robbo_rb180

Really comes down to budget and what your doing with it? Decent 32 gtr is around 60-79K ish then another 50-100k to fix it properly after the last 20 owners have fcuked with it. Go drive one first then go drive something modern from 2015 onwards. See how bad they are and then go buy the newer car. @Dose Pipe Sutututu tell him he should buy a BMW and live the life of not always fixing sheit bok 😂 I am off old nissan's as street cars at the moment, I have found my 370z is a good in between compromise of can tinker with it and has some modern features.

I have nyloc nuts on a few of my gktech arms and they have been fine so far. I do try and bolt check the car after a few events. The nankang Ar1 is great for the money. Tyre pressure is key and depending on how you heat cycle and length of time you have them, they fell off for me after around 12 months but I think humidty played a part in that. What type of events you using the 34 for? I do sprits/time attack and just switched to the Nankang CR-S, switched from the advan a050. It has same if not more grip than the a050 but is only really good for 1 fast lap at 100% and is sensitive to aggressive surface temp changes.

Your still driving this boat, thought you would have that bmw already. The western Sydney locals aren't selling enough kebabs? I found a cheap way to keep the belt on was use a 5mm shorter one. Seems to have worked for me. I think my balancer is a 2010ish Ross one. If you decide to go electric a company in qld converts steering shaft with electric motors instead. A lot of the drifters are going that way, sure could use a PWM output on the kebabtech to control feeling.

Kyle is very busy and generally takes 3-5days to reply. I have a lot of their product on one of my cars and it's good quality worth the wait for. Could try jsai as they do a lot of lip kits

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As been said HR swap is not any real improvement vs money. 2 options are boost or LS swap it. Boost can be reliable but power gains are low for cost. then you have the issues of keeping it cool on track. LS is the way especially a track only car. LS parts are everywhere, big aftermarket and reliable power from a stock engine with a decent cooling system. EDIT Sell it and buy a 370z. Faster than a basic modified V35/350z out of the box.

The motorsport one, I had all the others already. Clubsport one is a bit dry but still great for learning. I'm having a shed built next month and been looking at coating the floor. Was price reasonable to get done? I've done a small area myself before and it was time consuming but lasted 6 years with no issues.

That garage floor looks great. What did you use? Good work on the loom, I've brought the hpa motorsport wiring course and keen do some fancy stuff on the new car.

Its always seems easier when you think about, I know I have fallen into that trap. Great you persevered with it and have got it on the road So this was the car Hollands was chasing all those bits for.

Welcome, Whats the plans for paint? If going to keep a build thread start a post in here https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/190-projects-overhauls-and-build-ups/

That's an odd size tyre and why expensive, better off going 255 IN 17s or step up to 265 in 18s. Your in Brisbane area? Try keith4wheels at underwood. Pricing should be better on nankangs through him. Another budget option IF you can find them is the nexen sur4g. Found them better than the ns2r on cars I've driven. Found running square setups helps as I would rotate tyres more frequently to get the most out of them.

How much street driving? Daily driver or weekender with odd week day? My daily I'm happy with 15000km with odd fun day at a motorkhana/sprint. Currently on Michelin ps4s Thought about going to nankang crs for track tyres?

For the pedal a 350z/g35 pedal bolts up no need for the bosch pedal and can be bought for much cheaper.

Seeing stock/lightly modified skylines these days is cool. The old reliable and proven rb25 hiflow, injectors and tune combo 220-230kw is good for the Sunday cruise car. Especially if you already have a quick LS powered boat.

pending budget and what you intend to do with it have you considered a rb52/30, vq35/37 or LS conversion? The VQ or LS may cost a little bit more initially to setup and get going but long term and parts availability good option. Parts everywhere and most repco has it on the shelf.

I've used their sr20 rebuild kit and it was fine. Just make sure you know what bearing sizes you require. Is the r32 going to be registered?

https://www.efihardware.com/products/331/air-temp-sensor-Delco-14mm ^^ something similiar to this. Cheap, reliable and available everywhere as General Motors (GM) used it. Pressure sensor. Bosch/honeywell are most common and reliable. https://www.efihardware.com/products/3300/pressure-sensor-150psi-10bar-honeywell

That is normal to have a controller wired to the old g4 series to an ANVolt input. Once configured can see it on PCLink, I have been doing that for 10+ years with older links. CAN is better but not available on a G4. Yes, wire the pressure sensors to ANVolt inputs. Need to also wire them to +5v and sensor ground.

Yes replace the nissan IAT with a GM style one. With the Link ecu you want IAT and Wideband sensors at a minimum can add Oil and fuel pressure and utilise the safety strategies.

Mazda 3, hyundai I20/30, corolla and use the left over budget on some driver training. Try and help get rid of bad habits from who has taught her.

Yeah seems to be UK after a quick google. Anything that modified will require some form of constant maintenance. Pretty good parts but are you going to use the car to its potential?

no parts will swap over and the amount of money to get any performance out of that motor is wasted as be no worth while gain. Save $$$$ and swap to a rb25det or rb30det in the future.

Your in USA? guessing thats the youtube guy that builds and flips cars. 600hp USA is around 200hp in Australian dyno figures 😂

This is how my 180sx is. I have also set up nissan IRS in nissan minitruck style builds to have full travel of the suspension with low static heights of around 70-80mm 180sx is 1200kg with driver 255/40/17 semi slick You want it worst case parallel but I have found it slightly angled down towards outside is better. I run rear camber 2.3 degrees, Toe in 0.9-1.2mm eash side Ride height of around 105-112mm. Apologies for hijacking

They really have flogged that horse.... Its a 15 year old car now and really needs to be replaced.