R31Nismoid

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years. If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

Hrmm I'm in need of a new camera...

My point was still the same though, time frames will however be reduced (which is a good thing). IMO it's just not worth getting a "nice" car for P's anymore. Too much hassle, they are all N/A and really not performance monsters etc. Not like when i had over 200rwkw of turbo on P's cause it was ok. So save for a couple years and then get a better car - ie whatever you can afford then. Also insurance is through the roof these days. Better to full comp a crappy car for a while and then once you are older enjoy the reduced premium. the difference can be easily $1000/yr just by going from 24yo to 25yo, which is bullshit, but thats how it is

Ah ye sorry i had 1300 gross in my head for some reason and was working on fortnights not weekly. >_< Fken early mornings, im useless before lunch

Well twin 2835 should be 450-500rwkw. There is a better choice than the ole T04Z anyway mate.

Cheese/meat, and maybe a taco... Cause lets face it, any salad produced is for the girls

Totally depends on dealer, car condition etc. Wouldnt expect much though. Maybe 4-5k at best? Go visit them and find out.

I dont get your expenses list (90pw but then you say 330 for a new place, inc bills?) Assuming you actually get 1300 net as well ~40-45k net (so over 60k/yr gross) IMO just buy a shitbox and save for 6 months and put the cash in the bank, then buy the car and borrow whatever you need then. Much smarter to do it that wat. If you want a credit rating, just get a credit card.

HINT: Bosses are usually more a pain in the arse I just want a form, and confirmed, so i can book accomm/leave etc. Not as simple for us interstate boys. Be interesting to see the Radical there, i wonder if it'll take off...

Only thing to do - contact PAR. Good luck, you'll need it!

The above is incorrect. the gauge is in mmHg. 7 is around the 14psi mark, this is not safe for the turbo, and will no doubt be hurting power by sending the ECU into 'R&R' mode. Please use the search for further info, this is quite a common topic. Also ensure you read the FI Guide sticky thread, it contains great links for those starting out. Thanks.

Chris Stacey is faxing off a form tomorrow/tonight He called me earlier this evening

Thought i told you last time? Starting on thread every couple of weeks does not mean you'll circumvent what i said last time.

And fair enough too

You go to VCAT or whatever it is. If you don't have a written quote though, you are in a very tight place. Verbal agreements - whilst agreements - are he said/she said. So there is no set chance you will even win, and the business operator will know this and most likely come out with paperwork (reciepts of parts, work job sheet etc to justift cost) and you'll have nothing.

Yeah Daily Tech is predominately a yank site. Cracked me up the amount of sooking from them

Easier than i thought - incidentally the last thread it was in, was about MM's "nitto" http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/334850-nitto-r34-gtr-wins-powercruise-dyno-comp/

Do you have the suspension adjustment to make use of the slicks? They aren't like normal semi comps or street tyres. If you have a stock sump im guessing you might not have such adjustments. There is a thread in the Motorsport section about slicks, have a read of it.

Just call up Porsche Melb, you can buy the monoblock over the counter for like $700ea or something. Issue is getting pads and the rotor to suit, you'll be paying out your arse. Have a look and see if there is a KSport or D2 kit in the size you are after. It'll be a darn sight cheaper and easier in that form.

haha ye, you had more MPH/power - i had the better 60ft

T04Z/33psi/450 @ treads on E85 is an interesting result. Guess that shows the difference when people build motors and pay attention to the small things that overall make up the bigger picture and allow you to make such figures with 6-8psi less and on PULP. Well its Sucrogen E85 - so not the E85 you or I would get from the pump, nor is it the same price (roughly $2.5/L IIRC) Do you remember the Sucrogen rep/owner or whatever that came on here and blew up @ everyone a while back? lol... Cause it's the same mob if memory serves me correct. That was a good thread. I should try find it for lols.

Well linear power can be deceptive, and on the street is generally faster. Remember 200rwkw on a R32 will feel faster than 200rwkw in a R33, weight, peaky setup etc. So totally agree there. It would potentially be faster too all things being equal. However @ the power range you are talking about. RB25/260-280rwkw, pit it against a RB20/260-280rwkw - in the same car. It'll be difference like night and day You'd be talking 500-1000rpm of difference depending on turbo choices, on/off throttle performance would be huge as will the power delivery. You get more area to the right of the dyno graph, and thats what really is more important on the street. Less peaky setup = less wheel turning and more forward action. Don't get me wrong - I've had an RB20 before, but it's tough to justify spending 1500+ on exhaust manifolds, plenums etc. You'll never see that value against performance as it's capacity & the head holding things back.

$500 a fortnight? fk me i spend more than that in a week on just rent and food lol. You are lucky guy!

You be one sour lemon today

SIF you don't like a tight fitting top!