R31Nismoid

Pretty much answered your own question mate.

Yep, will be up for sale when i get time to take the motor out

This site and most other IPB sites will be having the same IE9 issues. It does take a while for such things to be ironed out, and given our upgrade was late last year 6 months could have patches out etc. Still though - rather iron out current bugs than make more

2.3 isn't overtly bad mate if you can keep replicating it, given the tyre size and you don't have much sidewall to play with even if you did let them down. I think if you can get consistent 2.3, and find out if you do have car gremlins - get them fixed there is no reason you can get a low 13 / high 12. I was getting 1.9 - 2.1 with 225/60R16, so i could let them down to 22psi (best for traction i found) and get it down from 2.3 You don't really have that luxury with 18s

Hrm... Yes perhaps not. But for 1-2 passes, I'm brutal like that Although i used to take mine to 7500rpm before it died a dismal death. Was tune related on what i knew was a near dead motor anyway, not RPM!

Ah i think we found the problem - up the limiter to 7500, make use of that big turbo Sounds like you are just shifting and falling off the power a bit.

For that size tyre etc, your 60ft actually isn't too bad at all. You dont have much sidewall to play with, and the tyres are skinny. Are you perhaps restricting to 7000rpm and falling off boost with a gear change or something? Or taking a while inbetween gear changes?

What i mean by "staged" is as you leave the line, you can control things. I count it as launch control, probably a little incorrectly, but it "aids" in the launch. 1st Gear - 14psi max 2nd Gear - 16psi max Or maybe... 4500rpm - Max 16psi 6500rpm - Max 20psi Just depending on what you use as an Aux input as. So you can then reference and configure based upon that.

:O Something is going going on man, 2.3 60ft (I'm assuming you are left). I am not convinced of you having 250rwkw on that particular day. Your time slip should look more like the one on the right! I was going to say maybe you backed off, but your half track time tells me you did not. I'm stumped...

Thanks for the viewing etc - I've not looked at this for a couple weeks haha. The exhaust is certainly very quiet as there was 6,000rpm seen during the driving bit. I guess that's what you get for a 90dB exhaust - it literally makes no noise at all and i can hear the fuel pumps over the exhaust most of the time. I provided the link to the guys that did the video so no doubt they've had a bit of a read and so on. Some really interesting and awesome feedback. Some things we certainly didn't think of at the time that would make for some interesting additions for further work. I think start to finish just in filming and setup there was around 5-6 hours of work. And then all the editing that goes on. Some real dedication people in videography must have

Ye i was 12.9 @ 109 with 220rwkw (225 street tyres) I think he is getting at that you are even more down on power than you might realise as the MPH certainly doesnt translate to 250rwkw, much less infact. More critically though what are your 60ft times?

How many times you been out? Took me i think 4 drag days to get used to getting off the line correctly. I tried all sorts of shit, various RPM, tyre pressures etc. I wouldn't worry too much if you've not done a lot of passes just yet.

A GT35 is a 350-380rwkw turbo, so @ 18psi if you are not over 300rwkw then most certainly there is something holding it back. There are users who have ceraintly run 3071 and 3076 on a stock manifold upto 280rwkw, i believe there might be users with more but I am unsure of exactly who as i cant think of the threads they were posted in at the moment. If you only want 280rwkw perhaps go back to the stock manifold and change turbo? You'd certainly notice a big difference @ 280rwkw with a 500hp turbo vs a 700hp one.

Ah minor issue with the link, try this: http://lilydale-yarra-valley-leader.whereilive.com.au/news/story/police-say-skyline-group-is-trouble-on-horizon/ Minor type in the newsletter link.

Ye i knew what you meant, just too hard to reply in depth from my phone But with a PFC - You won't be able to get the "staged" launch control where boost is varied against Speed/RPM. So sorta complicating it a little but it is possible. I guess its the one thing Phil didn't mention in the "Launch Control" summary I believe the ViPec/Link and no doubt other ECU's have the Auxilary inputs that you can map/configure with a boost controller and then be variable against Speed / RPM / Boost Or perhaps launch control like a man - with the right foot

Thank christ you posted that Phil, i was going to do similar later as it was hurting my brain reading it an hour ago, so i had to stop

You still putting GTT in the same sentence a "god of jap supercars"... And then calling an EVO a "performance" lancer? You asked for peoples opinion - and i knew it would only end one way - A GT-t is a Ford Falcon Taxi compared to an EVO, they are in no way comparable at all and so far apart it's not funny. A GTR & EVO each have thier strong and weak points. Lets not forget as well the GTR is essentially built on a platform from the early/mid 1990's where the EVO 7 onwards (new platform) is 2000 onwards or there abouts after the EVO's didnt need homologation anymore and all the tricky diff and computer business was installed.

VicSpec Issue 19... Is now ready for viewing everyone Some of you no doubt have already seen it after the SAU-Vic Email on the 20th CLICK ME TO DOWNLOAD!!! Well done Birds/Charles & others who have contributed. SAU-Vic Committee

I can have 250km to a tank or i can have 650km+. Seems like a pretty good compromise to me. Economy is as much about the right foot/driving style as it is about the tune, ECU and anything else really. Infact as a end user scenario all i see is economy thats almost double the stock ECUs capability, whilst making more power everywhere on the loud pedal. This is without any detonation, in any gear, at any RPM etc etc. Even with the "shit" ECU. I think we can all understand and appreciate you can't get the absolute best economy, but you can get some pretty damn good economy and still have the power/midrange to boot without the need for dual maps.

Do you know what the sampling was? I remember reading moons ago something along the lines of: R32 100th of a second R33/R34 1000th of a second So quite different a long with the pressure etc. Hence you cant just fuse pop a 33

Far far too big. Go back to stock cams. As for power - read the dyno thread. Plenty of results in there.

And that's the difference a lot of the time between a good tune and a great one. WOT/high load is only one part. People wonder why tunecosts vary from place to place. not saying that paying more will always get a full/excellent job... but when some people charge 250, and have the car for half a day... How good is it going to be?

To a certain extend yes, but IMO the tune is far more important and you can have the HP without the fuel consumption on an RB that’s for sure. Different if you have say a XR5 turbo or something that is on boost virtually all the time no matter what you do as boost is the killer. How so? A tune for the areas you are on cruise have anything to do with those on load and WOT etc. It is most certainly possible. Look @ my figures – I’m making 350rwkw and almost made it from Melb to Syd on a tank! And this was not even using a O2 sensors either. They are turned off so its 100% in the tune and nothing else. I mean if I am up it, I can see 250km to a tank – it comes down to use of the right foot.

Mmm true that, 130mph is ~200km/h which is ~7000rpm in 4th with 4.11 and a GTR Box. Can't tell the exact instruments are probably out a little, but its around that range either way I know cause i tested it out for N1GTR out of interest for the 1000M thing later in the year.

I agree about removing he timer etc, nothing but a headache. However if it is not fixed, it very much sounds like a CAS problem. They can play up over time with heat, and by stopping its cooling down and then repeating etc.