robbo_rb180

Well made it to the dyno and all run in with a soft base setup. Made 261kw and 450nm on 18psi. VID_53020202_200818_689.mp4 Held it back as concerned about breaking the sr gearbox so Looking at the 350/370z gearbox conversion and a r35 coilpack setup as was breaking down at 20psi. Got to now rebleed the brakes, adjust front camber washers as struggled getting tie down straps on, fit rear wheels and get an alignment. Looking at 10th November for first outing at QR to shake it down and see what else needs sorting before committing to events next year.

trust the wife as mine was right about the sil80. Once you guys get a bigger place I am sure the you will get to scratch that bmw itch.

So guessing no bmw purchase then......... Loving that you are committed to getting this car back to better factory. Its all these little bits that make a street car nice.

Got to drive it for that to happen............. that setup is great super reliable, drives how I like. Just need that cruise & traction control setup and maybe a new gearbox and clutch. Race cars get all my attention at the moment. @SKYMAGGOT no point slap bits and pieces here and there, ends up costing more and takes longer. Do it once and do everything at once. Write down what you want to achieve with a setup and go in a few cars that are similiar to what you want and just work towards that.

I have the old 256 poncams ,old gt3076r on factory manifold externally gated. Around 16-17psi on e85 is around 320kw. Very responsive on the street and track. Revs to about 7000rpm. Its more of a 2008-2010 spec era setup only benefit I have is drive by wire. These days I'd wouldn't even bother with cams unless going for big power(400+kw).

yep, saw rb20 and staright to r32. Add these to the to do list: Get a consult cable and check for error codes Clean MAF Clean IACV @PranK is it time we do a Pinned generic fault to do check list thread?

If this is happening as car gets warmer I'd be looking at the following: Ignitor module Coil packs Fuel pump and associated electrical components. Alternator output voltage Also check that the motor is grounded back to the chassis and all grounds are clean.

Welcome, Is the new car for daily duties?

I have found pulsar and patrol buckles to work with my s chassis seat belts in the past. Need some modding to get the length and bolt hole right. Those recaros are so good, love them in my Z. Shame no provision for a 5/6 point harness.

I have run everything from centre mount Defi setup, a pillar mounted autometer, powertune digital display on the column. I now use the realdash app on my head unit. Heaps cleaner, multiple custom display setups and connects to ecu over usb/CAN. Doesn't draw attention or standout. Google is your friend for pics.

I got mine after @Dose Pipe Sutututu and had no issues with the pinning of it so may have a been an early issue or someone was a bit lazy that day. Cheers for posting the arming voltage too as mine takes a few goes to fire on first crank. Fuel and timing haven't helped so will try this.

The haltech controls it once its installed and a 2d or 3d duty cycle map controls its output, can be setup as open or closed loop. I would recommend not installing it atm and wait until the haltech is installed with the mac valve installed at same time and then tuned. a potentiometer can installed wired to the ecu to control levels of boost via voltage. Another way is a 3d table with rpm vs tps or rpm vs ethanol or wheel speed vs rpm, even one of the mentioned with another overlay of the combinations. End of the day the haltech needs to be installed with the mac valve to make use of it.

Looks like an s chassis sr20 subframe

I'd say the biggest issue will be the 2 cheap fans on it that came with the radiator. Ditch them and get the factory clutch fan and shroud on. The cheap stuff doesn't move enough air. The only electric fans worth putting on are either spal or maradyne. In 14 or 16 inch with proper shroud. I use cheaper radiators but always use factory fan or the mentioned electric ones with no issues.

Cheers, no issues with damage there as Duncan said it's out of the way in any major incident. Yep exactly same reason I have the cooler on the back of the radiator for that just in case. The reason we angled it was to get the fitting work but great to know for changes.

Welcome, This forum is still a thing. Nice looking r32, you'll find a few Kiwi's on here.

I didn't like how I had run the oil lines for the remote filter and cooler was in a bit of rush when i did it so while it's been apart fabbed a plate to move the filter and cut through the wheel tub. Came up nice and lots less hose was able to cut down the old line. New motor is running, had a small issue with the trigger setup but got it sorted and fired up with really good oil pressure. 20221013_144104.mp4 With motivation high decided to fit the new MCA Reds I bought back in February. These are nice, sets of different camber washers, new hardware and heights set. I had been swapping the coilovers between the 2 180sx for years. Looking forward to testing them out. Now that its all back together will hopefully have dyno booked next week for run in and tune. May finally get on track with it this year 😅

https://www.rimtuck.com/

Good to hear, I was planning on mounting a baton light off the wall to light up engine bays. Maybe even a bracket to angle down a bit.

Nice upgrades, how have you found the lights? Looking to use something similiar and wondering how they go with brightness and spread. Hoist is the best thing makes it enjoyable to work on cars being comfortable. I have old office chairs to sit on BUT one problem you'll find is can't go without one once you have had it.

I think theres a bit more too it than that. But swapping heads from one manufacturer has been done off the top of my head is the ford crossflow onto holden 202 as bore spacing is the same. A new casting of the rb twin cam head would be great, solid lifter, dual VVT, quality aluminium, bigger headstud provision and with a new bottom end see rb live on like the sbc. One reason too running a cast block over a billet is race class rules. IPRA have been stuffing the ford v8 people around allowing then not allowing certain cast blocks too.

Speedmaster have pretty much been just copying parts from all the other companies over the years. Quality has been poor on a few of their copied items. I haven't used used one or know anyone with one of these but why risk it buy a genuine Nitto pump and be confident in that. Otherwise just buy billet gears from one of the other quality suppliers.

They are now of the right age where they are collectable and the clean genuine cars will sell. That 32 looks tidy, need to get him on here and post up details.

There's a lot of stuff for sale and it's not selling even significant price drops they still sit. The quality of some of the cars is questionable but even some cleaner examples aren't selling. Big thing as well is the demographic that generally wants these types of cars don't have extra dollars to throw around either. Wait til banks up loan repayments and rental home owners up rent, will see a lot of cars hit the market which would be a good time to purchase as market will be flooded so have more bargaining power. Super clean low km cars will sell but that is a very small niche market these days. Even samething with parts. With how inflated the market was seeing it come back to where it should be if not may see another drop soon. I have even considered buying a clean s14 for mid 30s as its a model I like and if right colour pops up may find I'll pull the trigger but again very niche thing being low km, condition, colour and mods. Look at my new race car, the guy I bought it off had no real interest besides me and I got an epic deal on that. Yes very niche thing but if no interest people will sell at reduced price. There's a few 32gtr for sale even at very reasonable money from stockish to decently modified. All just over 50k to 95k. They would have sold last year quickly. Also south of qld there's quiet a lot more recreational pharmacist's and kebab shops with money they need to "invest" so see more cars selling in those areas. Doses car will sell if put out there I reckon 45-60k depending on what power cruise/roll race event would be coming up as better to sell when events like that are on to make a bit more as be demand for it just need to put some et streets on the rear.

Yeah don't do it. Car is almost perfect and is easy to work on and modify. Park it in shed put a cover on it and let it sit there. Think you missed the market by 3-4 months for getting good money and not worth the hassle dealing with F*(ktards.