GTSBoy

Will actually make a tiny bit less power, because the RB ECUs are not clever enough to wind in extra timing to take advantage of the extra octane, and the further away from the detonation threshold you are, the lower the power the engine makes.

18x9 +30 will fit on an R32 GTSt. That is R33 GTR width and offset - goes on OK. 18x9 +22 is going to poke out and will absolutely need work done on the guards to fit them. I wouldn't do it.

An external leak is so much more likely to be an external leak (drain, etc) than internal seals.

How heavy is the clutch you're planning to put in? If not a monster, there's little point. The tougher Nismo pivot ball is a thing though.

That's hilarious.

Well, clearly, given the way that it flops around, either the channels are bad, or the physical connection of the glass to the lift mechanism is bad.

Does it not sound like a wire or switch problem? Have you not even broken out the wiring diagram and a multimeter to see what's happening?

You're not pushing it hard enough?

The sheetmetal part looks like 15 minutes work in my shed with the panbrake.

Any clutch supplier should be able to provide a release bearing. Obtaining a release bearing is the last thing I would consider a problem.

Let's be clear. It's a road car. You can't stay on the power for more than about 10s at a time anyway, and even if you flog it through the hills you're only on the power < half the time. You don't need to worry about cooling the box too much, and it is mechanically strong enough to handle that much torque. If you cane it silly, then yes, it will suffer. But if you drive it around normally, and launch it from the lights some of the time, you're not doing anything outrageous to it. If it breaks, it will be because it's 30 years old.

Stock box will handle that much power anyway.

it's a big turbo, so it's maybe just possible. But it seems unlikely without a bit more boost.

Of course there's no answer. How can there be an answer on the internet for the specific problem that your car has. Your car will have one of the problems you find on the 'net. It will then be up to you to work out which one it actually is.

Wiring diagram? And then you would need to compare with equivalent from the shitbox.

Looks like somebody's been playing some stupid top down farming/camping/town building strategy game. Le sigh. Shoulda spent more time in school.

What do you mean "Just checked here"? Do you mean you looked around on SAU for FSMs? Or do you men you asked here? Because, you'll probably need to put more effort in than that to obtain both FSMs. Theres' no way that anyone on SAU gives 2 shits about Qashqais, so won't have a manual. And, you are probably the 1st person ever to want to swap a wheel from a more modern Renault Nissan into a V series Skyline.

Have you done any research at all? There would only have to be about a trillion threads on this topic spread all across the internet. it will be one of the several things.

You'd be well advised to work from factory service manuals.

Airbag compatibility is another consideration. Not to mention whether the spline is even the same, shape of steering column shroud vs. shape of back side of steering wheel (and therefore how poxy it might or might not look from the side/top view), etc etc.

Not to mention stupid on a road car, and leading to no longitudinal grip (from running only on the inside edge of the tyre) and only getting lateral grip when literally driving at 10/10ths so as to roll up onto the full tyre face in corners.

This. When I read the OP, I wasn't actually sure how to phrase this without degenerating into a rage about how there's no such thing as Stage 2 porting, etc etc.

That's a mechanical problem that has caused an electrical problem. I see the damage on the end of the sensor, so presumably that's your sensor short. But it would appear to have been caused by the tone wheel moving axially out of position. It's supposed to be contained within the shield and aligned with the sensor. It's not.

Some thousands.

With a cooler and shift kit it will likely hold that power for quite a few years. But you have to realise that it is a nearly 30 year old car and so it could just go pop seemingly at random. If it does go pop.....you just send it to MV automatics and get it built.