DiscardTheWeak

Hello all, I know this topic has been beaten to death, however many of these threads lead to more questions than answers. As far as single turbo water cooled applications, what return water lines need to be retained. The water feeds are self explanatory, and the returns are too to a certain extent, my questions are mostly focused on the returns on the intake side at the rear of the block. I have attached pictures below from a thread that asks a similar question, however the answers are of a great range and indecisive. My question is, do both water returns under the plenum need to be retained? As far as my knowledge is concerned, the pictures below of the water returns under the plenum, have the arrows showing the wrong direction of water flow. As far as I know, the metal tube under the plenum that goes to the heater core, provides water flow into the thermostat housing, not away from the thermostat housing. The other picture, of the engine outlet, leading toward the radiator inlet, looks to have the correct arrow showing flow showing the turbo water return. The front return makes sense when the thermostat is open ONLY, as that is when water flows through that outlet. The rear return under the plenum that connects the water tube that connects to the thermostat housing, also makes sense, as it provides flow when the thermostat is closed. The one that confuses me is the one that connects to that water chamber connected to the intake plenum. This fitting seems redundant to the one on the front of the intake plenum area. Is that connection "needed" and what is its fiction?

Hello, I know this is a major resurrection of a thread, but does anyone have any new experiences with ow mounting big singles. I see hypertune has a big low mounted single in their S15, and the RIPS R34 borg has a medium sized low mount turbo. Im interested in low mounting an EFR 8374, but cant seem to find much info on people low mounting big singles.

That makes sense, besides the bottom fitting which i imagine is where the coolant is returning to the system If my understanding of these systems, yes that would be return. To make the cooling system easier to trace, just use the heater core hoses as your guide. You know the water is drawn in from the thermostat are, so you can assume to call that IN, or suction, or return. Anything attached to that would also behave the same way, like the OEM oil cooler, or throttle body heaters, or turbo feeds/returns.

Are you installing this in a similar way as a “swirl tank”, ie the Greddy coolant swirl tank? In essence you are simply raising the highest coolant level above the height of the engine, so you can effectively maintain zero air pockets in the cooling system. The original radiator cap gets a dumb cap, and the expansion gets the pressure release cap at the new higher level. By running hoses from the highest point of the radiator (the old overflow nipple), and the highest point of the engine (the OEM bleed port) to the tank, you creating flow paths of liquid where air normally would get trapped. Correct if I am wrong on that portion.... The lower port on the tank in most systems I see gets tee’d into the lower radiator hose, which would effectively cause a “suction” or flow out of the bottom of the tank on an RB. Correct? Thus drawing in the coolant from the hoses connected to the head and radiator, creating a constant (kind of) flow in the tank, effectively creating a continuous air bleed. Now, the question of whether you can install the tanks “bottom fitting” before (lower rad hose) or after (behind the thermostat housing) is one I am still unsure of. However, in my mind it would be preferable to have it plumbed behind the thermostat, as the flow path be provided even when the thermostat is closed. Just like your heater core, which gets coolant flow with the thermostat closed. My guess that teeeing into the lower rad hose is for two reasons, one its easy to simply cut the hose and install the adapter, two, you you really dont need its function until the thermostat would be open anyway. In many cases, with the amount of modification we do to these engines, we are left extra barbs and fittings in the coolant and air paths, leaving us creative options to add aftermarket components like this. In the case of the RB26 removing the factory oil cooler leaves you with two 1/2” barbs to work with. On an RB25, if I recall, I haven’t looked at mine in awhile, but there are extra fittings on the heater pipes on the back of the thermostat. As far as the size of the hose to use, I’d like to I know the answer the that question too, with a technical reason behind it. Reason being, the bottom fitting on the Greddy tank is not close to 3/4”, and the plumbing to factory expansion tanks is also not 3/4” either, so I am not sure where 3/4” came from. Check out the Radium Auto coolant expansion tank, and its installation instruction on the website. All of the fitting provided are -6, so in your case with a 3/8” barb behind the thermostat, I dont see why that wouldn’t work.

https://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/ Check out the article above. Its a good read about these system, not on our engines, but informative

Do you intend on using one of those spare fittings in the back of the thermostat housing for the bottom fitting of the tank?

Thank you, I think that is the route I will take. I have redone so much under the plenum, including that fitting behind the thermostat, that plumbing it back there will not be any harder than using the lower rad hose. I am using a radium auto expansion tank, which has an integrated swirl section, its the same idea as the Greddy unit, but machined. What size hose are you guys using for the bottom of the tank? From what I have seen in pictures , the Greddy swirl unit has a small hose coming from the bottom.

I too am installing an expansion tank on my RB26 engine, and am interested to the answer to question this member asked as well. What is the difference in plumbing the bottom of the tank to the fitting behind the thermostat and the lower hose/tank of the radiator? Essentially, which side of the thermosat do you plumb to? My thoughts are that if you want flow through the tank at all times you would want to bypass the thermostat and plumb it to the fitting behind the thermostat housing, no? Thanks everyone

Hello all, can anyone confirm that the configuration pictured above works? I too have this sandwhich plate on my RB26, the 2 angled fittings go to the oil cooler, and I currently have the other 2 as oil temp and pressure. If possible, I’d remove one of the sensors and plumb in the accusump. Thanks

SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD SOLD

This is a brand new in the box Ross Tuffbond "Race" engine dampener, and the last dampener you will ever need to buy. This is as good as it gets for intensive applications, and is rated for over 1500 hp. It has 360 degree timing marks, underdriven water pump and power steering pump, quicker acceleration, and increased engine dependability. However, the best part is, it has a lifetime warranty, whether raced or not. It is meant for the RB25 or RB30, however my intended application was for an RB26 RWD application using an RB25/KA24 power steering pump. Ready to ship anywhere at buyers expense. Thank you $500

No worries, I really want these to go to good owner. In effort to keep everything together, I will take $1700 USD for the package. Thanks guys

I am very sorry for not responding, I must not have "subscribed" to the thread, and was not getting notifications. I will gladly answer your questions, and if anyone else is interested please message me. -The parts are located in the US -The throttle body is 100mm and anodized purple along with the rail -The rail is for 11mm injectors -The rail fittings are M20x1.5, and center return is pipe thread(included) -Message me with address for shipping quote -It is heartbreaking to let this stuff go, as they are one of a kind, and truly are art, but my project totally changed direction. Rob at RIPS truly is the king of RB''s, and just getting this stuff stateside was an honor. Please contact me by private message

This is a brand new RB26 intake plenum produced by the infamous RIPS. These are iconic pieces of work, and power some of the highest RB engines ever built. It is polished, and includes a custom anodized purple throttle body, which makes it one of a kind. These are quite rare to see, and are very costly to get, for good reason. The purple anodizing was intended, and succeeded in being a match to the HKS purple. Please contact me with any questions, thank you. Dont hesitate to make reasonable offers $1500 USD Plenum includes purple throttle body.... This is a one kind custom RB26 fuel rail produced by RIPS. It is numbered 001, making it the first one available, and is anodized purple to match the throttle body. Rob designed and machined this piece from start to finish, and it was truly an honor be involved in the process. A unique feature of this rail, is the center return fitting is on the underside of the rail, as opposed to sticking out of the top. This allows you to tuck away your return line for a nice clean look. This truly is one of a kind, and heart breaking to part with. $325

Everything has sold, aside from the Haltech Sport 2000 and the long universal harness. $1800 USD

Just wanted to update the thread with compatibility confirmation from Carbonetic. Open to offers "Thank you, found the record. PN ACN23210-14 - Nissan R34, BNR32(Koki, Late Model), BCNR33 - Twin 1350Kg Matching list shows: BNR32 YR 89.8-93.1(Zenki) RB26DETT 5MT Genuine MT BNR32 YR 93.2-95.1(Koki) / BCNR33 YR 95.1-99.1 RB26DETT 5MT Genuine MT R32 YR89.5-93.7 / R33 YR93.7-99.1 / R34 YR98.5-01.06 RB20DET / RB25DET 5MT NOT for Hollinger, OS, HKS or Trust MT."

This is a brand new RB26 intake plenum produced by the infamous RIPS. These are iconic pieces of work, and power some of the highest RB engines ever built. It is polished, and includes a custom anodized purple throttle body, which makes it one of a kind. These are quite rare to see, and are very costly to get, for good reason. The purple anodizing was intended, and succeeded in being a match to the HKS purple. Please contact me with any questions, thank you. $1500 USD Plenum includes purple throttle body.... This is a one kind custom RB26 fuel rail produced by RIPS. It is numbered 001, making it the first one available, and is anodized purple to match the throttle body. Rob designed and machined this piece from start to finish, and it was truly an honor be involved in the process. A unique feature of this rail, is the center return fitting is on the underside of the rail, as opposed to sticking out of the top. This allows you to tuck away your return line for a nice clean look. This truly is one of a kind, and heart breaking to part with. $325

RacePak IQ3------SOLD Haltech air temp sensor--------SOLD Haltech coolant temp sensor---------SOLD Haltech Boost Control solenoid-------SOLD Haltech Wideband O2-----------SOLD Haltech Sport 2000 w/ long flying lead harness--$1850

These are brand new in the box purple Tial MVR (44mm) wastegates and Tial Q-valves. These were purchased from Full-Race and are laser etched with their logo. Tial products have pretty much set the standard in the industry, and both of these are the latest offering. The quality is amazing, and they look stunning under the hood in purple. The wastegates offer the unique feature of being able to plumb coolant through them to keep them cool, which will help keep them from scorching as most wastegates do. My intentions were to install both Q-valves, one hot side, one cold side, mostly for aesthetics, but I was told it would have no degrading effect on performance. I would prefer to sell them in pairs or as a few set, but willing to work out other arrangements. Willing to ship at buyers expense, please contact me with any questions. Thank you (x2) Tial MVR wastegates $550 (x2) Tial Q-valaves $400

These are brand new in the box Okada Projects Plasma Direct coils for an R34 RB26DETT (PD6003403R). These are the cream of the crop when it comes to GTR ignition components. As stated above they are meant for an R34 RB26, however I believe they can be used on other model and generation RB engines. From what I understand much of the difference is in the coil harness, as some RB engines have built in igniters and others don't. This can be cleared up by contacting Okada Projects for compatibility questions, as they were very helpful at the time I purchased them. Again, these are brand new in the box, never fitted, and come with all original documentation. Willing to ship at buyers expense, please contact me with any question. Thank you $900 USD OBO Manufacture information..... "A revolution in ignition technology!! The Plasma Direct is the ignition coil with a high power amplifier built in to it. The Plasma Directs produce 4 times more spark energy than stock coils and also generate an ultra fast multi spark discharge of 10 sparks up to highest RPM. The spark amperage is increased 100%, allowing the spark to reach many more molecules and therefore accelerate the ignition and combustion process. This is extremely important in forced induction applications but also improves the performance of normally aspirated engines. The Plasma Direct will increase horsepower and torque throughout the entire rpm range. This upgrade will also reduce fuel consumption. Even the engines with a legendary smoothness will be further refined with the Plasma Direct upgrade. Our Plasma Directs are OBD II compliant."

Sorry, but I am not ready quite yet to split it up. I have recieved a good deal of interest in the complete system, so I hope to keep it all together. However, if things change in the near future, I will send you a message right away. Thanks

Sorry for the delayed response. I am selling because I will be putting off my project for awhile. No, this is not a logger IQ3. PM me with any other questions

Someone recently asked which pressure plate it has, it has the "regular" pressure plate, as opposed to the "street" pressure plate. "Regular" being stronger.

This is a brand new in the box Haltech Sport 2000, RacePak IQ3 display, long flying lead universal harness, coolant temperature sensor, air temp sensor, wideband 02 sensor, MAP sensor, and boost control solenoid. This system can be used for practically any engine made and is very user friendly to the installer and tuner. The sensors included are from Haltach, however most factory sensors can be calibrated quite easily to communicate with the ECU, such as oil pressure, crank/cam sensors, throttle position, as well as any additional temp and pressure sensors you want to add. LS coils are actually what Haltach sells on their website, which can also be used on practically any engine as well. Another great thing about the Haltech system is that the RacePak IQ3 digital dash plugs right into the side and outputs all sensor information. This essentially eliminates the need to purchase and wire up a bunch of senders and gauges. The flying lead harness is a complete universal wiring harness, complete with fuses, relays, looming, shielding, color coding, labeling, esc. A brief look at the wiring installation diagram, and you can see how easy they have made it for us. This system is new in the box, and I would prefer to sell as a complete system. Please contact me with any questions. Located in New Jersey, willing to ship. Thank you $2700 Manufacture information Platinum Sport 2000 | Haltech - Engine Management Systems Wiring Diagram http://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Platinum2000WiringDiagramrevJ.pdf

This is a brand new in the box R32,R33,R34 (RB26DETT) Carbonetic (ATS&Cross) twin disc carbon clutch (ACN23210-14). It includes all new OEM Nissan components needed for installation, and all associated documentation. This clutch really needs no introduction, as it is certainly regarded as one of the best clutches available. Based on the Carbonetic website it will also work with the RB20 and the RB25, which would include anyone doing a rear wheel drive setup as well. As stated it is new in the original box and never fitted. Willing to ship at buyers expense, please contact me with any questions. Thank you $2000 USD Compatibility list CARBON CLUTCH - CARBONETIC - ACROSS Official Website