robbo_rb180

Hi Ian, A quick google came up with these pins https://www.lpiracing.com/store/pc/Brembo-Guide-Pin-F40-F50-Caliper-Sold-Each-takes-2-per-caliper-p85055.htm I have found there's a few different retaining clips for the brembo's similar to this or with a r clip If you upgrade the disk size it will require new brackets to space the caliper out further. For brake lines measure the thread in the brembo brake fitting and check against what you currently have. Can generally get a local brake shop to make custom lines or see if HEL do a set https://auto.helperformance.com/

so you want recommendation on LSD? Google sau.com.au gtr front diff upgrade

Have a look at using midi fuse and thicker quality wire. You generally rate a fuse 50% higher of continuous draw so a 40-45a fuse is what required for the 400+L Walbro/TI pumps. This is why you generally see a lot of race cars with bosch 044 style pumps due to less current draw. Can also go a 40a/50a bigger relay or switch to a solid state with a finned heat sink.`

Run a swirl pot, will remove all the air from system. I did that and never had an issue. I drill and taped the 2 light green circled points and put in bolts with copper washer, can also use as bleeders.

@Dose Pipe Sutututu has done hard line. When using braided hose need to have long arc's for bends and plan the run with the right fitting to start and finish then use P clamps to retain it for long runs and also use a protective sleeving where there is potential for rubbing. Done hundreds of lines in 15 years and only had one line rub through this year from rocks getting between the hose and cross member it was run along.

The parts are all manufactured overseas except the golds, but all assembly is done in Brisbane. Contact MCA Suspension they can build you a set that will work exactly how you want. Won't need sway bar upgrade either. They can also supply multiple spring rates for same set of dampers as that's what I use to do for different events. The MCA are rebuildable and annual maintenance is recommended (strip, clean and regrease bodies).

So when fitting a g35 1050 and quaife sequential?? The bogan cruise ship going to modded any further? Keep an eye on here for drag and drive event https://www.facebook.com/groups/314009295848803/?hoisted_section_header_type=recently_seen&multi_permalinks=1104579606791764

Being a 4/4 Injector/Ignition drive will have to run batch fire and wasted spark. will run out of I/O too Look at a plugin (Xtreme top board) or a storm (No DBW or Traction control) The monsoon is cheap as very entry level and basic. If budget is an issue look at an older G4+ as they are great value and heaps of features. The closed loop DBW/Idle and cruise control can have issues sometimes with them

try Kudos Motorsport A mate bought all new boot trims through them earlier this year

Come up to qld for drag and drive. The road trip events are great as have been to a few as passenger/crew. I'm probably going to do one in the 370z for some fun.

What ended up being the issue? New shed? How big ?

Thanks, yeah good to have done it. Awesome hanging out and chatting, looks better in the car. Yep, relatively small issues compared to others. Party package is going to be rowdy when turned up. Massive amount of racing and heaps of small test days too. Did pretty well for the issues I had and how hard I pushed the car. Won't be going as hard on it next year. New VET setup is mint and what I needed for this car. Its in for the first time, washed the engine bay and stripped everything out. Need to cut and weld the lip on the firewall as cam cover and factory cam sensor blank fowl and give the tunnel a bit of a tap with the hammer. Tunnel needs to be cut to fit shifter too. There's a bit of fab work to do which is going to get a bit fiddly for coolant hose plumbing. The wastegate doesn't fit and need massage the strut tower or work out a solution to clock it better but that affects the hot side pipe. Engine loom I have won't work, coils and injectors are good just everything else needs to be lengthened and it needs a few things added. Will have to work out an oil cooler and filter block setup then redo a few fuel lines.

Last Thursday was the last round of the Time Attack series. It was a hot day and not great for tyres. Was the first time running the new QR Switchback layout, its totally different and a great challenge which a lot of people don't like. Due to cutting one of the straights down it mixes it up for the lower power cars. First session was usual warm up and found it really slippery. Just trying to find a line through the new corners was difficult but slowly got it. Second session was go time and after a warm up went for it but found the track slippery still and that moved all the braking marks earlier. Got first flyer in and thought to go again but stuffed braking up at turn 1 and then stayed in it but cooked the front left was up a little so stayed in it and made turn 2 but into turn 3 absolutely stuffed up and braked where I normally do, ended up locking up and went wide throught dipper. Tried to do a slow lap to have another go but again track was gone from turn 1 and no point so pulled in. Managed a 1:12.29 all others were 1:13s. Lowered tyre pressures a bit for third session but just no grip any where and did 2 average laps to try something different through middle part. Didn't bother with the second layout as was going to do a whole day on switchback. Rotated tyres and did a few checks, found brake rotors were showing a few more surface cracks but nothing too crazy. Went out after lunch to have another go, did warm up and tried a fast lap but was down .8 so called the day. Temps were in mid to high 30s. That finished off my year of racing. I had 3 goals I wanted to achieve and got them all 1. Compete in a whole series 2. Holy Grail all layouts 3. Improve my driving The 180sx is all parked up and I won't touch it for a while. Its performed amazingly well for such a basic car against much better engineered cars. Has out classed a a few Porsche gt3 and 4s and I still want one 😅 Needs a few things sorted like front brake rotors, wheel bearings and a suspected rear main seal and bent 5th/reverse selector fork. I am not going to sort it out as will be focusing on the S15 and that leads to the next thing............ The day after I jumped in the 4wd and headed south.......... 2000km. I found a few weeks prior a complete sr20vet setup with gearbox and tailshaft. Massive drive but for what it is, worth the effort. Got to stop by @No Crust Racing and catch up and check out his place. Got home and got it unloaded JHH sr20vet, hypertune manifolds, efr7670, id1300, npc clutch and r34 5 speed. Also picked up a r35 coil kit from @TimmyMA70 I've been slowly chipping away with little jobs on the s15 and planning to put the engine in this weekend. Need to get it in to see what I need to buy which so far is ecu (looking at Links but may see what else is available), diff centre, a few sensors, oil cooler setup, thermo fan and cooler pipes, clamps and silicones are the big ticket items but I know there's a lot of small things that make it all work and fabrication. I've also entered the Morgan Park Super Sprint B series so if the s15 isn't ready the 180sx will get used until it is. 2024 is looking like I'll drive a few less events but plan is Super sprint series, King of Qld Time Attack (2 day event), Noosa Hill Climb, Goldrush Hill Climb and finish up at Challenge Bathurst. May try and get up to Townsville to drive the new track if can find the time.

Welcome, That will be a great experience living and driving there.

Lol, sort of wish I didn't some days but its great for planning. Thats not too bad, How was this years event? Hopefully be there next year.

Efi solutions or golebys for best pricing online. Sparesbox and the like are useless and have cheap pricing but no stock and drop ship when available.

No noise, super reliable, parts available. Cost will be around same if not cheaper than as the OS/Albins/ppg

Get another shifter that looks like its been modded for an s chassis conversion

😮 Time for beefier rose joints then. Need some one to do load calculations and see how big you really need.

Yeah, its that way as is a small club venue thats had a few issues with being private hired. Why won't it pass? Plenty of workshops do "tailored" rwc inpections 😅

Sounds good Fits the theme of the car, it needs them

they are just a great chassis, the s15 is the go. I have found where the weak points are in s13 from a good look at mine a few weeks back. To go fast as you have found aero is definitely required. A basic splitter and wing is all thats really needed to go quick at the tracks here, I know just a small gurney flab on the boot will settle the rear of a car a bit. Good size tyre will go pretty far but getting anything bigger than a 255/265 under guards requires effort.

Its the same with newer cars too. Spend more time maintaining and fixing than driving them. Its expected pushing them so hard, if you didn't go as hard you wouldn't get the same enjoyment.

No as you are making wastegate pressure. If was leaking it would creep......... Above plumbing is the way to go. Don't run lines back to plenums, exactly like the above. Short runs of hose, super easy Check what MAC valve you have as some can be different with how they work. Greddy are backwards to normal in my experience. Connect reference line to wastegates directly to see what it makes, do a run and log it. Then plumb in the solenoid its internal gate so can only go one way. Run it and log it. Add 20% to whole duty cycle table do a run and log it if get a change add 5% more do a run and log it. Do this until achieve target pressure. Will need maybe 20-30% Duty cycle to see any change in pressure from actuator preset. If this doesn't work take it to someone who knows what they are doing, its a super simple setup that has been tried and tested for well over 20 years.

You can weld washers around where bolts go through to strengthen there. Making a gusset on the back to triangulate it from LCA mount up to the horizontal part. Maybe even gusset the lower part of the mount to but make sure clearance for the arm to move through its range of movement. Are the castor boxes cracking too? may be look at all the suspension mounts as may find more stuff. Pushing the limit and finding solutions will be interesting. I was talking with one of the key guys involved with the MCA hammerhead and he said the forces on these cars cause so many issues and limit the life span to only a few years without major structural improvements/re engineering.