Moodles2

Beware of cheap silicone hoses, they're not worth it unless you like to replace them when they develop pinhole leaks etc

Does the trans fluid smell burnt on the dipstick?

It won't hurt the engine, it will probably be better than what's in the engine now if you haven't changed it or don't trust the previous owner to serviced it. Exchange it for Syn-X 3000. The cold rating (15w) is not ideal. 5w40 or 10w40 is more ideal.

I thought so, empty around 1/4 tank means you have a aftermarket pump in there which isnt mounted properly (either a bosch 040/044 or a walbro 255)

There are 2 types of -9's, 707160-9 without actuators, 780371-1 with actuators. You can buy adjustable garrett actuators from GCG that are cheaper than HKS adjustables.

They look exactly the same as my Oz Racing wheels (italian)

R32 GTR, stock power, mild tune. 520-550km from a tank (72L GTR tank). 12.5l per 100km average in suburbs, 11l per 100km cruising

Getting gain right is trial and error, too high and boost will spike (but build boost really fast) whereas a setting too low, the boost will be stable (but won't build as fast). It's a matter of finding the right setting that doesn't spike, but still builds boost fast.

It's probably not boost %, but rather duty cycle %. Gain is most likely the difference between the 2 settings, a high gain setting will cause spiking.

99% sure it wouldn't work, the factory map sensor pretty sure sends a voltage signal which the factory boost gauge is calibrated to. I can almost guarantee it's not a digital signal

If RPM rises it's a bad sign, means the alcohol is leaking into the air intake and the engine is burning it

Gee 298mm on the rear. that's bigger than the front (296mm)

Anytime the engine light flashes, the ECU will store that error code until you either clear it via CONSULT or disconnect the battery. Either read the error flashes from the ECU, or get yourself a CONSULT cable or one of these: http://ecutalk.com/consultlcd.aspx and grab that error code. When were the spark plugs last changed, and what type are they (copper, platinum, iridium etc). Can you hear any hissing (vacuum) in the enginebay while idling? If you spray something with alcohol (wd40, brake cleaner, aerostart etc) around the intake manifold, ITB's, vacuum hoses does the RPM (engine changing note) temporarily rise? Things that go wrong when hot but work fine cold, generally don't rule out the coilpack ignitor or the crank angle sensor. Until you get that error code, it's all guesswork and you might even be on the wrong track.

Even though the tyres are the same profile (225/50), they will be stretched out slightly more on the 17x9 wheels causing the front and back to be slightly different. The difference will be multiplied worse if the tyres are a different brand or they have completely different wear. You could take the risk and they work out, or the 4WD system will just keep sending power to the front wheels thinking the rears are slipping 24/7 prematurely wearing out ATTESA system (wasn't designed to be run fulltime)

Check the clutch pedal inside the car, the support bracket might have snapped (very common problem).

People have had alot of success with Venom cats, George there does skyline boltons too: http://www.venomexhaustworks.com.au/products.html I have a 500 series myself (5" body with 3.5" ends)

ATTESSA is controlled by a seperate ECU in the boot, the error code is a red light iirc that flashes, I've never actually done it myself but the error code should still be on there unless it gets wiped on engine shutdown. Since 4WD and ABS are linked to the same sensors, you could have a faulty wheel speed sensor but you won't know for sure till you get that code.

The OP posted supporting mods, intercooler, pipe work, exhaust. Nothing the stock ECU can't handle. GTR ECUs don't do R&R when you wind up the boost (will run rich beyond 16psi, not that you want to run 16psi or higher on stock turbos anyway).

The autobahn88 gear is nasty chinese stuff, most of the time i've read people have had to modify them to make them fit, like making the surfaces dead flat

I was under the impression with the 4WD fuse pulled, the pump isn't powered and the oil doesn't circulate

4WD fuse trick (aka what the 2WD/4WD switches do) only works on R32s. It will overheat and damage the transfer case on R33s and R34s because of 5% or so preload on the transfer case at all times (where R32's have 0% preload)

Of course, all torque splitters do is manipulate the G sensor voltage output.

Doesn't ARC make intercoolers (well did until they went under) for Nismo? Why would you go back to a factory GTR cooler.

Mountain runner is the guy who makes the controller, looks like this: http://www.timeattack.com.au/content/view/30/65/ (old version) or the new version: http://www.topsecret.net.au/ruzicengineering/ATTESA_Controller_II.html . I actually have the old one myself, but never got around to installing it. 4WD controllers are only plugged into the G sensors (located under the centre console near the gearstick), and 2WD/4WD switches basically just open or close the circuit on the 4WD fuse in the driver's fusebox. So it is possible to run both.

A rear main will blow when the oil hits the crank and foams up which in turn cranks up the crankhouse pressure. At the 6L mark on a GTR sump, the oil is nowhere near the crank. Maybe 6.5L+ is enough for the oil to be at that level to hit it, otherwise nothing wrong with only putting 4.5L in as the service manual recommends, but anyone who takes their car to the track will overfill.