Kinkstaah

Tcs switch is a button... Not a switch After looking at the entire system due to installing aftermarket traction control..... TCS is entirely its own thing... It should have happened with either ECU surely... As GTSBoy says... Check your ABS actually works. It uses the same speed sensors the Traction control does.... Which has a fault.

+1 for more story

I really really want to know the hard numbers on how many people are actually intolerant to fructose, gluten, this and that, breathing unfiltered air, other peoples opinions or the colour green. Seriously, its starting to feel like an epidemic of people allergic to all sorts of stupid shit. I mean go back five years, had anyone even heard of being allergic or intolerant to fruit? fruit????

I read the above and honestly thought the whole ultra fancy proposal was more schnookish than being a regular joe. But hey, that's just me. I can't stand people who are impressed by such things. Especially women. Man, that discussion about 15K rings had my actually chuckling at work. I didn't think people were actually interested in that kind of thing, like, not really

If I could have my time again, I would get the R34 GTT plugin from Haltech. It is literally as simple as unplugging the old ECU and plugging in the Haltech ECU. 0 wiring and all the benefits of a Haltech. -PS2000 user

I'd say that'd be more enraging and/or heartbreaking than "frustrating" depending on your definition of 'scathed'

Nothing in cars is more frustrating than almost getting something working.

But it was never really designed to 'pay itself off' it was designed to stop us running out of water to live with This costs money, just like insurance costs money

Until it becomes harder when it's not sold at a local pump

what that's the definition of mandatory

Victoria.

Re: Water temp, it really is 65. ECU and gauge which are independent of one another, both say the same thing. I suspect I got given the Nismo thermostat, which is 65C (despite asking for the 82C neo thermostat) ... twice... and replacing it twice. In any case I've asked Tuners and engine builders whether tuning it/running it at 65C is going to cause issues and I've been told its fine as long as the engine is tuned with that in mind, in other words, not running enrichment at that point, which it isn't. Concerned about engine life by running it too cold, was told this isn't a problem. ...dunno if right In any case this is why I was after oil temp. 100% certain it's not sitting at 70C after ample use of the loud pedal. Going back to sandwich plates, is there a downside to using the $30 china special sandwich plate over the $300 Greddy/HPI/Other Brand name item? Are they prone to leaking and such? I see it as adding an additional item which could break, or more accurately mysteriously do something unknown which is pretty standard fare for anything I touch, ever.

The idea was just to get the gauge going in a simple fashion. Then see if a cooler is needed, I have a feeling oil temp won't be the first thing to get into the "danger will robinson" category on the track. My water temp didn't see above 70 doing a drift day, so who knows what oil temp is, or not. I went to check, and found my standard oil/water/heat/exchanger is a N/A one, which has a welch plug instead of a bung for a sensor. fffffuuu So now I can choose T piece (inaccurate, cheap), sandwich plate (expensive, accurate), or replace the heat exchanger with the correct unit. (cheap, messy, accurate) Waaah.

a genuine tragedy

What about the original suggestion in the thread? By using the factory position my means of a small adaptor, seemed simple and easy as well. Easier, even. Or is it much the same as using a T piece? I opted to simply get that small adaptor and re-use a factory sensor location that's currently doing nothing. Just to make use of a gauge that was pre-installed when I picked up the car. (in my case I don't suspect oil temp to be the first 'point of failure' in terms of things getting too hot).

Looks like here -> http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438407-fitting-an-oil-temp-sensor-without-sandwich-plate/ Which I've read many times, but only now actually seem to understand it that its been done a couple ways. One was the way I mentioned before which supposedly is 2-3 seconds lag which aint so bad. Also in that thread is a link to an adaptor for the factory oil temp sensor plug, which seems like as good/better idea, for the same cost of a T piece anyway. At least it's in the location a Nissan Engineer decided was the best place to get oil temp from. Just incase googlers end up here ;-)

I am hijacking this because, well, I have a oil temp related gauge query. I have to replace the stock oil pressure sender which screws into the block. I have an oil temp gauge not connected to anything. I want to use a brass t piece between the block and the factory oil pressure sensor, and put a oil TEMPERATURE sender into this T piece, and wire the gauge to that. Is this a terrible plan, or is a simple 'fix' by means of a small adapter while I am down there going to literally ruin everything?

Glad to see it's not just confusing me . Note: Before the engine was rebuilt the same spec turbo did this at 22-25-29 style PSI (per gear). The guys doing the head stated the previous job was shit and theirs would flow way better. Picked up a fair whack of response, and well, more powers for way less boost. It may just be that they're right, and the thing is just too small/can't create resistance to flow in the head. I imagine if you put a GTX3076 on a LS1, it would not create 30psi no matter what you do with it. My main worry is what boost I should set the gate to, to avoid overspinning and frying the thing. I guess whatever boost level makes the power the turbo is rated at? (for lack of any other idea)

Mind you, the gears in an auto are very long. 2nd revs out to 135ish kmh. (1st is about 68). The gate will open.. if I set it to anything under 17psi in 1st, and anything UNDER 20 in 2nd. It will stay open at 22 in 3rd. Previously, on the same turbo, and same gearbox, I would make about 18 in first.. ~25 in 2nd, and ~29 in 3rd. 3rd being the 1:1 gear. New engine is clearly making more flow. Made the same power with 10psi less boost/restriction in the inlet manifold. But it has the side effect of the thing just not making boost. It is going on the dyno next week. I'll get some pulls done in 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc and see if the behaviour happens. Given I am going back to try and run more than 22psi it may become more apparent as to what is going on. I am assuming I'm maxxing out the turbo at this stage, because considering I have bought a brand new unit, and a brand new engine, and I have no boost leaks... it is either 'normal' or what else can it possibly be?

hehe On a serious note:

Well I was mainly talking to see if this is a common thing, if guys running 40PSI on a 7676 get boost in first gear. Guys with -5's and 450RWKW and stuff. But it's turned into Greg's weird setup. For specifics on my setup, as above, it is a 2.8 BC kit, on a Neo with a (rather well, apparently) flowed head. Currently it makes 380rwkw (407 when accounting for converter slip) at 21.5 PSI. The turbo is a GTX3076R, with a .82 rear housing. The boost CURVE is very similar in all gears. However, first gets about 17psi. Second just touches 20..21 (gate flutters oopen a tiny bit). 3rd and onward the gate is always open. The actual TIME to rev out first and 2nd gear is over.. very quickly. Enough that "there is not enough load" to build the boost seems possible. MAP pressure will jump between gears, if you shift say, at 10psi, shifting to the next gear puts you instantly at 13psi, etc. It behaves in the sense that you'd think it's a boost leak. However power is on par with maxing out the turbo. Hence me looking for more people with a lot of boost in a low gear, to see if it builds or not.

The issues may not be connected, but.. was really trying to find out.. If max boost increases as you shift gears to a more 'loady' gear. Specifically if you only make X boost in a setup where ordinarily, you'd be free-boosting.. where X increases (closer to gate opening) as you shift up into more loady gears.

Yes, I have this option with the Haltech too. The problem is, if I wanted 20psi in first, and second, I can't. I kind of want more boost. If I taper the boost down with a boost trim, the gate will open fine. But what about guys running 50psi? Do they get all of that 50 in first as well? I am sure that if someone set their EWG to hold 100PSI they may only get .. 50 psi. Or if they put the same turbo on a 8.2L V10, they may only make 10psi, but the turbo is spinning at the same rate. Just trying to find out if this 'is a thing' The turbo wasn't blown. It was making power, even though the compressor wheel looked like this: That's quite bad. I'd rather that not happen again, lol.

I can see how that could work, GTSBoy, with a HUGE turbo, you may not actually spin it enough to make pressure. However, mine isn't that scenario, in fact, it's the opposite. I have a small turbo, on an engine which is (maybe?) happy to flow it quite a bit. I'm actually concerned I'm maxxing the turbo out, so the engine is ingesting air so happily that the turbo can't flow enough to actually build up pressure with the wastegate completely shut, that the engine is happy to rev and redline without boost pressure 'backing up' so to speak. This effect is lesser with each gear as obviously it revs out slower. Cause it certainly is flowing air. I realise this scenario is ALSO 'possible', but don't know if anyone else has experienced it. Given my last turbo exploded in quick time I'd rather not repeat the scenario, if this is just dumb luck or something else, was curious to see if people see this kind of behaviour. For reference, I make about 18psi in 1st gear from about 3500 rpm to 7000 rpm. If I shift, in the middle of this, 2nd will have boost at about 20psi. 3rd will have 22+ (wastegate is set to 20), but it will pin the wastegate open, whereas 2nd flutters with it briefly, and 1st never opens it. In the past (at 30psi) nothing would open it, but you could see boost hit at 20ish, 25ish, and 29ish respectively. It was easy to see the boost pressure jump as soon as the shift happens. (dat auto life). The only other example I can think of is something like a V8 (like the chequered tuning car) which is running 2x Hypergear turbos at 3.5 PSI in a LS1 V8. Obviously 3psi in that car is not 3psi in a RB25. So if you have a wastegete set to 5psi, it'd NEVER open, but its maxxing the turbos out, and flowing air, and 'working correctly'. But it doesn't seem like its healthy long term to simply freeboost a turbo because the engine can ingest it. You'd think thatd be a sign of a wildly undersized turbo for the application and can't be a good setup.

There's also an option to "automatically remove once downloaded" but yes, for a millisecond of time, you'd have the file. However, there's definitely a global trend about people chased for this kind of thing being seeders, long time, multiple files, essentially acting as distributors for others to obtain files. Maybe it's the most low hanging fruit for legislators to go after, though. Then again it gets mired down. What if you just share out the DVD that's sitting in your DVD player that you legally purchased? "oops it was taken without my knowledge, those tricky pirates!111"