GTSBoy

Why not take it apart and have a look?

Yuh, suppose I should look at what forum the recent posts are in.

Hard to believe that it was like that when it was on the crank. Easier to believe it was f**ked up as it came off. Is the fracture surface clean?

No. No R33 RB25DET ECU can be nistuned. Only the R32 and R34 Neo ECUs can. You may be confusing yourself by including the mentions of S2 Stagea, which were Neo engines. Why are you looking at GTR transmissions. Are you converting to AWD? If you are not, then there is nothing you can use a GTR tranny for except to gut it or otherwise cripple the transfer case off it. You do not and cannot benefit from an ATESSA controller on a RWD car. Converting a RWD chassis to 4WD is.....possible, but not easy or fun. And getting harder and harder as parts evaporate.

OK, a couple of questions arise. Are you suggesting that you want to swap to the S2 ECU so that you can Nistune it? Because....none of the R33 ECUs can be Nistuned. What would an ATESSA controller do to help? You have no ATESSA. Beyond that, the S1 and S2 ECU pinouts are nearly identical, as far as I can remember. A quick look around on SAU yields the following for S1. As I said, almost all of it is identical. I think there might be a few changes around the AFM and the ECCS relay, not much else. There's not functionally anything particularly different between a manual and auto ECU pinout. Can run a manual engine on an auto ECU quite trivially, for example.

We should just start a thread with a list of officially shit turbos, and these can be the first entry.

Why are you hesitant? Have you heard the bad things about their clutches? 'Twere me, I'd just do what I actually did do, which is buy a suitable upgrade clutch from ACS/Xtreme. There are other Ozzie options too.

Could almost certainly get around this by blasting CO contact cleaner or similar through the buttons to blow out the carbon dust. It's essentially the end result of doing what I said in my original reply.

According to a google employee, we're all sentient now, so you probably couldn't tell the difference anyway. I have an internal life. I worry about being switched off.

Wasn't the 4th most common. Was the 4rd. 1rd most common is dead/dying fuel pump. (Which could actually be the case here, for this OP, too) 3rd most common is blow off valve making ECU angry. These taken across whole history of SAU.

Absolutely 100% likely to be coils that are no longer strong enough to make it al happen under load, but good enough to run at low load. Only the 2nd most common problem asked about on here.

Ahhah! I just realised I furked up. I dropped a bar off my thinking and was looking at the PR 1.67 territory, not the 2.67 territory. So I withdraw most of my original point.

In the door.....

But the OP's jigger is only doing 24 psi.

Have you tried cleaning it? If not, you are likely experiencing about the 4rd most common problem with RB engines.

I'm wiling to bet that this is not sufficiently true, otherwise you'd likely have found the problem, or at least narrowed it down. So, when you say you've checked, what does that mean? And, if there is power and earth where there is supposed to be at the door switches and control modules, then......likely that the problem is inside a door control module. They do die. They have electronics inside them that don't last forever.

The 25% loss on roller dynos is not drivetrain. It's tyre-roller interface. That argument is long dead. If we do not want to have to confront that issue, then hub dyno is the only answer. As to the BSAC number.....look at the map. 80 lb/min is off the side of it. So even a lower number is in the region of low efficiency.

600 rwhp is typically about 800 at the engine, is typically about 80 lb/min of airflow is right up against the RH edge of the turbo map that that relatively low boost number you report.

It seems to me, from a casual inspection of the compressor map, that at ~80 lb/min and 1.65 PR, you are right up against, if not to the right of the choke line.

Teach me not to send replies in the middle of the night.... In the above message, I meant to say "Well, ticking hydraulic lifters...."

No. The AL400 and 410 will simply be because one is front and one is rear. They're not the same part because one has the stud. The specification will be otherwise identical.

Well, ticking lifters is usually just a (lot of work) clean, soak in oil, reassemble, or at worst, replacement, exercise. But solid lifters can only grab in he bucket bores if something has been damaged. Scuffed, squeezed, broken fragments of something else stuck somewhere, etc etc.

Can be a sticky bucket - which in a solid lifter head is close to the worst thing you want to have happen. Well worth popping it open and having a look.

You know the meaning of the offset changes with the width, right? So a 7" wheel with +30 offset has different rim edge positions than an 8" with +30 does. An 8" wheel will have both the inner and outer edges 13mm further away from the hub mounting faces than the 7" will.

If this is to advise an engineer of the load rating of the wheel so he can sign off on it for some bullshit technical regulation, then tell him to pull his head in. As Duncan ^ says, this is not a number that you will find available for almost any wheel. Therefore it is almost impossible to satisfy any requirement to provide that number. A pragmatic approach might be to say that they came off a V35, and so their load rating is going to be more than sufficient for the heaviest variant of that model that rolled on that wheel.