GTSBoy

I have no idea. There might be upper and/or lower limits to shim thickness which mean that if you need to go too far you have to get a different bucket also. Stay within the limits and keep the same bucket. That sort of thing. You'll soon work it out once measured up. Of course, once you can't know in advance until you have measured. You really need to speak to someone who has done this on a VQ to find out what the rules/limits might be.

VQs use solid lifters. The clearance is set with a shim**. You first need to pull the cam covers off and measure all the clearances at running temperature with feeler gauges. You then dismantle the cams off the heads and pull the shims out and measure with a micrometer. You then order new shims at the required size to obtain the correct valve clearance for any valve that had incorrect clearance. If the clearance was too large, then the new shim will need to be thicker than the old shim by the difference between the required and actual clearances. This is not something that you can just order the parts off the net and do in an afternoon. The car will be in pieces for at least several days. **It might be the case that the VQs don't even have a shim and they just use graded bucket (with different thickness tops on them). In which case, in the discussion above, just replace "shim" with "bucket".

Starting to sound like you need to worry that he pinged it to death while it was running on lawnmower fuel. Such damage is rapid and irreversible.

Valves don't tick. The lifters do.

Could be suspension....but I wouldn't put money on it. Likely to be tyres, from sitting still for months. Flat spot, gone hard, whatever. I am usually tempted to just blame the stupid R32 anti-squat geometry. I've never been able to stop my shitbox from axle tramping like a flea-bitten dog on meth.

Well, is it axle tramp? Is that what's happening?

It's clearly not Nissan, therefore added by a previous owner, therefore not going to be in any manuals. Why not follow the wires?

I'm still suspicious of this. There's not really any such thing as a real "non-genuine" AFM for these things. All the non-genuine ones are unreliably wrong, or just completely wrong.

Cam timing will not deliver a hundred ponies though. We're talking window dressing here.

Well, there's no way that that's true, because that's a stock turbo for a barely bigger engine and you can put substantially larger turbos than that on an RB20. The NeoOP6 is good for maybe 200rwkW on a 25, possibly more or less on a 20 (probably less). They really don't spool up a lot more lazily than the stock RB20 shitter turbo, so it's all win win....if you can find a good one, and if you are prepared to continue to live with a ceramic turbine that could fall off the shaft at the changing of the season. I have seen near stock (internals, etc) RB20s make >260rwkW on big turbos that come on like a light switch at 4500rpm or so. The happy medium is somewhere in the low 200s I think. If you want a new turbo, or to perhaps highflow your existing one, look at Hypergear.

Nothing. Family cars are appliances. They get no more love than an initial wash and a coat of wax from me, then any degradation thereafter is not my fault, as I'm not driving it / washing it / checking its oil / checking its tyres. Any money spent on PPF/ceramic presumes that the car underneath it is something worthy of being preserved, and frankly, nothing made in the last 20 years is even close to that, unless GT3RS, etc.

Sounds racist.

Yeah, that's what the efficiency lines are all about. The lower the efficiency, the more of the work from the turbine to the compressor is turning up as heat instead of pressure.

I'd have to search for it the same way you would.

I think if you look at the line drawing of it you posted, you will see that it is installed on a cam cover.....on some other engine. On that installation, it would be a cam sensor. On your application, it cannot be. The only engine position sensor that RBs need and use is the CAS (Crank Angle Sensor) mounted on the front of the exhaust cam, which has multiple sets of solts and multiple optical sensors to pick up actual engine position. Plus or minus the slop and harmonics in the timing belt, of course. Great sensor, shit place for it. But that's another story.

That's not a camshaft sensor. The cams are on top of the engine. That's about as far from there as you can get. That must be looking at the teeth on the flex plate ring gear. I did not know that NA Neos had that. If it is an engine sensor, then it is a crankshaft/engine position sensor. But even then, you can't easily have missing teeth on the ring gear (otherwise the starter motor would tear it apart) and so it cannot be an absolute engine position sensor. I'd be willing to believe that it belongs to the TCU as an input speed sensor, but I can't imagine why they would do that either, as you can (and they already do) just pass engine speed through from the ECU to TCU via the comms bus. Anyway, new to me. Willing to bet that if you pulled it out and started the engine it would run just fine.

Whoa. Now I need a photo of it on the actual engine. How does an RB20DE Neo have a sensor that no other RB has?

That is why. Running off the efficiency island means making hot air.

The end game gets to .... Weld a piece of 12.5mm square in there. Grab with 24" pipe wrench and try to twist it off? Drill it out, hacksaw the remainder, tap out with chisel.

Hrrm. I forgot I had that R33 wiring diagram. Am not familiar with it, so just had a dig around in it. Can't see an interlock solenoid to prevent pulling the key out. The only interlock solenoid I can see is the expected one that prevents you from moving the shifter out of P unless the TCU is happy with its inputs. I dunno.

Do you have the wiring diagrams? There is probably wiring associated with the auto shifter park position and the key that you need to bypass. I didn't know that there was an interlock in that direction, but it seems reasonable.

JIS TP is dimensionally compatible with BSPT.

There's no such thing. So what did you change? Yup. Pulse Width Modulated solenoid will....pulse. Neither of those should be responsible. That'd be the AAC/IACV that you cleaned and replaced. It has a coolant line to and from it. Open when cold, closed when coolant is hot enough. Not going to make it misfire anyway. if you bought that cheap from eBay, then you probably bought a fake. Clean the old one, check the solder joints on it (google all this, it's not hard) and put it back. Treat the new one with gross suspicion. It'll either be the coilpacks (and no, you cannot measure the primary resistance of the coilpack because you cannot access it from the pins because it has an inbuilt igniter) despite you buying "new" ones. Unless you spent ~$600 on these, you probably bought fakes. .... or, it'll be a blown headgasket, or a dirty injector, or a cracked piston or ring. Maybe cracked head. Things that get worse when it warms up anyway.

Same on others. But we're talking about stationary (<5km/h) conditions here.

Here's what happens if I just mash the boost up on the 7000rpm point. 30psi and wastegating a bit more gas. Now you're flowing close to the limit of the compressor wheel, even less efficiency, and nowhere near the top RH point of the island, which is where you would prefer to be. This turbo wants a lot more boost to run efficiently, and it can't do it on a large engine. Still only making ~800HP. I tend to think the "900HP" rating might be a small stretch, but of course I haven't tweaked any of the other inputs for realism. There's a lot to play with on matchbot, and you can't really do it unless you know what is realistic for the combo.