robbo_rb180

Gtx2867 If decide to go for more power will be ready to go for around 270-280kw and be super responsive.

I am now running a Aeroflow 5047 .64 rear (gtx gen2 2867 specs) Previously ran a garret gtx gen2 2867 .82 rear The .64 is the way to go as a lot more responsive. I also run a stock 5 speed but its struggling and eating syncro's. Car makes 220-270kw pending boost level.

Physically the same but it won't work as different internal and bias. Get it rebuilt as suggested above.

Just upgrade it all to this https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-nissan-skyline-r32-a-c-air-conditioning-replacement-kit-r134a-fpg-039

Or try one of these, have used both in the past and work fine. https://www.jaycar.com.au/speedo-corrector-module-for-cars/p/AA0376 https://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=1192/mode=prod/prd1192.htm

So got hold of a boost leak test kit and tested the system.......... Air is pushing past turbo seals through the oil drain hose into the motor and boost solenoid was leaking too so that explains alot....... So now waiting for a new turbo to arrive then need to cut off cast elbow and weld to new comp cover as new turbo is garrett based but another brand, not keen on swapping housings just incase there is differences. Will update more once it's here but hopefully can get it sorted by Friday then can book dyno time.

The 86 looks like a heap of fun to drive, shame it sounds so bad. Wire in a 2 port USB charger and run a cable for gopro and phone. Remember gopro doesn't like heat so will have issues using for extended periods without airflow over it. I am lucky too get 5-10 mins on a hot day (30+ outside)in the race car.

Pull the head and see what the damage is. Another rb25 is the go. Rebuild another motor with rods & pistons, oil pump and oil mods. Enjoy the rest of your ownership stress free. The hassle of selling would be more stressful than building a motor

Call NPC and have a chat with them. They will build a clutch to suit your requirements. Done this for a few different cars and they've nailed it every time. The last custom one was a ceramic sprung centre for a race car and pedal feel was better than the stock clutch. Remember if it needs to be rebuilt got local support too. Other place would be Direct Clutch in Brisbane. Lots of knowledge and quick service too. Shame Jim Berry retired but you need a spare hour or 3 when you called him.

Well that sounds like I'll be seeing you there next year. Is it worth going to the slick and developing the car around that? How much more brake do you need? is it a pad or caliper/rotor limitation? Its a hard one as I imagine they want to see fast and well presented cars. Being a global event now the base class rules need to be a bit open especially for newer cars, a base car cost cap would be the best way to help that. The cost of the event these days you need some financial assistance either in $$$ or product/support so sponsors being on cars is required to justify it. Maybe limiting the size of the branding is key, they do it to other tyre manufacturers that sponsor drivers. Look up the guy that won clubsprint.... Should have been in open class by what he normally races. I would say 60% of clubsprint is still the average track guy and some only drive a few events a year. Again @bcozican awesome effort, you definitely have a few stories for the future.

Thats a lot of driving which is great, only way to get faster. Good on you for supporting the smaller events, I miss the smaller club stuff. Hopefully can get a spot at Morgan Park, the series is usually booked out a year ahead. If you don't hear anything by next week, I can give Jonno a prod to contact you.

I like them but I also understand their quirks........ Sensitive to sudden heat changes especially towards the end of their life span, need to get pressures right from the start. Don't heat cycle them too many times similar to AR1. They do wear a bit funny and I suspect thats from how they are constructed. Definitely not a 200 tread wear. The outside shoulder I suspect is a softer compound from the way these have worn compared to my old A050's. I have to run 4.2 degrees of camber so not roll the shoulder too. compared to the A050. Lap time wise they are faster than the A052 over 1 Lap. If the price difference in a set was $200 I would go A052 but anything more than $400-500 CRS all the way.

thanks, Yeah have used project mu rc09 and something else, endless me20, elig and initima, QFM over the years in different cars. The endless ME20 is the next set I'll get, I tried getting some at start of the year but non were available for months. I drive a few different cars with them and they work well from cold and super consistent. I generally will pinch fronts and I can't really tell when its going to happen.

Got video edited and uploaded

After all the fixes headed out to QR for Time Attack rnd 4. Weather was good and track was good until around 10:30ish then too much sun and it went away. Usual plan of using the first session to warm the car up and make sure everything was good. Tested the second boost table and was a bit too spicy around 5500rpm and hit map limit. Its pretty low around 250kpa. Checked all pressures and bled down to usual of 28-29 hot depending what corner of the car, no leaks and no wierd noises so was happy. Second session I left boost on gate pressure and felt pretty confident of how car was so went for it. Was up .450 before last corner and I stuffed it by coming in a bit quick and the tyre just being there and also on exit getting on the throttle too early and getting all the boost. A decent controlled slide but lost all my time BUT I did set a new PB by 0.02 so thats a win but the supra I've been battling rocked up with new bridgestone re71s and went 0.2 quicker than me. Came in and did usual checks but did a quick change on the second boost map to avoid another limit. Third session was pretty much pointless, tyres were past their best and I cooked turn 1 and under steered which knocked on to turn 2 with more understeer, backed off and tried to cool it all down but damage was done and just more understeer at turns 1 and 2, used rest of the session to improve dipper onto middle straight corners but not much to gain with cooked tyres. Let the car cool down and missed a session on clubman. First lap in the next session car felt great, tyres were good into turn 1 and was up around 0.2 by dipper into turn 4 but had a decent slide on turn 5 and tyres were gone. Was around 0.5 off PB and with the track going away also called it. Got to chase a newer porsche but backed of when I caught it as wouldn't let me past So after the event I was going back through the logs and noticed that the car was still laggy. Full boost at by 5000rpm, theres no leaks anywhere so went back through all my data from the years and found with the old motor was only getting full boost by 4200-4300rpm. This is weird as the turbo is a gtx2867 gen2 with a .64 rear housing and I expect some extra lag with cams.......... So go back through some parts orders and make sure its a .64 rear, yep all good. Go check the car and yep it a .86 rear housing which explains a few things wish I had checked that 4 years ago. Anyway I have found a .64 rear that I am going to swap too as would rather more mid range and can still make decent top with a smaller rear. This is also in preparation for Noosa Hill Climb which I decided to enter as a heap of mates are all going up and would like to drive something different. With that I have ordered new tyres to be fitted and will get the alignment redone as the steering wheel hasn't been exactly straight since the small off at Morgan Park. Also before that I wanted to corner weight the car to see what it really weighs and if there is room for improvement as I am chasing hundredths at this point at QR. First time doing this so its been slow, started off with this Ended up here after around 4 adjustments, theres a small amount I could gain with another adjustment to get a 52/48 front rear split and cross around 49.6% Car without me and gear in it. Pretty good not cutting it up. And picked up my new hoist too, went a Happ45 this time. Organised for a mate to install in first week of October Got a small test day Friday to scrub the tyres and test handling before swapping turbo housing.

that would be great to see on track Yep, got it out last Thursday. New PB on sprint layout by .02 No more boost leak issues so car is hard to get out of turn 6 again. Tyres were proper dead and past their best. Will maybe have video up tomorrow. Will do a write up late tonight with more info and whats happening.

Just delete them and run rubber heater hose, I went to supercheap and bought a few different types and fittings. Don't know what from as was a long time ago. Boostdoc or Frenchys do a heater hose kit these days. Or make your own.........

Great to see you back out there. The car is super tidy.

Hey mate, Google car clubs motorsport australia, we are part of one in ipswich. Classic and Muscle car club ipswich. Member of a club, Organise an inspection with club delegate, head into transport. Car must be 30 years old, can only be driven 18km from home for maintenance and any authorised events. Cheers, Rob @PranK can you move this to QLD thread please

Go 2 piece, its worth the $$$$. I have a 1 piece in my rb25 sil80 and its always had a weird frequency issue. I have a new 2 piece in the race car I am driving thursday so will update then. Some events require a tailshaft loop for 1 piece so easy to go 2 piece, one less hassle. Also only need to do front half with a new yoke.

on track from 8:30-9 Work car would be fine, a few tesla's should be out there

Thursday day event. Plenty of spots left to enter 😉

Car is all ready for Thursday QR Time Attack round 4 So I had a few little things to sort and thought I'll pull the engine. Start removing bits and found the hose from block to catch can just hanging there, it sits under the heat shield so can't see it. First win. Pull the tailshaft to replace gearbox rear seal and pull the diff to replace side seal. With that done thought i'll have a good look at the tail shaft. The yoke was very pitted and a decent wear mark, Uni's were all notchy. Tried finding some uni's from a bearing shop but at $400+ and they are staked to need a certain type of uni joint. I thought a shop should be able to get it sorted for around little bit more so rang around for a price to get uni's but since non replaceble and need to "see it" all were around $1200 and one place wanted to build a one piece, no thank you. Found a shop that was happy to do it, new yoke, centre bearing and the 3 uni's, $900 awesome. Got it back and went to fit it........... yep 7mm to long and was fowling the gearbox dust cover so went back and they sorted it pretty quick with no fuss. Next up was the cast elbow. My brother had a sleeve made up as housing was 2.25 and elbow 2.5. Slipped it on and welded it, got the elbow slipped over and welded then the billet clamp. Turbo had to come off ad no studs came out so another win. Fitted turbo back up, measured up the cold pipe and cut what needed to be removed for the other side of the billet clamp. With 3 Tacks done went to do a 4th and blew a hole in the pipe......... Called it quits for the day at that point. With a day off from it and a hurry up email from event organiser got back into today. Cleaned up the blowout, cleaned everything, drop down to a 1.6mm tungsten and 6 cup finished up welding the cold pipe, Turned out ok. Its sealed and functional. started the car up to rebleed coolant and warm up ready for an oil change. Dropped oil and all looks good but the smallest amount of bearing material. I cut filter apart and nothing in it bar a small amount in bottom of housing. Guessing this is normal for what this engine is doing. Dropped gear box oil and well I found why having trouble shifting. So much syncro material so did the right thing and put in new GL4 oil and ignored that. Only got 3 rounds left for the year so maybe 15-18 proper laps. Diff oil looked good and replaced it with no issues. also made a drain hose up for the catch can so don't have to take it out to drain. Had plenty of spare fittings so its tucked nicely against the chassis rail. All that is left to do is a quick wash, top off fuel and load up. Also started mocking up where I want the hoist to go, need to mod the cross beam to make it work but a mate is coming to install it early October so no more working on the ground soon.

Sounds like you have the process nailed for a good launch. 8hp70 conversion time and enjoy trans brake launches with awesome fuel economy.

Yeah car cost and tool/equipment investment is one cost I haven't listed but can say the car itself is around $34k PLUS my time as the only thing I haven't done myself is the run in tune and build this motor. Can add the sil80 cost in there too...... Back when I first got into motorsport more around 2012/2013 I was lucky to do maybe 4-5 club events of either sprints or drifting a year at around $500-600 for a day out. Which is still cheap in my eyes. 2018 is when I think it started to ramp up as I finally had the time to do more. Can also add the 3 Targa GBR events too as a Navigator, those cost a lot. Last year Targa Tas was going to cost $30k to have a good go at it. The other costs that could be added are tow vehicle and trailer, my sim setup (revision 3 in 10 years) so easy another 65-70K. Shed build too which is way over initial budget. I'll probably at the end of the year do a per lap cost too as that too me is a number which will be interesting. Especially since time attack is all about 1 lap pace. More so wanting info for others out there to see what the cost really is, instead of what if or I heard this amount.