R31Nismoid

Kinda side point - steel wheel in the stock housings isn't going to get you 350-400rwkw... 300rwkw at best. You might as well just buy a set of Garrett -5 turbos and put those on.

lol. The one that comes to mine is a OS Racing twin plate. Possibly the worst clutch I have ever used and sounds right down your alley.

Well said. OP - Also does depend also on aims, you've kinda not said what those are... 300rwkw, 400rwkw, 500rwkw? Street/Drag/Circuit etc. But by the sounds of it, the above covers everything

Knew there would be a one sided whinge fest... Can always tell when it's gonna happen.

So worry about yourself. You got caught out. You can react one of two ways really. 1. The arguably, mature, approach of... Yep ok no worries, i got caught (or maybe I was too lazy to read the rules) and so be it, i'll pull my head in and learn from it. Move on, no issue/problem. Get added back in (just like the countless others) and everything returns to normal. 2. Or the opposite... Claim you weren't breaking the rules when you've said you were, have a sook and a whinge about being caught out and people are power tripping blah blah blah. The rules of the page have been there for a long time, you either follow them or you don't. No skin off our noses really.

Yet you just had a cry at me over facebook saying you weren't making a wtb or for sale post... Yet here you are saying it was. Seems some aren't all that bright.

That's it! I'd usually shift around 7500 too, just no puff left in the ole -9s. Still a power range of 3500rpm-7500rpm is more than enough really.

Probably find you won't make anymore Nick, guessing yours are falling over above 7000-7500rpm like everyone else in the boost/airflow department? What you will get though is midrange. You can jam more boost in the mid range... That said I was running 23-24psi @ about 4000rpm on 98 that then fell back to 17-18psi (as turbos ran outta flow) over 7000rpm.

You've now set down a more detailed path... See someone that might do '6,000kms' on a manifold might only being doing it with street driving so it's not going to have heat in it for extended periods etc. Where someone with a manifold that does 10 track days a year, 10mins sessions - asks a LOT more of a manifold in terms of testing how good a product is. Someone like Zoom isn't really going to struggle to test something like that with any level of detail. You then also take into account people that have 'cracked' manifolds might have had other factors involved like not hanging/suspending the exhaust correctly, so when running under high temps it's put weight on it and bent/cracked it and they then blame the manifold for that... That's certainly happened quite a bit as you can't really expect a manifold to be indestructible in that instance. I also know people who've pulled the turbo(s) off only to find the manifold cracked then, otherwise they didn't know and it could've been there for 6 months etc. Look at it this way - what are the most important things in a turbo set-up first and foremost? The turbo/manifold are as they govern the power, response and so on... So you focus the money there over anywhere else if push comes to shove as a bad choice there affects everything.

^ agreed 100%. You always end up spending money here/there. IMO as others have said, stick with the 2.5ltr for now... Make your 300-350rwkw on it. Put decent suspension, brakes and so on into it and learn how to drive it. While in the process of learning how to drive it with 300-350rwkw, build that 3ltr bottom end while you wait for it to pop (which will likely come eventually). All the engine ancillary parts will transfer with regard to injectors/ECU and so on if you think and plan ahead. The ONLY thing would be to buy say a GT3076 for now so that it is not too laggy, once you have a 3ltr then put a larger turbo on there. You're only talking ~$1000 extra expenditure but if you get 1-2 years outta the 2.5ltr and so on, then you've had 1-2 years of a really bloody decent set-up with great all round performance and good power as opposed to putting a big turbo on first and it being laggy and you end up hating it.

The PFC Pro was just a standing limiter with ignition cut rather than the standard one which is just a hard limiter in a way, simple in nature but quite effective. You can set it to "7000rpm" say, and hold the pedal flat to the floor. Until you gained road speed it would leave the limit there, perfect launch almost every time once you find the right RPM to launch so it doesn't bog. My 60fts would vary a max of .05 of a sec and that's more just surface than anything. So for GTR owners, it works very well for the money if you can find out. Just set the RPM, let the clutch out and cut cat GTR action ensues, I loved it and used it ALL the time. Wouldn't work that well for a RWD application if you're talking 300rwkw or more you really need something that will limit boost vs gear/RPM and so on which is something a PFC Pro cannot do.

please use the search

He does his best work at night

It bolts in. You just need the headlight and obviously the ballasts that come with the S3 light.

Closed/Edited. Trader as. If you wish to trade here, you are required to pay like everyone else.

A GTS-t box is more or less the same as a GT-R box.. Anyway with only 440hp you shouldn't be breaking any boxes TBH. That is more than within the realm of reliable. The clutch can be a typical factor to causing box breakages (ie, the wrong type etc).

32 airbox always has been an issue. 33 on much better design, dual feed etc. Good solid result. Be interested to see you go hit the 1/4! Too many '400rwkw -5' GTRs around at the moment that are failing to hit even 124mph let alone the 128-130 they should be, at least half a dozen now 10s gonna be EASY for you though me thinks, no fudge with your dessert!

It shows, far as I know, all sensor faults via the hand controller. For what you want just get Nistune and a blitz boost controller separate, job done for roughly $1,000 not not including tune or install. Won't find better than that

Don't forget though they are all auto, leave the line off a loaded engine/transbrake and you never see them sitting on limiters during burnouts. Definately big factor differences. It's certainly not the RPM that's the problem on a well balanced motor.

lol @ "someone"

Brake host, made to size, is only going to cost you around $100-$120 for two lengths that's fittings/braided line etc.

Caliper design is a little different but you're essentially talking near enough to the same thing as I would take a stab it's all coming out of the same factory as D2/KSport which is owned by two brothers.

C&V performance in NSW would be the people from memory. Adapter for a powerglide or at the least know who did it. They built the RH8 32R that had over 1000rwkw. Safe to say it will hold 1000hp :-)

Yeah a proper front diff is amazing in conjunction with a rear one and the transfer. Brilliant overall package. Having my "time again", I'd put on -9s turbos ECU/Tune/Exhaust and then do the drivetrain - that's how good the gains are IMO from a driving point of view. If you just daily drove your car, then maybe not as I did a lot of hillruns and stuff like that making use of it all

I would say it's worth it, just in much nicer to push fast even on a hills run etc. Totally predictable so don't worry about that. With or without the 4wd never 'kicks in when it wants', just sounds like a system with problems or someone that didn't know how to drive. Gotta remember it's not full time 4wd so you need to understand how/when how will do it's thing etc.