GTSBoy

No speedo = no odometer Also, in case you think that that's a good thing (which it is if you want to keep the mileage artificially low), the ECU needs the speed signal to do things properly. The ECU makes different decisions about things like idle speed etc when it knows that you're moving. The HICAS and various other systems also need to know vehicle speed or they can chuck the sads too.

What you are holding that pic is a mechanical cable speedo drive. Not a speed sensor/sender. The R32 gearboxes use cable drive to the speed o head. No, you cannot put an auto tranny's speed sensor in a manual. I don't know of a solution for a speed sensor that will work with the R33 dash that will go into that box. The similar boxen from S chassis cars (SR20, etc) use electronic sensors, but I think the drive gears are wrong. The R32 turbo box will not hold up to the torque of an RB25DET for many years. You will wear out the input shaft bearing. You should probably plan to replace the box with an R33/4 box and then your speed sensor issues will be simpler.

You'll likely have to @ him and even that might not work. He's not exactly a regular these days.

Fault codes?

Divided will ALWAYS improve response. Divided will POSSIBLY cause a small reduction in max flow, because there is less open area available in the turbo flange, especially on a smaller inlet like a T3.

https://gtr-registry.com/en-nissan-skyline-r34.php

Maybe Josh could and should look at that UniClutch thingo too. The street twin one would take the power he's talking about easily. Light action and no noise.

You won't likely find an R34 manual, but the R33 (and probably usefully enough R32, if you know how to infer) manual will tell you how to inspect the speed signal. You will need either consult or an oscilloscope. Now is the time to buy a cheapy scope from aliexpress if you haven't got one. No-one should be without one these days.

I get that impression already from various youtube vids whenever the I/O expanders are discussed. MCM, for example.

8HP conversion.

Grease the poly bushes as your first order of business. Moly grease. Spanner check everything else. Inspect LCA inner bushes.

It's usually associated with a muffler. Often in the middle of the muffler, sometimes at an inlet. Not removable by just slipping something out. usually needs butchery (read outright replacement of the muffler). There's absolutely nothing magic about any Jap exhaust brand. Totally generic. Totally replaceable with anything else that will do the job. I've replaced the centre muffler in mine a couple of times.

Heh. Just rev it to 7800 and look for signs of valve float in the dyno plot.

More likely ceramic, but yes, possibly metal. Another factor is that street legal (in Japan) aftermarket exhausts have to meet some noise rules that generally means that a 3" exhaust will likely have a 2 or 2.5" restriction somewhere inside it. If the exhaust has a JASMA tag on it, and hasn't had that restriction found and removed, then, the course of action is obvious.

Plus, if you want to shoot for over 300rwkW, the Z32 won't really cut it and retaining the PowerFC is getting to be a poor choice. You're going to be much happier with management that can actually see what's going on and have a hope of stopping it from going bad when something breaks (think oil pump). So, the $$ situation is probably different to what you think it is.

Hmm. OP question ever so slightly confusing. I shall interpret it as a manual conversion of an auto. Yes, you can use either of those gearboxes, or any of the other RB manuals. It would be a waste (of money and resource) put to put a turbo box behind an NA RB20 though. Which is what Duncan is saying, essentially. Modifying any RB20DE Skyline is a waste of time. Just use the shell to put a V8 in.

And double double triple double check the pins on the sensor, making sure you understand the orientation of the connector view on the diagram and hopefully the pinout on the sensor itself is documented on its paperwork, for comparison and triple double quadruple double checking.

It's not the connector I'm concerned about - it's the sensor itself. The connector is agnostic - doesn't care what you're doing with it. The pins on the sensor need to match what the ECU thinks it's pins connect to.

Probably the rubber lines on top of the tank cracked. You need to hook up an analogue VM to an O2 sensor to see it happen in real time. The data rates/update rates across Consult are not helpful.

Well, what you've done looks correct, but only if the sensor has the same pinout as the stock sensor. If it's not a stock or stock equivalent, then there's some chance that you've got two or more of those switched, which could be anything from non-damaging to let-some-smoke-out.

I don't think anybody has heard of a "NISMO gearbox".

Yeah, so I think that is the point. If you presume a 25% lower reading on a chassis dyno than what the engine is making, then the most you would see from a 720HP engine is ~550wHP. "Lose" a little more because AWD dyno and the number will be lower. Call a hub dyno "wheel HP" and you should see higher numbers. But the horses would be a different size. And as Murray says above - an imposed 90% DC limit drops 550 down to 500 straight away. 80% takes you down to ~450.

720cc injectors can only support about 720 engine HP. Maybe a little bit more. 600rwHP is, um, a plenty big chunk of that number. Probably running to the top of your fuel supply.

Scratchy scratchy with something sharp/pointy, and some contact cleaner/carby cleaner/degreaser/something.

The ECU has nothing to do with the fuel gauge. Any observations you have made as a result of changing the ECU are meaningless and just coincidence. There is a variable resistor attached to a float in the fuel tank. The float sits near the bottom on an empty tank and floats up to the top on a full tank, dragging the contact up and down the variable resistor with it. If there is gunk on the resistor it can interfere with conductivity or it can jam the movement of the float (ie so that it hangs up at 25% instead of continuing to fall below that towards the bottom). It can also be a wiring problem caused by hamfisted fuel pump upgrades, or a mechanical problem caused by hamfisted fuel pump upgrades (ie, the hanging of a new fuel pump so that it interferes with the movement of the float). And the list of possible causes probably has a few other things that I can't be bothered to try to invent right now, but will likely have been experienced by others. Take the sender out and inspect.