R31Nismoid

This sounds like a group buy - and as such - needs to follow the GB rules in the GB section. Please see this happens or this thread will be locked.

From memory, everything. Nothing was reusable and the pic i remember seeing had chunks of metal everywhere So just got a Nismo centre to replace it. Grip so far improved on street tyres was worth it and should've done it sooner. I'll find out if anyone can remember more specifically what broke (if it was one bit or everything).

OP - For 300rwkw and a street car, you're talking some pretty hefty expense for not a lot of value in terms of useable features. Nistune and a BRAND NEW GENUINE Z32 AFM will get you there, for $1000 or so. Comes well under half the cost of any other option you were thinking about. Power results will be the same, tune will be just as good, all the factory stuff will work just as fine. The things you wont get for example are boost control vs RPM, additional inputs (for oil temp cut out for example)... And other such things, a lot of which, for a daily/street car you neither need nor will ever use. That has nothing to do with the ECUs itself all things being equal and in working order. Just a case of a rubbish tune in the PFC vs the tune in the Haltech. Nothing more, nothing less.

Amazing work guys. Very well done getting this sorted out for us members

It had modified -9s back then

A Series 3 diff is no different to anything else, they will break if you put sticky rubber on and that's what it comes down too. How much traction you have or don't as to what you will or won't break. I broke mine with 370rwkw and drag radials after about 20 passes (no wheelspin on launch 8200rpm), that said it had done 300+ launches before that on street tyres. The joy of a front diff breaking is that it can, and in my case, take the sump with it which is a motor out job to fix.

you won't fit a 345mm under a 17 Also Ksport or D2 kits, tried and proven in the budget area to work, used them myself, i'd go one of those personally.

This. Works fine. Or just use a R33 GT-R pump, they don't have a rear feed and the pump itself it actually about half the size and weighs a little less as a result. Good for tight engine bays/conversions if you're close to engine mounts or similar

You can't put big/laggy and well in the same sentence if you are talking sub 400rwkw! The new owner just doesn't know any better is all that means if they are 'loved' Put -5s on any package with -10s and it'll be night and day levels of better in every area.

But then you can never run anything but E85 given you need to run so much boost to make -10s make the power to justify, all you'll end up doing it fighting detonation as peak torque on PULP. It's not like you are going to pick-up 500rpm+ response which is what you'd need to come close to -5s... One would sooner entertain the dirty idea of living with the horrid lag, surging and everything else and just have top end (but again, bin the -10s).

350rwkw+ Before then there are plenty of better ways to spend the money from diffs, tyres, brakes, suspension etc.

You don't build it for higher compression with shit turbos like that. Anyway, too many variables in a comp test to make a definitive call. It's simply used to give an indication of health of each pot compared to the next

Transfer first, can still do helli's then for a while. After diff = no more helli's Was rebuilt/modified. Not stock. The amount of drive to the front wheels, how fast it transfers, how much gets sent front from the get go etc. Controllers only do so much, make the mechanical side work better you're in front. A friend of mine had 33R that was near enough to the same setup as mine power/mods wise but just a stock transfer and let me take it for a skidpan/motorkhana session so I can back-to-back it pretty well. The only extra mods I had was the transfer case modified and front diff at this point. His was tail happy, slid everywhere on a skidpan and be a massive handful/taily unless the wheel was straight and the 4WD would hesitate etc. Mine would just grip and go out of all corners with no real rear sliding every time no matter where the wheel was pointing, noticeably faster in terms of the times run (talking 2-3 seconds on a 35 second run). Cost - was done by the prev owner not long before I picked it up so best to ring them, i never actually asked.

More to it than just a adding in a plate IIRC. The price racepace and other charge is a full rebuild, so that's not just a plate anyway, it's everything being done as new. Certainly worth the money on the performance gain for the dollar scale, in fact i'd go so far as to say i'd do it as a second mod after swapping turbos if I had my time again as it's total car transformation level of improvement.

You'd hope so, you only need 450-470rwhp in a full weight 33 to get in the low 11s and 120-124 mp. zone :-) With 600+... Shouldn't even need to warm tyres, should just do it even with a average launch and tie power will sort the rest out

As above, cams at this stage are nothing but a waste of money

Better off spending the money on a better sized turbo than putting in cams to try fix it, especially on r street car with stock capacity

<br /><br />You are building a track car, go with the proven items. Cheaping out anywhere will punish you more than it would in a street car where you can sometimes get away with it. $1200 Is nothing

Engineers / VASS = Mechanical only. Not detailed emissions. EPA = Detailed emissions. Plenum comes under emissions. Put simply, you won't get that legal. You have to undergo full ADR testing in Vic as that's how it is. That'll cost you more than the car is worth. Hot Rods are not a good example as they are pre EPA laws, plus they are cool, Police tend to leave them alone. Also if the VASS signed off on any cooler holes in a Airbag equipped car and they are chassis cut, you will still get Police sending you for another engineers as they should not have signed off on that one and Police know that, again, if chassis was cut only.

Closed.

They will fit only a VERY select set of 18" rims, most however, not going to happen. Just but a off the shelf K-Sport of D2 kit, 2k, doesn't get any easier

I have a figure of 17k in my head for a transmission swap (in & out) from a Nissan dealer? 47k sounds rather excessive.

Working ok here too? When posting sometimes it will be 'youtu.be' or similar. The forum will auto fix that, but it sometimes adds a "/" on the end. Just remove the "/" and it works out

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XAnMeOI7IY8

My Android one is working fine?