robbo_rb180

There's a lot of stuff for sale and it's not selling even significant price drops they still sit. The quality of some of the cars is questionable but even some cleaner examples aren't selling. Big thing as well is the demographic that generally wants these types of cars don't have extra dollars to throw around either. Wait til banks up loan repayments and rental home owners up rent, will see a lot of cars hit the market which would be a good time to purchase as market will be flooded so have more bargaining power. Super clean low km cars will sell but that is a very small niche market these days. Even samething with parts. With how inflated the market was seeing it come back to where it should be if not may see another drop soon. I have even considered buying a clean s14 for mid 30s as its a model I like and if right colour pops up may find I'll pull the trigger but again very niche thing being low km, condition, colour and mods. Look at my new race car, the guy I bought it off had no real interest besides me and I got an epic deal on that. Yes very niche thing but if no interest people will sell at reduced price. There's a few 32gtr for sale even at very reasonable money from stockish to decently modified. All just over 50k to 95k. They would have sold last year quickly. Also south of qld there's quiet a lot more recreational pharmacist's and kebab shops with money they need to "invest" so see more cars selling in those areas. Doses car will sell if put out there I reckon 45-60k depending on what power cruise/roll race event would be coming up as better to sell when events like that are on to make a bit more as be demand for it just need to put some et streets on the rear.

Yeah don't do it. Car is almost perfect and is easy to work on and modify. Park it in shed put a cover on it and let it sit there. Think you missed the market by 3-4 months for getting good money and not worth the hassle dealing with F*(ktards.

I've PM'd you For everyone following: There is definitely issue with more air and it wouldn't actually go into Idle as wasn't meeting all parameters so I have gone a Closed Loop idle and Ignition control conditions changed to hopefully get some good data. Reason was showing 10-25 as its targeting what is commanded on Ign 1 Table at those rpm. Adjusting offset won't help It only locks timing when setting the offset. Hopefully once throttle stop is adjusted and new file is loaded and logged we'll have him sorted.

The idle target is set too high in the tune 1300rpm and alidle day cycle is too high. When I am home tomorrow I'll modify a tune and send it to you then log it and we will get you sorted. Good work getting tps and timing done. Ecu wouldn't have been meeting idle conditions.

Had same problem with my rb25 manifold. Looked what studs were fowling and made those manifold holes a bit bigger with a die grinder. Should only take a few minutes to do.

@eric240sx we have was a while ago. To get the offset 100% right car needs to be running But get get ballpark as Duncan said justcat cranking. You add or subtract from the current -86 offset. I usually add 5 first time to see which way offset needs to go. Can easily see it on the balancer marks if you can't see the marks timing is way out. Ensure that there are no leaks in manifold, throttle body, iacv. Check all the grounds are attached from block to chassis and the one from the loom to the plenum is clean. Battery is charged. When checking the timing don't use the loop wire. Get an ignition lead to go between coil and spark plug and clip the reference lead on there. Will need a retune with the bigger housing but I can setup a lambda table so can do quick tune with it so can drive it to the tuner.

Could have ignition idle control setup, there may be a timing offset with temp and OP said they had touched IACV so could be a bit of everything making run poorly.

Give me an hour and can do a screen grab to follow duncans guide. Super simple to do. BUT don't drive it until set.

What's the end goal weekend cruiser/daily? 100% do all the bushes with whiteline rubber not other brands urethane. MCA are the way to go, yes more expensive but ride quality is better and support is great. Been running their x-r purples (current pro sports model) for 7 years no issues and do a lot of street and track driving. Even big 2800km roadtrips on shit roads it rides better than my 370z. I look at it this way takes say 4 months to save for cheaper ones then you don't like them then need to save for another 6 months to replace them with MCA. Better off waiting an extra month or 2.

Thats the info I needed, Legend. I better start looking for a decent LS conversion kit.

holinger, albins, OS88, HTG, PPG, Samsonas, Turbo 400, Powerglide....... Google Strongest r32/33/34 gearbox

They have been known to do more damage to the car than roos...... Insurance will cover repairs if you do hit one.

How do you find 3 & 4 gear with the 4.11? especially on race tracks. Looking at LS conversion for new car and hard to get info on the nissan 3.9, 4.08/4.11, 4.3 ratio with the 6speed

Get a consult adapter and check for error codes Borrow a set of good condition (brand new stock/splitfire or r35 kit not yellow/red/linglong) coils and see if that works Test fuel pressure by putting a gauge between the filter and reg Check tps voltage scales evenly and doesn't jump around OR take it to a mechanic who deals with 90s Japanese cars

Yep. Sure can will have that extension sorted by 2030😂 New motor is in the car. Need 2 fittings to finish oil cooler lines and still waiting on the priming pump to arrive.

wouldn't clearance to cam covers be an issues? by time theres adapter the also the TB motor?

That's some good info there. My new sr is 9.:1 comp, kelford 188a cams and gtx g2 2867 so should make a bit more and be almost as responsive 😁 Interested to see how it goes on track.

Nistune documnets also list them all https://nistune.com/docs/MAF_and_Consult_pinouts.pdf AND A guide from a user here

https://www.nzefi.com/product/nissan-afm-adapter-harness-r33-s2-to-z32/ Google is your friend over 20 years of information out there just search phrases and move key words until you find what you're after.

Replace the shocks then, probably be like $140-300 each depending on brand. Save up for decent quality coilovers.

This is what I've experienced with some of the mentioned brands Not all 200tw but gives a good range if doing street track/track stuff and prices at the time of purchase Advan a050 is super consistant until nothing is left (Multiple Track days & maybe 1200km street driving) $2400 July 2020 Nankang (AR1) will go off in round 12-18months (Multiple track days only, depending on number of heat cycles) $1000 Sept 2018 Hankook RS3 I found were consistent until around 2-2.5 years old down to wear indicators. (daily street and 2 years of sprint track events) $1400 June 2016 I've got the Nexen sur4g ($950 Sep 2021) on the sil80 at the moment and have done around 3000km street driving(road trip from Brisbane to Townsville), King of QR 2021, Lakeside drags & DTC day and a tarmac rally sprint. I have found them pretty good but you can feel the tyre moving around in certain conditions pushing them to the limit. I think is something to do with sidewall construction. The grip when giving it a boot full on the street is great and they hook up well for a car with 300kw and around 1300kg. Yet to have them in proper wet conditions so can't comment on that. Also have the Michelin pilot sport 4s on the 370z ($2200 Mar 2022). Around 6500km of street driving in all conditions, wet hill climb and King of QR 2022, Lakeside DTC day. In the wet they are amazing placed 6th out of 43 cars that day, lots of grip from the start and got better as it dried. At QR found they were consistent for 2 back to back hot laps of national circuit and pressures were stable once I got them right (running 34psi hot). For street fun stuff have been great on different quality of surfaces. For me now its finding a mix between cost vs performance and meeting a class rule for the street cars as we have pretty strict tyre rules for https://www.timeattack.com.au/ events especially street classes. For future I will be sticking with the Michelin for the 370Z and if available the Nexen for the Sil80 as both street cars. The track cars will be AR1/CR-S as I think they are good value where I get them.

Yep, they are bad. Theres a reason they are cheap and poor man pays 3 times................. Better off getting a lowered spring and shock replacement or save a bit longer and get MCA or something that is actually valved decently for street use.

Definitely do some research, will be very hard finding a converted car in Australia. Biggest issue is the tuning of the gearbox as from my research all the TCU are still really in testing. If wanting a bolt in solution a PPG sequential gearset is the easiest option for r33/34 boxes.

Diff lab may be able to help you out with rebuilding current diff and shimming it. [email protected] Phone: (07) 3077 6660 (urgent race team and tuning shop enquiries) or use the contact form or Email for general sales and service enquiries. Address: Coopers Plains QLD 4108 Australia (No public access. Race team, Tuning Shop and Courier only.)

Thats right its school holidays..... Troll level achieved.