robbo_rb180

Look good, I am more interested in that cast manifold they are testing....

So.......... Morgan Park was a fail on the brakes. One fast lap and still shudder. Had another booster from a s14 here so put it on and straight away with a quick blocky was so much better. Now I have a good work area again I spent the time to go right through the car, bolt check and marking everything. Found a notchy front wheel bearing so replaced it. Full fluid check too. Felt better after doing this as hadn't been done since January. With all this done next opportunity I had to drive was at Lakesides All Asian Day with 2 sprint sessions. Was a bit cautious on the warm up and first fast lap, felt good so sent it. Did a 59.07 then back to back 59.0's second session. Brakes felt great but took an extra lap to come up to temp. Was fastest car there by a considerable amount and shocked a few by how simple the car is. My mate with his mazda 2 was doing 68's making some fast cars look silly in the corners. All this was prep for Time Attack round 3 at Queensland Raceway. Was a cold morning and track took a while to warm up. Used the first session as warmup. The next 2 sessions went and ran 59.0's on clubman layout so was pretty happy as been chasing that for a while, there were mistakes on all laps but got a solid base to work from now. Car was great all day with only a small bit of oil from one of the side diff seals. Made a video Thats it for now, give it a wash ready for next event on the 22 June.

Why not use something like this? http://www.radiumauto.com/FCST-Fuel-Cell-Surge-Tank-P1497.aspx small high volume low pressure lift pump and 2x 400/425/460lph TI or bosch 39/40mm pumps be plenty OR 2x this would work with an adaptor fitting https://www.prospeedracing.com.au/AEM-400LPH-Metric-Inline-High-Flow-Fuel-Pump-50-1009

AVOID BRAKES DIRECT Have stuffed around so many mates in the past 18months and hearing more stories of bad customer service.

Best value........... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/165900019651?hash=item26a06967c3:g:6qEAAOSwSOdjqVhv&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8C%2BdCsusVox3XxUhK3ZiFvts0Iy55uejoqdGDtbN3KFBlyCJ0Iw4j7sYBjppoq5%2B75RTWHeDLJoGT76cJNyYGgmiwFrHXMJ4M%2Fn4vkA8VO90YnBfBql2IhQnc5wmbNXQrnwFpLm6FLuSsbFC6BnXaSa%2FwVbXEB8hmMs9jk52ycwVMNQ5L%2Fxlc1q0UhKZuAhTalsCpmXv9aCGYDc2UCgnZ8FalU9wP%2FC%2F5Ut4YNQGTxnxahXiQgDixf5U73w8pWGNLnx0t2UJWtrC%2BDJfR7KTivVsocucxrdOwioWSO%2FcHhtSDLqhm6eIPFLDF0Q5VcsccQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMvOePnY1i I have a EVO brembo setup and its around $6k with quality rotors, pads and refurb. Will only fit behind certain 17s so recommend 18 inch wheel with big brake clearance faces. Any brake setup will also require a BMC upgrade, possible new lines, may have ABS issues and a possible hand/park brake relocation.

I've been buying my kits off Kmak aero, seem to be better than some of the origin stuff I've seen https://www.kmakaero.com.au/shop-kmak-aero-products/r33-skyline-aero/

probably damaged ignition barrel. Check for continuity between the wires

get some extra fuel line and a T piece, a 0-100 psi guage. Ziptie it to windscreen wiper or somewhere you can see whilst driving. For resistance leave one end on battery Negative post then check all cables to chassis and engine and engine block. You can even check the resistance of the fuel pump windings, I don't know what they are for a stock fuel pump.

I've done tint, seat covers, dash & floor mats on the 2 appliances I've had new and the 370z I had ceramic coated and PPF lower front & skirts. Ceramic is easy to do. Good wash, clay bar and apply. PPF is very expensive to do a whole car and only worth on something is expensive $160+k as around $12-16k to do.

Also put a fuel pressure guage on the fuel line before the regulator, could be loosing fuel pressure as the car warms up. The pump would be failing, heating up and slowing down flow. Check all the grounds too, check the resistance using a multi meter P1320 being ignition/crank signal issue

Have you plugged in and looked at what sensors are doing with something like consult? Can you write a list of parts changed as that first post is difficult to read, separate Paragraphs help massively. Reset Crank Angle sensor timing and unplug the knock sensor. The key to any diagnosis is data and using consult will high light if its a sensor issue. Throwing parts at it is just guessing.

Yeah I am working the rally sprint Thursday. I'll be cruising around the pits and in field area. How good are afternoons at race tracks

Car testing went well Friday, only did a handful of laps but stays cool and brakes work. Doing some tuning too with boost control and sorting a few areas of fuel map. That confident I haven't even unloaded it, straight into the shed on the trailer still. Bring on Morgan Park Wednesday

So getting a set of rally tyres 😅 Good effort, your getting heaps of driving in lately. Maybe try something like this for the camera https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32907849445.html?pdp_npi=2%40dis!AUD!AU%248.00!AU%246.56!!!!!%402101e7f616840494441445251e8936!65967900517!btf&_t=pvid:5dd83128-542f-4630-97eb-e4eff08408e1&afTraceInfo=32907849445__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1684049444&spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.mainProduct I know quadlock also do something similar https://www.quadlockcase.com.au/products/vibration-dampener?variant=32024967610481

😅

A few updates in the race car New radiator is in, required a few small mods to the shroud but all sorted and holds pressure Made up an aluminium foot plate to raise feet up so be more comfortable held in by rivnuts and some aluminium angle also swapped to a lighter battery from the old getz. A few less kg and lower weight. Just need to check tyre pressures and good to go for a test day Friday before Morgan Park next week.

A show car or "bunnings" car park meet car. A proper show car is around 150K-300K these days I can tell you right now its not going to be 6K, closer to 20K........... Had to adjust plenty of customers ideas what it really costs. ECU $3k plus Sensors will be over $600, wire, connectors, sheathing, relays PLUS TUNE easy $7k Genuine turbo and gaskets $4k Even at my pricing fuel system would be over $1600

easy $20K these days to do it properly my lateset sr20 setup is around $15k doing all the fab, wiring and mechanical myself with products that were heavily discounted. buy BMW M2 enjoy life or for the financially challenged buy a bf falcon and slap a pulsar on and be done with it if only wanting to chop ya mates

i have 300+KW at the wheels stock exhaust manifold with external gate mod. gt3076 .86 rear housing 45mm turbosmart gate 1000cc injectors top feed onversion link ecu walbro/TI 460lph pump Fuel turbosmart reg 3 inch exhaust fmic 307kw on 16psi on E85 super simple and easy to replicate You don't need an inlet manifold or throttle body. If anything 98% of inlets cause drivability and torque loss. Pretty sure @Dose Pipe Sutututu made over 400kw on stock inlet

Proper junk stay away. Turbo setup is always budget dependant.......

I've been running e85 in my 180sx for well over 8 years. Replaced filter sock after first 3 months then around 4 years later. Fuel filter gets replaced every 12ish months. Never had an issue. When stored for 6months or more always had a full tank with a bottle of additive.

Thought needed pdm for that function. When I asked link said it couldn't. Cheers for that info.

Only on g4x Get the external ethrottle unit, have used them on old g4 with no issues. Can find them cheaper than prp.

What track? Tracks in qld have a few different levels

I want the Gr86 not gr yaris 😉 Yeah sucks for him as was a great car, had been in it a few times.