R31Nismoid

Just what i was thinking. Seen many heads run 20-25psi without a problem, my own included in that. If it is lifters, head reco (standard) would probably just be enough. hate to say it, but i don't think boost killed your last motor, more likely the tune.

Can you get pics from the front (to the resonator), and down the rear muffler? Most jap exhausts 3.5" and above have a reducer in-piping, usually around 3" Keen on purchase pending confirmation of reducers or not.

I'm sure that can be organised easily enough. Wont be for a month or so though. I plan to run the same pads Will talk to ya offline from here anyway

Yeah man they aren't that expensive really. Awesome value. You just need to give them a fan on 5v (cable ties FTW) and then you are laughing. I didn't put a heatsink like other crazy mofo's and mine is fine. The 5i thread from god http://www.overclock.net/raid-controllers-software/359025-perc-5-i-raid-card-tips.html It's all there. They are SAS to SATA - internal

Awesome - will read it in detail at a later date mate. If you want, you can come and lend a hand I'm going to back to back it with at LEAST the stock R33 GTR brakes - Import Monster have a car with Alcons on it also, bit of 3-way hopefully

Take a slab of corona for example. You can get them wholesale for $20-$25, they retail @ $50-$60 Again, 80%+ profit. I could go on for hours about imported goods and bullshit gouging. Cars are another example. Audi R8 IIRC costs something like 80-100k GBP onroad (so thats not the BUY price). Yet it's 250k+ here? Audi make a lazy 30k without doing squat. Australian businesses should take note and realise that consumers are getting wise to this. You see the Myer/David Jones CEO's piss and moan about online businesses, sales etc. No stores to compete etc. Yet it's not even eating up more than 5% of their business - Yet they've done nothing to adapt, and ultimately this will grow. They need to wise up and get with the times. The majority of Aussie businesses are 5 years behind the rest of the world and are adapting too late - so screw em.

Ah i call ted bullpit! EG: SC2 ~$100 @ EB ~$70 @ Dick Smith So that's just wrong. EB are deliberately price gouging, and have been doing so for ages. As if Dick Smith were selling it @ a loss. They were still making money on it. So EB were making around 80% It's also a distributor problem - and it's not a Gaming industry issue. It's an issue across the board for ALL industry really. Have you seen prices drop for imported cars, AV goods, even food items? Course not. Everyone business retail/wholesale is gouging everyone as hard as possible. Look @ all the companies around making HUGE profits. Not like they weren't making money before hand, now it's just become excessive. When the dollar goes back to what it was for many years you watch big business sook/complain/blame - Yet the consumer will NEVER see/seen any relief or cost saving passed onto them. The Gov't 'watchdog' isn't watching anything, it's too busy sniffing anus of easy prey rather than big business. End of the day, you dont upset that which brings you the most money. So Gov't will do nothing about it at all. It's a fken disgrace.

You get a new sticker to replace the old one, not a new card

I am not of ethnic decent, so i wont be doing that

Ye you won't make 260-280 More like 240-260, anywhere in that range is normal. OP6 housing really only seems to let you make an extra 10-20rwkw. Whole lotta cost for nothing IMO. If you want 260+ - get a 3071/3076

Care to elaborate ole son? Will help to discern what is useful, and what is not.

After R33 GTR front rotors. Used is fine, long as there is at least 2-3mm above min thickness that is fine. New is also fine. PM me if you have some.

If you do that I'm coming with SIDE PIPE

Well put it this way. Stock rods would handle the power from that turbo (from what i can tell googling it). So aftermarket rods will hold fine mate. As long as the tune is good, you use good rod bolts and aren't going to sky high RPM - realistically they aren't going to fail on you. You've got more chance of a bearing spitting itself in 100,000km than you do of a rod going sideways.

$140 would sell em, they just need ram sticks which you can get off ebay for 10c lol Just never got around to grabbing em yet. Also need the SAS splitter cables, but they are cheap as fk too.

Just for track where you will be sitting in upper rpm for extended periods.

Why? What you have now will be fine mate. No point spending $1000 on rods when you already have em!

Yep, i refuse to but a 16:9. Haven't had one for 4yrs now and won't go back. I'd soooo hard to find a 16:10 I have the Sammy 2443BW as well, great screen. Had it since Nov last year

I run a modded Perc 5/i card mate, its all hardware driven, not sofrtware. Hence it's so fken fast compared to ICHRX I've actually got 3 still here that i picked up for a steal of a price a while back. I'll use the 2nd card for a backup server, the other two i'll probably just sell.

Either post prices inline with forum rules, or this will be locked. If you don't know what something is worth, then work it out.

Orange means prepare to stop, not continue on. If you are 1/2 way through the intersection though, and it's orange, you'll be fine IMO. You can easily write a letter stating it was green upon entry, only going to orange as you went through it. I cannot see how you'd not be let off in that instance. The camera shouldn't go off until it is red, it's not an orange light camera Sounds like poorly calibrated Gov't revenue raising equipment. I'd also include words/statements like "incorrectly calibrated as shown by pic" etc etc.

Why is it what you wanted to hear? You are talking about Apples and Watermellons. A full built motor compared to your stock one. NOT same by any means of the word, and a rather pointless post that adds nothing to the thread at all. Oh, and that youtube link is not what you want. Nothing happens before 5000-5500rpm. But thats what you get for using a truck turbo - a 2500-3000rpm power band with no power. You could get a GT3076 that will come on 1000rpm sooner and make more power than HX40 will. That is what a fast street car is all about. Turbo choice is the most important part of any setup IMO. A poor turbo choice will make or break a setup. You have a nice expensive part list, however you could build a faster setup for much less if you wanted to

Due to some issues from old forum - making this thread, as not all users can post in the old thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/366279-error-messages-in-wa-section/ Link to OLD Spotted thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/28407-spotted-do-not-post-licence-plate-details/ Hopefully issues are fixed. Cheers.

I'm getting the same issue, could be some how stuck on something since the forum update. Could be a wayward sig or anything else. Will try solution - make a new thread, please start using it and let me know.

Needs to be 3.5" from the merge of the front pipes, after the cat isn't enough. Gotta be 3.5 the entire way. How big are the front pipes?