GTSBoy

And while that can be true, it is also possible that the clunk comes from the tailshaft centre bearing, from the diff CW&P lash, from CVs or the splines of the driveshafts into the hubs, etc. Also possible to be in the front drive stuff, but you wouldn't expect anything there to cause much noise on a normal takeoff.

Exert about half the force required to make the 1/4" TW go click when set to 5, and call it done? Or just do them up to 5 on the basis that 2-4 Nm is barely more than a sneeze? Is your TW even sufficiently calibrated to know the difference between 4 and 5 Nm?

Everyone runs E85 in original steel tanks. You can have extra corrosion issues because E85 can absorb a lot of water (compared to plain petrol) and have it sit on the bottom of the tank. In practice though, most of the stories where this has happened and caused problems involve really unusual circumstances. Just do it.

Definitely is a bad switch. Duncan linked to the recent thread where I gave advice on this. As to the dash lights, get the wiring diagram and check it out closely. You want to understand where each section of the dash lighting gets its 12V and its ground, and pursue those into the circuit board and wiring, to see if you can find the culprit. Just randomly cleaning stuff only works if the stuff you're cleaning is the dirty culprit. If the problem is a bit further back in the wiring, you solve nothing.

Keep in mind that swaptronics with the G sensor might lead to the death of a perfectly good G sensor, if the problem exists elsewhere, such as in the ABS CU. So definitely put the effort into measuring the voltages as Joshua describes, before plugging in anything new. A long time ago there was a problem with R32 HICAS CUs failing. Thee R33 ABS CUs are now well and truly old enough for things like electrolytic capacitors in them to start reach EOL. That can cause bad electrical gremlins that might fry things like G sensors. Cover your arse.

I'd agree with you if it wasn't against my internet policy to do such things. Also, my car is a bitsa now, and I've never anywhere near it, so my location is moot! I'll happily give such information when it's helpful though!

There is a 100% easily understood vacuum hose diagram in the bloody manual! Get it. Look at it. Understand it. Replicate it. Job done.

What do you mean by this? This is an opportunity for you to put the vacuum lines on this car right. Get the manual, like I said, and make it look like it should.

I'm trying to work out how anybody knows what car we're talking about here. The OP's listed R32 can't have the shitty A-LSD, and there's no mention of an R34 in any text here. Were there even any R34 RWDs with the shitty diff? I guess that means that it should only be an R33. Was gibts?

The system is working. It's not working properly, but it is working.

Bogan's gotta boge. I guess where you are it's Redneck's gotta yeeha.

The silicone line is probably supposed to be connected to the steel tube. The steel tube will pop out on the other side of the timing cover and is probably connected to the charcoal canister, as Meap said. But, given that the plugged line is silicone, therefore not stock, it would be impossible for anyone to be categorical about what it is. You will need to follow it to the other end, and then compare it with the vacuum hose diagram from the workshop manual.

If it were me, I'd just build a controller on an Arduino. Fit it with a little trim pot or two, put it in a sealed box, and use the sensor location in the rad tank. The trim pots would allow the on and off points to be adjusted, rather than relying on hard switching points. The logic in the controller could be as sophisticated or as simple as you like. You could even have extra RTDs or TCs looking at external air T, engine bay T, etc, to inform how hard to run the fan. I'd see it as an opportunity to experiment with programming some fuzzy logic. Might turn out to be complete overkill, but good fun. But, if you have the capacity to run it from the ECU, almost any other option is verging on silly. No extra sensors required, all sorts of additional logic available at the twitch of a mouse, etc.

Screw you both. Now I've got that song by Limahl going through my head. Yuck. Yuck. Ick.

GTRs have a CV joint at the diff snout end of the tailshaft. No U-joint there. Can't help you with measurements, sorry.

Well that depends on whether the encumbrance is still current or if it's just a zombie. You need to contact the holder of the encumbrance to find out if they actually do still hold it. These registers are not always going to be 100% accurate. They serve to prevent as many surprises as possible. Here you have a potential surprise. Investigate.

Yeah, well. f**k PranK then.

Indian Premier League?

Duncan beat me to it. What he said ^^. But making sure to interpret 12 turn as 1/2 turn.

I note the disappearance of a nonsense post from this thread!!

As to the question of the inner rear seat attachment point - it's a stud in from the tunnel. A flat plate with a hole in it can be interposed between the seat rail and the tunnel. That plate then needs to have your harness eye on it in some fashion.

Yeah, but you shouldn't.

I don't know where you would get a cover that you would prefer a trimmer to use over the cover that a trimmer would build from scratch from your choice of nice leather, or alcantara or whatever. Keep in mind that with the wheel you showed, you have to re-pad and cover the entire thing (except the hornpad/airbag part), not just the rim. The rim and the spokes are all the same thing. They all need to be under the same sewn expanse of fabric (or plasti-rubber, or whatever you do on top), with seamless padding from the edges of the spokes out onto the rim. There are a number of crowds in Oz that speciailise in rebuilding steering wheels. They can redo them to factory spec, or you could go leather. Just do a google for "steering wheel restoration australia".

A local motor trimmer can usually redo a steering wheel at a reasonable cost. I say "reasonable", but nothing involving manual labour is really reasonable compared to buying a new Momo or similar.

If you're in Australia it is not legal to mount your front numberplate offset to one side. And don't carry on about Evos - they were ADRd that way. An exemption, if you will. I'm not even going to talk about the pointlessness.