robbo_rb180

Yes still got my first 180sx from 2007, not much left of the original car. A lot of people I know too sold their cars to start a family or buy a house. Seems like everyone getting back in to them has gotten to a point in life where kids are grown up and mortgage is doing well.

Thats pretty good, we all need someone like that in our life. Yeah a friend rolled a car at ebisu lucky had a cusco cage but it bent badly and was stuffed. New cars are great for safety but still would want a cage at those speeds.

That report will hopefully open a lot of peoples eyes to safety and what can happen at lower speeds. This is why I have that s15 to put a driveline in. I want to be safe and even in the 180sx with half cage, seat and 6 point harness I still feel its sketchy at Lakeside. Have a proper chat with AGI or another fabricator. There will be a way to have a decent cage and make it tight to the interior.

Try this and see how you go as its what we found when doing the tyre testing. They will not do back to back laps. Tested at QR sprint and clubman layouts and Lakeside. 1 warm up lap 1 fast lap 2 cool down laps 1 fast lap 1 In lap This worked very well and were within 1.5 tenths on the 2nd fast lap. They are very sensitive to sudden heat changes and do not come back in a session. Require cool down and go the next session. You will be faster than on the ar1 guaranteed.

You'll like the CR-S. They are great but are really a 1 lap wonder at full noise depending how you drive. Faster than my old A050 over 1 Lap but not over a 5 Lap session. Depending how hot it is on the grip day I've found starting pressure 26-27psi was good.

Yeah the joints weren't up for it especially when you read the tech stuff. Barriers weren't there really to stop cars. The data from the car is interesting to see and how the can interpret it. The new stuff that is coming for cage rules will affect everyone. Need to be 50mm from memory from occupant to bar. Especially the smaller cars.

Welcome back, A little bit has changed since then. Who would have thought they would go that way.

Yeah I understand that, I have had a low speed front corner impact at 70kph into a concrete barrier once. It hurt with bruising and proper concussion for a week, No cage, 3 point seat belt and helmet. The big one in the getz at over 100kph, fine no problems small bruise from HANS on my chest. State level 6 pt cage, winged seat, HANS, 6 Point harness. These are the current regs for cages. Anyone that does cages will reference this. https://motorsport.org.au/docs/default-source/manual/general-requirements/2023/2023-schedule-j.pdf?sfvrsn=219c2eab_8 I suspect a few things will change in regard to bolt in cages and joints. Have a good read of this and you can see why there will be changes. https://motorsport.org.au/docs/default-source/media-accreditation/targa-tribunal/2022-targa-review-panel-report_28-feb-2023---public-report.pdf Imagine coming unstuck turn 1 at Eastren Creek and hitting kitty litter sideways then rolling at 150+kph. Can't put a price on your life. I've done some high risk shit and look back going WTF was I thinking doing that even with silly amount of training. It was f**king exciting as shit when it went right.

Time to find a proper race car with a proper cage maybe......... Proper harness is good and can wear a HANS device too. They wouldn't want to build something with removable bars as won't pass MSA regs.

Yes they work well for the Blower guys as most already have a w2a cooler in the manifold. A decent reservoir of 10-12L helps too. Depending what you doing with your car it's an option but cost vs reward a quality a2a (pwr or plazmaman) will be better. If drag racing take a few bags of ice in an esky and chuck on intake and intercooler before runs or run an extra injector for methanol before the intercooler (a quality ecu with safety for methanol level and pressure is highly recommended when doing this)

https://www.google.com/search?q=18x10.5+%2B18+on+r33gtr&rlz=1C1VDKB_en-GBAU953AU953&sxsrf=AJOqlzWmd5_6pW5AIkDWCNefOrfjG1OrKA:1678019283629&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj7rM765MT9AhUP8XMBHWKXDQwQ_AUoAXoECAIQAw&biw=1826&bih=952&dpr=1.25

yes been done heaps. Google it

Look at what fittings are required and make your own. A lot neater and can sleeve them or be like @Dose Pipe Sutututu and be baller with hardlines https://aeroflowperformance.com/ httphttps://www.earls.com.au/ s://speedflow.com.au/

https://www.rimtuck.com/search/datasheet&make=Nissan&model=R31-R34+Skyline+4dr&sort=6 Have a look here or start looking back through the thread from pages 1

Good tackling the wiring.het the 02 in there as that's easy. How far off drivable after finishing wiring?

Been slow doing updates here but already done a few events this year and upgrades seem to be happening as parts needed. So to start off the year I went over the car with a thorough bolt check, grease bolts in bushes, ziptied bit up and redid all the fluids. Found one of the caliper bolts had decided to back so put a spanner to it and .......it wasn't moving. Some patience with wd40, 1/4 drive impact socket and a rattle gun had it out, The thread in the caliper was not bad and a tap cleaned out the debirs. New bolts with a washer and no problems since. Got a new windscreen fitted as old one had a lot of chips and developed a crack last time out. Fresh screen was sourced and fitted locally. Next up were new tyres the old A050 were well worn and 2 were almost slicks. I had a choice either spend the dollars and go another set or try the Nankang CR-S. I have been part of the testing of the CR-S so I know the Pro's and Con's of both tyres and with the aim of focusing on time attack I went with the Nankang CR-S, having a hook up for them also helps. At the same time I got another wheel alignment. With all this done I headed out to Lakeside Park for a sprint session with a few of the Skid Control crew to pretty much go get that monkey off my back after my last visit on the whole track.......... Weather was looking not great through out the morning then the organisers thought it would be great to let people take passengers at 70% pace on a wet circuit, one written off 2023 BRZ and damaged BMW later caused a hold up so lots of waiting. Finally got out on track and scrubbed in the tyres for 2 laps then had a go at a fast lap. I think I did a 62 with a heap of traffic, which isn't slow but isn't fast. Tyres were great and I was feeling pretty good after that. Headed back out for next session knowing if there was no traffic I could go a second quicker. Did a decent warm up lap then went for it, seeing green on the racechrono I kept pushing and was up a lot by Hungry corner. Coming down the hill then across the line I saw green and a 59.89. Finished up the session and cruised back in to the pits to one of my mate stopping me in the pit lane and told me the official time of a 59.0!!!!! https://www.facebook.com/100000026398820/videos/568597401864367/ excuse the belts in front of the camera In car of the lap https://www.facebook.com/100000026398820/videos/3462819007280321/ So after that I decided it was time for new brake rotors and pads. I had been planning to get Endless ME20 but non in the country or Japan until at least end of May so went with Project Mu RC09 pads and the usual DBA4000 rotors. Easy fit up and done in a few hours. Wheels got a good scrub too All this was in preparation for Time Attack round 1 at QR. the old brakes wouldn't last 1 session. First session I used to bed in the brakes and get a feel for them, towards the end of the 5 laps I got a vibration through the steering and pulled of cooled it down with a few laps out back of pits. Car really need me to give it throttle to move too......... Got into pits and no visible signs. Jacked it up and took off the wheels, deceided to crack the caliper bleed nipple and pressuirsed fluid came out so went and bled the system, brakes felt good, quick spanner check, refitted wheels and re torqued the nuts. Session 2 got a good warm up lap in and went for it on the first lap but missed my brake marker then forgot to down shift to 4th quickly, slightly turned in late at turn 1 but was up on racechrono, turn 2 was good through dipper I was a bit late on brakes got the apex but didn't stay to the right enough for the left up hill managed to get the apex with a good exit. Down towards the next corner I nailed the braking and turnd in got the apex, then left into the final corner but turned in too early and ended up having to double apex but got on the power early enough. Crossed the line with a 57.29 on racechrono. Thought I would go for another fast lap, nailed turn 1 this time but all of a sudden got the shake in the steering again 😬 Pulled off the track layout so session wasn't held up. Ended up with official time of 57.26 which I am happy with and qualified for Holy Grail lap time going sub 58. Got back to pits with same issue. A few calls and messages to people and looks like return valve failed on the BMC, a GKTeck/Holfords one. Seems they don't like the heat. As wel as the brakes the coils were getting hot causing a misfire too so pulled the pin on it. The one proper lap I got So already have bought genuine BM57, Taarks r35 coil kit and a Race Box Mini for better data. Parts should turn up next week, get them fitted and then head back out for round 2 at Lakeside and better my PB there.

https://jhhracing.com.au/ https://www.gtautogarage.com.au/ https://101motorsport.com.au/ they are the 3 big ones that come to mind.

Previously ran a greddy and q45. Had poor drivabilty down low. Either go stock with adaptor or DBW. OR Plazmaman plenum and DBW, highly recommend that as totally changed my car with lots more torque everywhere.

15-50 Penrite 10tenths around 30psi at idle at 90c Coolant temp but thats after a run. I'd be talking with who is building engine and go with their recommendation.

I've been running one for over 10 years. Never an issue with pressure and seen plenty of track time. no point trying to reinvent the wheel

Welcome, Should be able to jump on the motorsport Australia website (formly CAMS) and see what events are on locally andcan get the basic speed licencethere. The bend or Shepparton deca would be the 2 closet places to you?

Welcome Matt, That looks like a tidy example. What are plans for it?

You will need to cut out part of your rubber engine mount. I tried running a gt3076r but it fouled on my chassis rail (S chassis)

@funkymonkey do it We need @Dose Pipe Sutututuin a BMW so we can stop hearing about him wanting a BMW

Okay, well go find the best example of a r32 gts4 that fits criteria and budget 😁 If your going to do any wiring/tuning stuff I highly recommend the HPA courses. Painting is painful but all in the prep. Fabrication of alloy and stainless is fun but time consuming Composites are cool but way too time consuming Its rewarding when you do it yourself. There is rumour of a dct to awd adapter being made. From everyone I know thats done a dct swap the turbolamik is the way or wait for the Australian version from Mectric Motorsport still cheaper than a samsonas 😛 Wait out on ecu as Link and Motec both have something new coming. Its okay to bin the rb20 for a k24 Find that questionable income Happy modding and good luck with bad choices