GTSBoy

Any speed sensors on the front? Gunna need something.

Yes. Same same. I'd have to dig through my comms with Gary to find the detail, but obviously enough they need at least 1 circlip groove to hold the perch up, and they have at least 2, and Garry just adds (or added, to keep the tense correct) some more.

No no. Hammered bearings from detonation are a thing, but you can damage bearings simply from overdoing the torque output in the midrange too. Torque management in tuning is a very real thing. Not pushing it as hard as it might go around peak torque is a survival technique.

I hear you, but that wasn't the point of the post. The point was just to push R33 owners' buttons.

Nobody cares about R33s. And if they do, they can always use an R32 ECU for Nistune.

No, they come with the grooves. He just added 1 - 2 more of them.

When you say "coilovers", are you referring explicitly to proper small spring diameter adjustable coilovers, or "any suspension unit that fits in the same spot"? Because the latter includes things like stock springs on aftermarket dampers, or aftermarket springs on aftermarket dampers. "Coilovers" is usually expressly reserved for small diameter spring adjustable suspension units. The amount of "adjustment" available is a wide variable, but minimally here we'd be talking about height adjustment. Anyone saying they have Bilstein based suspension, like me for example, cannot really say that they have "coilovers". My springs are stock format and could be retrofitted back onto stock dampers. Can't do that with coilover springs.

100 is hardly sufficiently better than 98 to make it worth considering, especially when it's only available at that one spot. I just don't know why anyone would consider a fixed, unknown quantity tune when you can just put a Nistune into a Nissan ECU and make it do what you want it to do.

Typically AWD rear wheel bearings have the extra ears and RWD ones don't.

Let's just consider this more fully then, shall we? Not available anywhere? Check. What is it made from? It's made from a threaded fitting and a couple of pieces of pipe. Could it be made in 2 hours by someone with a welder and some raw materials? Maybe a lathe if you want to make the threaded part from scratch? Yep. You bet your girlie arse it could. Would I make it from scratch if I needed it? Yep. Bet your girlie arse again. Would I even go to the lengths of getting it cad plated? Probably. At least zinc passivated. It's not hard to do it yourself, but you could always sneak it into a basket at a plater's for a couple of beers. Useless advice? No f**king way. You are just typical of the weenie approach to everything that the modern generations have adopted. If it can't be 3D printed or bought from an on-line vendor, it is IMPOSSIBLE! Your attitude is the attitude that sucks. Go file your nails and have a facial.

Remake from scratch.

Almost every street car will have rubber in the strut top. Spherical joints can be a bit too harsh to live with up there. There is an important point to consider though. Most (Skyline) people call these "strut tops", because they call their suspension units "struts". They are not in fact "struts", in the sense that "struts" refers to MacPherson struts and these are not them. Mac struts carry ALL the suspension loads into the top of the tower. Those being uppy downy bump loads and also lateral and longitudinal loads, because the strut is the upper suspension "arm". On a Skyline, these are just spring and damper units. Just the spring and damper. They are not a structural part of the suspension. All the lateral and longitudinal loads are carried by the upper and lower arms. The suspension unit just carries the uppy downy loads. A Mac strut car actually has to have some sort of bearing in the top anyway, to handle the twisty steering motion. But the rest of it is a massive construction designed to carry all those loads. Skyline "strut tops" are simple and small by comparison. So, where a spherical upper would be VERY harsh on a mac strut car.....it's not quite so bad on a Skyline. I still wouldn't do it though, for a streeter. I have a smattering of sphericals in my suspension and they transmit a million times more noise than poly bushes do.

That's a "gasket maker", which you would use in place of a gasket. Examples would include sump or cam cover flanges, in metal to metal contact, where no paper gasket was intended to be used. That will likely work on the ATTESA actuator, if the metal to metal contact surfaces are really nice and the insertion depth is not critical. If the insertion depth is dependent on the thickness of a gasket, then it is better to use the correct gasket. Note I am not all that familiar with the actuator.

RTV is not for sealing gaskets. Use a proper gasket compound.

Well, if it has been successfully done already, then knowing that much is half the battle won. If it has been done but some of the coolant passages (or worse even, some of the oil passages) are just left completely blocked off, then I would consider the whole exercise a walkaway - if you want to beat on the engine. For a project where you were just desperately trying to keep a historic vehicle alive, then maybe I would tolerate bodgy shit. But not for a perfmormance project. The trick will be to buy headgaskets for both engines, stack them up and see what falls out. If you have to move some openings a little, perhaps with a little welding to close up one side of some of them.....then maybe OK. If you have to try to drill tiny bleeders to allow for steam to escape (gasp!) or for at least minimum flow of coolant in an area (see bodgy shit referred to above), then maybe not so OK. What is teh history of people using this block with a twincam head on it? Done at all? You're the first?

And let's not bother finding out what is actually wrong.

Normal. There's always oil in the intake tract. Comes from blowby, ando/or turbo seals. Not desirable, but normal. THERE IS NO BOOST THERE!

Just buy billet crank?

Yes. Probs regulator. Take to an auto sparky and get it checked. Might be an easy fix.

Well, a big chamber at whatever pressure the turbo inlet duct is at, which can be anywhere from atmospheric to a moderate level of suction. Remember, you do not want low pressure between your air filter and your turbo because that is stretching out the air available for the turbo to ingest. Any lower pressure than atmospheric at the turbo inlet works against the pressure ratio that the turbo is able to create. PR2 when you start at 14.7 psi is >29 psi (absolute), which is a whole 14.7 psi of boost. PR2 when you start at only 13 psi is suddenly only 26 psi (absolute). Subtract the 14.7 psi of the outside air from that and you only have 11.3 psi of boost.

It's worse than that, in that it has something a little bit silly on the compliance plate, as if the importer had something to do with that model of car being produce by Nissan. Which, of course, they didn't. Most other imported Skylines just (correctly) say that they are Nissan Skylines on their compliance plates. So it is rare, just not in a desirable way!

Turn it down further. Make the ECU use more of the available IACV capacity to achieve it. Better to run in the middle of the range than at one end.

And that was supposed to be 50% too. Bloody typos.

I should post up the photos of a 12" flange where the knuckle dragging mechanical fitter put RTV in a zig-zag line running inboard, then outboard, of every other bolt around the flange. 100 kPa gas pressure inside had no difficulty finding its way to the 5% of bolt holes with no RTV between them and the gas pipe. And that's before you realise that you don't even need or want RTV on such a flange unless it is quite severely deformed in fabrication.

It is.....in dirt rally.