robbo_rb180

I was running a relay so had direct feed from battery without voltage drop can wire 2 relays & low current through switch

Buy a Nexus and wire everything and do heaps of other stuff. Enough outputs for almost any engine setup

easy to use 2 switches & 1 relay. 12v+ to each side opposing & same with negative with centre to window motors Enjoy my paint wiring diagram

Damn old holdens. Good its sorted and home. Sure you could write a good book with all your adventures

4 port mac valve and a proper 3d wastegate duty cycle map, can go further with additional 4 & 5D depending how many other considerations you want like wheel speed and TPS At the moment probably best to stick with traditional wastegate as it works.

Good work Easy to trim fuel, build a Lambda/afr target map and can use the quick tune function to get it pretty good quickly but need to turn off any other trim tables.

If doing a DBW with ecu/loom can now do it on factory plenum https://www.iee.nz/product-page/rb26-drive-by-wire-system

go back to the front mount, install the Link and road tune the low load stuff, plenty of people can help like myself or @Dose Pipe Sutututu Depends where you live an experienced member may be able to help with the install & setup

Nah it's coming down. 7x9x4 3 bay is going in, just waiting on detailed quote. Going to put in a clear floor hoist 😁 How's your build going, been much more progress than what you put instagram?

Don't think a hoist will fit in here 😅 All moved down to Ipswich now. Got first hot hatch cup round at lakeside Saturday. Had a few problems with the getz running and it's stuck in Rockhampton at the moment so will be using a mates car. Also got 2nd place in class for last season sprints in Townsville and only doing 4 of 7 rounds which is cool.

What are you using the car for? I use a variety of setups from Dba4000 & Project Mu club racer to std disc with endless ME20 Race pads on the street are not nice and get lots of looks from others 😅

Use a multimeter to check for continuity from engine block to chassis and battery negative post to chassis. Sounds like a grounding issue. The factory ground straps are generally worn or not refitted properly after engine swaps/removal. I usually make 2 new ones and never have an issue again.

I replaced my starter end of last year with the oex and haven't had any problems. Just be aware there is 2 posts on the solenoid that the starter wire may work on one and not the other.

If change to a different condensor will need new lines & depending if drier is part of condensor like say a hilux. Be easier to just buy the factory replacement as depends where you go AC/Auto elecs can charge decent money for custom lines depending on what style/type are used. $1100 thats a straight swap is worth it, add new orings, compressor oil, drier & gas will be a decent outlay if not doing the replacement yourself but worth it.

Kelford would be the best option. More lift and not over hyped products from 2002. Email Kelford with what you want to achieve and get what they recommend, probably even do valve springs at same time.

Running rich will be a faulty o2 sensor, Idle control valve may be a bit sticky and require a clean for stable idle. Climate control maybe be the case of borrowing one from another member and testing it works in your car.

Bit late to the party mate with that. Haltech have been really adding heaps of stuff lately with this NSP update. Still waiting on the Mexico trip video........

Thought that too but its not.

So noticed didn't have that much oil pressure at load 35-45psi and was getting low when oil was hot (5-6psi). Pulled pump off cleaned it and shimmed it, only a small change in pressure 😪 Got a plan to sort it as need it ready for Japnats at QR 23rd April. Finished up the ducting and a few small bits today, its not perfect but will do. Loaded up and ready to start the move to Ipswich tomorrow

Don't buy that. Proper junk, inners wills be rusted and being an auto rb20. Life tip- if you don't have 50% more than what you pay for something you can't afford. This applies even more to used imports. (Housing doesn't count) You want a r34, import from Australia still rusty and crashed junk but have rb25.

Wow look at that after a quick google search........ http://www.trak-life.com/diy-350z-brembo-brakes-conversion-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-gts-gts-4/ @Dose Pipe Sutututu when you going to get back into doing some articles?

Make a list and start chipping away at it. Dash should be pretty easy compared to the rest.

25mm any more and need to move strut top location. Are you going to extend the rear lca too? Still haven't got pics yet, motor is out and fixing a few things.

They said in 2018 they had a contract with a national event for Sep 2021 and they scrimp on major infrastructure too. A lot of political stuff with it too.

I remember Jooga from when I was down there and he was drifting. Yeah keeping power conservative will be key to longevity. MA = Motorsport Australia (previously CAMS)