembled then work out how long they need to be. For length your choice with an Eibach spring is either 8" or 10". 10 for the back easy, 10 for the front if you can. Both may need the extra groove put onto the shock body to accomodate them. Would suggest 10" all round but the front ride height may be a problem so get the grooves put under the existing ones (down aways too). How long is your sleeve? Based on what other people have used, and the fact that the BNR34 is heavier, I'm guessing 325 lb/inch front and 275 lb/inch rear? And will these spring rates work OK with the Bilstein shocks or will I need to have them re-valved? 6kg/mm & 5kg/mm are reasonable numbers. Bilsteins will be fine in this range. You would be surprised how large a srping variation they can accomodate. For the bump stops, where do I get them from so I can cut to suit the block height? And is 30mm about the right measurement to avoid block height occurring? Stock bump stops are good if you have them. You have to try before you can get them to length. This is a pain but has to be done. And excuse my ignorance, but what fixes the sleeve to the shock? I see mention of having to have grooves machined in the shock body to accept a circlip but I can't picture how this works. If you have a look at the other thread the photo in post 12 shows the circlip in the top groove. Tiny circlip is tiny but is trappped by the bottom of the sleeve.

Webber is looking after his own interests. Just like every driver in the field. It isnt Webber that makes Tool look like a tool. Tool is a tool. It is evident even without taking Webbers interests into consideration. This. He aint stupid. He knows what he is in for. He also knows this is his big chance. Which he has worked for years to get.

Best value is probably a low end Canon SLR with a crop sensor. 700D or similar with 2 lenses in a kit. You could probably get the older model (600D) very cheap. Just look to see if the difference in price is worth the extra coin.

OK thanks. $20 should get an entire VL Commodore or an R31 so how hard can it be? Will go see local knucklehead wrecker.

It isnt flawed. It just needs to fit properly like any other machined component. So measure things before you put them together.

Cheers Ben. Engine is out so may aswell be done while it is in a million bits. Can I get the fitting from Repco or do I need a second hand part?

I understand (vaguely) that it is possible to remove the oil heater/cooler that sits behind the oil filter on an Rb26 with parts from an RB20 (I think). Has anyone here done it, and what parts do I need?

You reckon FPR will actually finish?

Tough pick. Hardly. Whincup. Lowndes. Tander.

Where did you get the Samco joiners from?

I reckon $20 for a stolen and recovered 89 spec GMG GTR. Not a cent more.

Second half of the race is better than the first. Not seen the film but I here it is almost as good as Driven? Winning.

Nah he did really good. Unlike anyone in a Force it India.

Probably not quite as good as you would hope but an improvement, certainly. Also your boy teh Hulk done good.

My drain returns to the level of the oil in the sump - so the check valves helps stop oil surge under cornering.

It usually leaks out of the BOV's and no you dont usually get it happening on the dyno, only the track because that is where you get sustained high rpm/high loads and g forces to go with it. The oil recirculates back through the intake system so you will have an intercooler full of oil and from there it leaks out of the blow off valves. The problem, as has been described on this thread is caused by a combination of engine blow by and small holes in the head of the motor for oil return. Simply put once load comes on the motor the oil wont return from the head as the blow by and the small cross sectional area prevents it from doing so. Add in gee forces and you get an oil puking mess like so many others. The fix is as described previously: Good blow by control. Oil restrictor. Open up the drainage holes in the head. Vent the sump to a catch can. Which is an engine out job. RB's have had this problem since they were first built. The stock cast iron rings are good enough to prevent most of it until an engine gets old/powered up but unfortunately most of the forged piston ring sets do not take into account this particular RB idiosyncrasy. IF you want some decent rings talk to Pacific Engine Parts in Melbourne. See earlier.