gtr jet

370kw as a rough guess. The fuel pump will run out 1st. Depends what you want to use the car for. If you don't mind the extra lag over -7's or -9's then they'll be fine.

I have 245/35 on my 18x9.5's at them moment and they are stretched hence the step up to 265's. I just put 265 18 into ebay or semi slick and see what comes up. I picked some up earlier this week and now i'm just waiting till some more come up at a decent price.

You should have the same size all round but those sizes have a pretty similar rolling diameters so you should be right.

That's the plan when I think I need more power.

I'm in the same boat as you except my rims are 18x9.5. I've found a fair few tyres that would be fine but I can't afford them at the moment so I just started snapping up the used 265/35/18's off ebay.

Nothing at the moment as I'm content with the power. I think I'll get more gains if I upgrade my actuators 1st and see how I go. Eventually I'll rip the cat out and the 3" exhaust and replace it all with 3.5".

I run -7's with a shitty exhaust and stock afm's. With id1000's and a walbro 400 fuel pump I make 325kw on 20psi with E85. If I fix my exhaust and chuck some bigger afm's on I'd probably crack 350kw. It'd be much easier to do it with -9's and I don't think there would be much more lag involved.

Haha fair enough. I think I need to do more OT.

How much if you don't mind me asking? Yahoo auctions?

Anyone ever towed with a 5.0L on gas? I'm about to give it a crack in the next couple of weeks.

Spewin I didn't come up. Looks like it would have been a fun day.

N1's are only good for 20psi or a touch more.

Haha thanks for the pic. I think I'll stick to hunting down 265's then.

Got any idea how much effort it is to squeeze that size on standard 32 GTR guards?

Oh ok, I was looking at the one bellow that. The primus iq. Hopefully it does the job.

What electric brake kit did you go for Brenden as I'm considering putting one in my AU wagon soon.

I got a tiny bit of paint scrapage but nothing serious. My bay was pretty rough anyway so I wasn't too cautious. The Inlet is a bit of a pain to work with and is easier to bolt on when the motor is out but I think the front diff hangs out almost as much as the manifold does anyway. If it was me I'd just bolt it all on before hand again.

-5's are known to be laggy too. You could get close to the power you want on -7's and E85 or just go -9's and win win.

I'd like some info on this as I'm in the same boat too. Car's been off the road since 2010 but I'll probably aim to get club reg on it next year.

100L is pretty good considering you drove there and back. I did the 2 days on KU36's and they were still like new at the end however I reckon I could have gone a couple of seconds quicker on stickier tyre's but I can't justify the money atm. I'm in the same boat as you Adam, $1000 is a lot of money for one or 2 events when something a little harder will last a year. I think I'll leave the KU36's on till they're bald and then try something else.

Haha that's fair enough then. 2540's would be bloody responsive on a strocker and should make decent power and torque.

I put my subframe and engine in from underneath. The only thing I dould think of would be to stick some carpet or something similar on the rails when sliding the engine up. If you're going to do it with the intake manifold and turbo's bolted on then it'll be a bloody tight squeeze. I had probably less than a 10mm gap each side.

Just stick it on E85 anyway. If you don't make 300 you won't be far from it. Plus you'll have a fatter mid range and a bit more reliability. What about fuel pump?

That's all I did. Id's are the way to go.

Probably just. When I went to tune mine on E85 I had 550's and was told I'd probably just make it but I'd be safer going bigger.