robbo_rb180

depending on km & condition they would make at the wheels Manual 195-205kw Auto 190-195kw

@Dose Pipe Sutututu @Murray_Calavera https://www.facebook.com/skidcontrol/videos/1210868612832128/?mibextid=Ln9nvgL5G69ErzOE

I can recommend the nankang cr-s but its a time attack tyre and can't do full sessions at full pace. Testing so far has shown they are faster than the advan over 1 lap but the advan is more consistent over the session. I'll look for the Testing video that Dylan from skid control has done.

Next thing we'll be hearing about Don mega spec fuel systems and valve springs in rotaries....... Having worked at one of Queensland's biggest vq tuners I may know what I'm on about.

please buy the ebay box........ They will do 230ish kw MAX with headers, exhaust and maybe intake pipes. Anything else requires a power adder (nitrous or boost) I want some of what your dealer is on. The after market ecu does not control everything.... they run the engine and integrate with the factory Nissan CAN system so all the factory systems work.

Also check this thread out

@klutched is converting to zf8 hp75 Plenty of info out there in europe, simon michealmore has the dct in his drift car and it seems that it took a lot of work to tune the TCU from HTG. He may be someone to contact and have a chat to about it. Have a look at the zf 8hp** conversion too a youtube channel on sunny coast has done it on his bmw with decent power and talks about the pro & con of it.

Those manifolds do look good and seem great quality when I had a look at jamboree. Looking forward to seeing how all the upgrades improve lap time. Your coming over for WTAC next year?

Be prepared for a lot of this, what ever quotes you get double it then may be close.

17+ years of information right here Who ever will be tuning go with what ecu they recommend, most likely a Link or Haltech as they are the most common and more budget orientated.

Get some pics up of the tools your making/using be handy for others. This is going to worth all the effort. Good idea with the booth/tarps. I've used a 6x3 gazebo & industrial wrap on the sides with good success.

yep but lesson learned. Shed progress has small things happening but looking like its not going exactly where we planned, still no date as catching up on back log. At least have a concreter now

He has a great attitude on safety and good to hear he is pushing it on customers.

Back into this today as had some motivation. Spent the day swapping intake & exhaust stuff over. Previous owner of the new motor must have used a rattle gun everything as took a bit of effort to remove water inlet/outlet and fittings in the block. As usual with old nissan stuff one of the last intake manifold threads decided to not exist anymore so add that to the list to fix in a week when working on it again. Bought a electric pump to prime the new system and need a few fittings to finish new oil lines. And as we were disassembling the old motor my mate was looking at the intake ports and found a nice crack in cyl 3 port 😪 Can just see the crack in the top so I've either gone to aggressive with the port or the new guide was sent a bit too hard So that head is toast and need a new plan for my s15 as this motor was going to be rebuilt to go in that. Mates back from shift next wednesday and plan is to have it in and started friday hopefully.

Not sold. NS was part of the hardtuned brand and everything that falls under that more branding/merch stuff these days. From what I've gathered the hosting fee's aren't paid any more and it was shut down.

Yeah its making it a bigger job and more time off the road. Your right most of its hidden so won't see it just a good clean will be fine there. Its a slippery slope with tidying up/restoring a car thats why I haven't fixed my wifes HQ. Need to pull half of it apart to fix a few little things but it would be mostly stripped at that point and I hate half doing things.

you've come this far....... may as well do the rear now too as be heaps easier doing it in one hit. Cars on the hoist so subframe is easy to remove.

Where are you located as some members can recommend quality honest workshops. Those 2 options are ridiculous.

Measure from backing plate from the side and top and then from bottom timing cover to roughly find center. Cut with a hole saw slightly smaller them test fit and trim where needed. I have cut a factory one and and used a few measurements off car to get it about right with a few mm of clearance and filed where needed.

1. Get a consult cable and scan for codes. 2. Leak down test to check if valves & rings are sealing. 3. If no error codes, get wideband and check AFR/Lambda That 5th plug looks to have oil on it so either rings or valve stem seal could be the issue These cars are 30 years old and probably have not had all scheduled maintenance done and been flogged over their many owners. From failing optical sensors in CAS to blocked fuel filters. So many issues with them these days hard to diagnose with out seeing car in person.

So a vr30ddtt?? Yes looked into it. Waiting to see how the new Z goes first. Its been done a heap in the USA heaps, wiring is not to hard. Definitely budget well over 25k for a shop to do everything. Allow for small things like hoses, clamps, exhaust, bigger heat exchanger, even possible brake upgrade to meet engineering requirements. Allow something like this a few months to be done. If wanting power its easier to attach a blower, exhaust, fuel system or one of the BTW turbo kits and retune or buy just the inifiniti East Coast Customs don't really do conversion stuff any more but would be able to tune it or do the above work. Boys have been flat out and I know are pretty much booked for the rest of the year.

FYP 😜 I want to see the carnage The pulleys are a waste if just wanting fancy blue ones. Remove your current ones, clean them and get them anodized. Only time to change is when required to under drive power steering & alternator if spending alot of time in high rpm (ie...on race track)

As others have said an upgraded rad and stock fan & SHROUD will have no issues. If ever swap to electric fan use a quality spal or maradyne fan with a properly designed shroud. Biggest thing is bleeding the system properly to remove all air pockets, a vacuum bleeder does a pretty good job first time.

Sounds more like future proofing for more displacement 😁 How big were your headers again? What did you say??

Use to get a similiar noise on s14 with vct would make similiar noise. Could be nosiey VCT?