robbo_rb180

The work/cost to make a good set of headers fit isn't too bad a friend made 2 inch primary tubes work in his s13. One of the plus for v8 is gearbox good to go with out need for adapters and some great support for gearsets. Then it's just finding the right ratio to work with it. Having torque everywhere would be nice too 😁 Yep got all the right insurance. We mainly have a lot of first timers at a driving event so not going to hard and in their dailys too.

The housing, gears & centre are available Axels and stub axels SOLD

its not run under the nanny MA rules 😂 Took me a bit to get use to it but so good on hot days. Its non competitive with timing for reference really should see some of the other events we do. Well my rb hasn't had any problems in 11 years......... Been toying with the idea of a v8 race car as really like to see cost and reliability compared to the 4 & 6 cylinder. Just don't know if worth the effort of going through all the hassle of engine swap and then do you go 'Merican or Japanese. heres the Boss mans run in his r35 GTR for comparison https://fb.watch/hx430gYXsR/

Cheers guys, car is super quick as it is but will be turning up next year after a few more events. All the effort was worth it. It definitely tested my commitment wanting to drive.

Well there has been big progress with the car. Got the diff sorted, stripped and inspected. Clutches were glazed so had that sorted and everything inspected, reset the lash as was a little on the loose side and fresh oil. All good and so much nicer. While it was up getting diff put in decided to raise the rear 5mm to put a bit more weight forward, have the sil80 setup like this and helped heaps. Now the brake pedal feel hasn't been great since fitting the gktech/holfords BM57. They have been bled multiple times but pedal has been long the firts few times and never consistant. So deceided to check the booster rod engagement and it was not good being around a 1.2mm out. So adjusted that and pedal feel was really good and similar to other cars with BM57 I have. Next was a wheel alignment but before they started I had a look over all the steering rack........................ Found the solid bushes were not holding it in place. Had to remove and use a few different shims but got it in there and its not going any where now. The alignment on it from the local guy was absolutely sh!t, his machine definitely needs calibrating. The guys at Keith4Wheels have set me up with a base setting to work with that is a little on the sedate side but guaranteed me it would be good to start from, They were not wrong. Worth the 40min drive for me. Working part time for a company that runs track/drive days helps when you want to test your car 😁 Spent 3 days at Lakeside Park testing on different layouts and the car did not disappoint. Day 1 was out on what is a Driver Training Course and a small grip layout. Straight up first corner was great and after 3 laps with tyre temps coming up the car was so good turn in and rotated smoothly. Next few times out started to get more confident with the throttle but car kept taking it and a few small slides but it kept going straight and gripped up nicely. Day 2 was a reverse layout of main track from Bus Stop down Karrussell to the start/finish line with some chicanes. This layout is awesome and real good test. After a few runs with tyres and brakes up to temp started pushing and quickly found the limits at much higher speeds with understeer and rear wanting to slide more. Had a bit of think and tried a few different things with pressures and dampers and after a few more laps ended up 43.71 and 4th behind a r35 dual entry and a tesla on semi's. Very happy with that outcome. Day 3 was a another small grip layout event and pretty much used the car as demonstration and passenger rides. Again it performed great with no issues. This was my 4th fastest lap of the day. The gopro decided to do gopro things on my other laps. Fast lap on camera.mp4 Overall stoked with the car now. Didn't have to put a spanner to it over 3 days just fuel, check fluids and tyre pressures. I did have the car for sale for a few weeks as I got offered a compete stroker sr20ve 600hp, motec , rb gearbox setup for the s15 but have passed it up. Better to have a running race car than another project non running race car. Will start gathering parts soon for another sr20 setup for it. So the plan is to go over the 180sx bolt check, change fluids, adjust wheel alignment and rotate tyres on wheels ready for some track time at the end of January 2023.

If actually going to track it, I wouldn't bother adding power. Quality after market radiator and big oil cooler (pwr or setrab) as they suffer from high temps after a quick lap. My 370 gets 1 hot lap and need to back off. If set on boost look at the BTW r35 turbo kit. As that is the best value and uses most of the factory parts like heat shields and intakes. Needs like 1 or 2 after market elbows. That way can use all aftermarket bolt ons.

Even my aeroflow dealer won't recommend their pumps. I have had 1 fail in a car I bought. They are getting better but yeah wouldn't be using them. Always buy genuine for that kind of thing.

the only time heat heat is an issue generally is circuit racing, stupid hot days (40+C) or running multiple pumps full time.

Short in alternator. Use a multimeter to find it.

Have had a similar issue in an old HQ. Turned out the drive cable spring had failed, never cut it open to see exactly but was doing random speeds most of the time and close to normal once in a while.

Yep. Receipts are required for the wovr process. Need model, vin of that vehicle and price on it. It's a good and bad thing as will keep dodgy repaired cars off the and make a few cars cheaper at auction.

In Queensland from next week there will no longer be repairable write-offs. Inspectors here started clamping down on quality of repairs and also trying to stop rebirthing.

Artec can be ordered with either bungs. Cast stainless be the way to go too.

Yep they do things like that. Also depends on calculation used for power.... Japan hp is not Australian hp or North American hp When I was tuning at a shop would show customers how we can give them higher readings. Change barometric pressure, temp sensor on/near manifoldsand ramp rates. Looks on their faces when a 400hp car makes a 1000hp 🤣 Number 1 change fuel pump, 2 check how fuel pump is wired (40amp relay and 5mm wire minimum), 3 get a log and tune file to @Dose Pipe Sutututu or @The Mafia , 4 if issue still there find/borrow a fuel regulator. Japanese workshops aren't all that great and stuck in 2005.

How is the fuel pump wired? Has the ecu been setup after all these changes? Got a wideband on it?

Does the car have an adjustable fuel regulator? If it does lower the pressure. The way a fuel regulator works on these is there's a set base pressure (usually 3bar or just under with vac reference removed) and as manifold pressure increases so does fuel pressure. It still a fuel pump issue. As has been stated. Your American yeah? I'd listen to the Australian guys who have more than 30years of experience with this platform. when the factory regs failed I've had low pressure not high. @Dose Pipe SutututuI still think we should go over there and show them how to set these things up properly and tune more than just full throttle cells.

Yeah the nankangs definitely go off after around 18months especially if not stored correctly and heat cycled too many times. Corner weighting and new alignment will make a difference. Good luck with the next track day, cool seeing cars like this being used.

plumb into the turbo intake after the AFM. Plenty of places to get the parts around SE Qld- Trix parts, All Import wrecking or jdm garage. Its a 20min job and need a screwdriver and small sockets.

easy fix is LS conversion. A mate went through this issue a long time ago. The rb doesn't make the torque required for that chassis and I imagine you'll have big tyres too which just makes it worse.

same thing ones internal one is external. its 600hp is generous and at 4 bar of pressure and drops off shows its not big enough but hey what would I know..............

A single Bosch 040 isn't big enough........ Go to a modern drop in TI or bosch probaly 2x 460lph with a new or modded hanger and stage the 2nd pump at like 3500rpm and 50% TPS

Gktech

^^^ lots of this and have a set budget as that will dictate what you can actually achieve This would be the base stuff to start with Hypergear highflow Link plugin ecu IDx1050 TI Automotive/Bosch 460L pump plasmaman intercooler kit

NPC or Direct Clutch Services Both can supply what you want and have great drivabilty.

Local exhaust shop.............