robbo_rb180

I want the Gr86 not gr yaris 😉 Yeah sucks for him as was a great car, had been in it a few times.

Chucked on cooling system pressure tester this morning and found a pin hole leak in the bottom of the radiator on one of the fins. F*cking shitbox nissan racecar Anyone got a 2022 Toyota gr86 they want to swap me

Will look at it a bit more tomorrow. Idle has been good it needed a slight adjustment on fuel. Looking at a log it also was only making 14psi not the usual 16psi on gate pressure. So guessing they didn't tune that area too well........ Hopefully not but it would give me a chance to upgrade to a CAN lambda as still running it over a 0-5v ANVolt input. Lucky s15 has a haltech wb in it.

As I said upto 15% in some spots but on average 5-6%. The quality of the previous coils was questionable as plug gap was down to .6mm and would breakdown over 18psi or around 2 laps of QR. So now burning all the fuel injected. I am sure someone much smarter/experienced can explain it. @Dose Pipe Sutututu @Ben C34 I am wanting to get it back on a dyno but struggling to find a tuner I can trust and willing to work with me on setting up some other ecu functions.

Picking up where I left off. As usual Taarks/efi solutions delivered quickly and got staright into fitting the coil kit. Pretty easy install and replaced the spark plugs while I was there. The kit comes with new plug and pins for the cols but after removing the splitfire kit I didn't have a loom so took the oppotunity to make new one. Bought tefzel wire from local supplier and had some raychem heat shrink from previous looms. Tried a different method with measuring and planning and it turned out pretty good. With that fitted, changed dwell settings in the ecu and fired it up. Biggest thing is obvious with all the fuel being ignited is it now was running leaner so had to add fuel everywhere. Biggest place was on boost with upto 15% fuel needing to be added in places. Fitted the BM57 and bled the brakes with the help of a local mechanic. Brake pedal felt a lot better. With all the work done headed back to Lakeside for Time Attack round 2. First session out car felt good on the 2 warm up laps so went for a fast lap, brakes were great at turn 2 and kept pushing through bus stop to hungry corner but at the top of eastern loop got a big vibration again so went straight into the pits. Car was also a not coming down in temp as quick either (normally 90-92 but 92-94 on a cooler day)so a few pit laps and straight back to normal. Quick check of wheel nuts and suspension couldn't find anything so went back out for second session and did the 1 warm up and went for a fast lap. The lap was ok but lost time at the top of eastern loop with a slight correction. Ended the lap with 59.9 but decided on a second flyer but again towards middle of the lap got the vibration in the front again so pitted and a lap of pits to cool down. Parked it up and called it a day as I was instructing in the afternoon. After around a 30mins went to move the car and felt front left brake dragging....... Here's the in car from the best lap of the day. The race box mini was great paired with RaceChrono to give me more accurate data. Got a few adjustments to make tyre pressure and suspension before next time at Lakeside as car feels unsettled through the Kink and Bus Stop. Debated about how to fix the issue. Rebuild current calipers or fit the EVO brembo kit I have sitting on the shelf for the s15? Needed brake pads and rebuild kits for the EVO kit then would need another kit for the s15. With having no where to work on the still, went with a rebuild the current brakes. Found a local shop that was happy to help. After 2 days and a few $$$$ the shop had it all sorted. The Front calipers required seals and pistons were salvageable the rears though needed all new pistons with seals and front rotors were machined too. Now looking on all the track calendars to find a test/practice day to see how it goes before next time attack day. Looking at Morgan Park as haven't been there for over a year and a good variety of corners but also the cheapest as QR now requires Motorsport Australia licence for practice and sprints. Hopefully thats the brake issues now sorted and can get back to driving it for a whole day.

"Johnny's should have bought a BMW and random chat thread" One of the biggest things to with the 90s shitboxes is the nostalgia. Look at all the senior gentlemen in their chrome bumper stuff. We are now becoming those guys. Where everything was better " back in my day"

I think there's the enjoyment/challenge with building something yourself and seeing how it performs vs X Product/workshop. Like you I am way over invested in the race car and I am always thinking I should sell and buy something I can drive there, easier to maintain and better from the start but cbf dealing with people to sell it. The biggest thing is it should be fun going out and driving the car. Once that enjoyment is gone maybe look at just parking it up for a while under a cover.

You answered your question earlier 😂

I think more seat time you will be close to euro guys. After talking with some of the QLD time attack guys that went down a few weeks ago it sounds like it's racing for sheep stations down there. The euro cars definitely have the upper hand straight up.

Will happily trade you my shitbox 180sx for yours. Would have been an interesting night driving in the wet.

Purple in 2015 were custom built at 3 levels comfort, race and drift. So pro sport now Essentially blues with red valving. Yeah pro comfort be street essentials. If needing a change talk with them as can revalve to suit changes. They changed marketing a lot, Josh seems to be marketing more broadly now and more to the average consumer.

I am on the MCA bandwagon. I have purples in the street car- 2015 Spec X-R, Reds in one track car and Golds in the other. Their Purple or Performance coilover is best for street cars that see the odd track day. Everything above that is Track only. The way they ride and take bumps in the road is amazing, have done over 3200km in one road trip without a complaint. Rides nicer than my 2019 370z

Could use a borescope/inspection camera. Pull the head, its the only way to see whats wrong.

what is the issue exactly? pistons need replacing or bore is scored?

Where is the temp sensor located? I've found in the sump takes a long time and in the oil filter housing around 10-20 mins pending weather

New rotors (non slotted/drilled) and a quality pad and fluid. Project mu, endless or a bit cheaper Intima do decent street pads. Penrite 600f fluid.

What was that guy with the valves and rotary stuff 6-7+ years ago?? Feels to be similar thing

Have you done a leak down test? take cam and timing covers off and check that its all timed right too.

For Mad skidz and drifts. Pretty cool but a few downsides depending on what tcu you use and cars use.

Use those fancy gauges you bought 😜

*next post- my engine is making a knocking sound Any decent metal head gasket will do the job. Do Arp head studs and valve springs while the head is off. Pending turbo sizing, fuel system and condition of engine, bottom end will be the biggest weak point.

Welcome, GTR scene is big in NSW. Got any pics of you car? If your keen to record your build start a build thread here https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/190-projects-overhauls-and-build-ups/

Yeah we've got a hq. It's the wife's but I am the one always fixing it.