robbo_rb180

Do headers, intakes and Uprev. Depending on the engines condition will see a small gain of maybe 15-25kw depending on who tunes it, will be a big improvement in midrange. Cat back exhaust is pointless and just makes horrible noise.

Found the poly stuff would bind up on the lca bushes. Do it once and do it right like you have with the motor. How you go organising the roll cage?

Definitely do the bushes while you are there but go the whiteline rubber bush as I have found them better than poly bushes or just go to rose joint inserts. Hoists just make it so much easier to work on cars, smashed out a full service and tyre rotation in 40mins last week.

Hunt down a cracked s13 dash, sand it, fill the cracks with bog and then a coat of resin with black tint and then use an eBay kit to flock it. No need to keep heater/fan box just run plexi rear quarters with a duct to keep fresh air on you. Don't worry about the steps backwards be worth all the work once it's done

Going to rebuild it with fresh bearings, synchros and 3/4 selector upgrade. Hopefully gears are still good.

After the dyno pulled the plugs and swapped back to usual NGK and no more spark issues car went awesome. Did Targa Great Barrier Reef as navigator again in the commodore and took out Classic GT Class. Car is so much faster now with new engine and gearbox setup. Done a few events in the past few weeks, ended up driving to the sil80 all the way to Brisbane and back all on e85 around 3000km. Did a test day at Lakeside DTC with Skid Control car was solid all day with no issues then did King of QR had a few issues with manifold to turbo nuts coming off & loose and pumping the catch can with oil. Fixed it all and did all but one layout, besides those problems car was super quick and all on the nexen sur4g (200 treadwear) which was pretty good for a budget tyre. Lost the starter motor for the last session and had to be pushed to started to get out on track and back to the brother in laws 😅 VID_20210915_145404.mp4 Got back home and did a lot of maintenance with all fluids and filters changed. When draining the gearbox oil had a lot of material and a synchro clip come out so box will be out soon. Did the local hill climb and smashed my PB with a 59:43 which got me 4th outright and fastest rwd, got beaten by all the EVO's and a WRX. Been daily driving it and still pretty cool to cruise around in and am finding it more comfortable than the 370. Got the last sprint for the year next week, wanting to hopefully better my PB and maybe take the class win for the year.

Here's oem intake vs plazmaman short runner inlet on Rb25 neo and td06 Intake manifold was the only change.......

Call CRD or the like in Australia and get a motor shipped. Known to produce quality cars and could most likely help with tuning it. Getting a better product for your money than a Japanese brands crate engine.

done my engine loom as went wire in and wanted to learn how to make a quality loom. Not cheap especially if you factor your own time as Duncan mention. Done a few body looms for friends and not worth the effort if what you have works keep it just depin what your not using.

Otaku/rep/copies notorious for splitting Any short runner manifold will be a performance hit in the low/mid range, even the plazmaman one. Used Genuine Greddy and lost all low/mid torque, Quality was good 2007/2008 Currently using Plazmaman Plenum on std runners. Got all my low down torque back and Quality is great 2018

Probably not but should enquire about rally rego, that's what we have here. Too much heat, vibration probably never looked at the why. So it survived the dyno with someone who has a lot of experience and knowledge. That's all just on gate spring and solenoid just keeping it closed until 3500. Any more boost and would blow spark out. Going to leave it for now and look at upgrading coil packs, alternator and clutch in the future.

Good effort getting it out. Always good to look how everything looks after a few years. The Nissan auto is good enough to daily. Had a look at those videos and it looks like the zf is a great thing for track, will look to see if there is a way to have a "clutch" as still want the ability to go drifting.

So after cleaning up the wastegate went back to the dyno with a tank of ethanol and did a bit of constant load tuning and got the fuel table good, went to do a power run and only made 4psi of manifold pressure. checked hose and did another pull to 4000rpm to see if happened again. Cracked the shits loaded it up and straight back in the shed. Gave it a day and investigated a bit more.................... Found the issue causing no boost........ Catalytic converter had collapsed after I had pulled the turbo off So cat is now high flowed. Decided to put rego back on it as got over towing it 7km to the dyno so now have a tank full of e85 and dyno booked for the morning. Been driving it daily for 2 days with no issues so far so will see how much the setup will make then do a few runs at lower boost levels to have a variety of Wastegate DC tables I can use.

Already got an automatic nissan, don't really want another.

will have a look, the dct would be more for the "clutch" ability for me. I've been looking at it as I know my standard gearbox isn't going to hold up and figured may as well upgrade it with a rb25 box from my sil80 and put the dct behind the rb

how do those auto's handle track duties? DCT is the way to go as I found the auto "different" to drive

the brembos are definitely enough for s chassis, never have an issue with my set on the cars. Some cooling ducts to the fronts and they will be good for longer sessions That hgt kit is the way to go now, garage7 has gotten simon michelmore's 86 2jz conversion sorted. https://fb.watch/7CL_d4rz1v/

theres kaaz, cusco, tomei if going the miiler/cig locker going to bad

Look at a 1.5way if going to be street driving https://justjap.com/products/nismo-gt-pro-1-5-way-lsd-diff-centre-nissan-skyline-stagea-m-t-4wd

Good they have used the vr30 but disappointed no dct option and its still using a lot of 370 underpinnings. If they can keep them around the 60K price range will be great value. Love the look of it in blue a set of work xd9 in white would look mint.

so don't need to remove teeth from abs ring

You could use a frequency divider to help drop it as I am getting bits together to wire a factory VR sensor to my Link and found a vr to hall converter with divider that I am hoping to get soon https://www.vems.com/vr-to-hall.html

*VERY Average and over priced. Save up a bit longer and go MCA you will be a lot happier in the long run

being an older platinum would be start from a base file and go from there. @SnekDoc where are you located?

yep I could have built another car for whats in my setup currently. PC, Monitor, Sim setup around $7k but I've gotten a lot of use. If had a track that could use weekly I would sell my setup and put the money into driving.