R31Nismoid

problem with being lazy is - it goes down on your file. if you get pinned again, and again with the same mods... you better stock up on lube as they can cancel your rego and make the car unregisterable as just one possible outcome. always pays to go in standard without one iota of ammunition for them

The video is huge Turn off "HD" if you want it to load faster

Yeah I know, first run through i didnt notice it as much but the more i watch it the more i notice it. We'd already done two takes of the drive so it wasn't going to get done again. Will - 5d MkII i believe. Thanks for the comments so far. More feedback the better. More so surrounding camera technique, what does/doesn't look good and what people do/dont prefer etc.

Video/short film of my car is done Check it out!

All - As I'm sure some of you have seen in a past thread or two a video was being done by a mate of mine who is trying to do some different things with regards to car film/video etc. Please take the time to check it out and provide us with any feedback you might have

Same people starting the Police scaremongering... Get over it already. There is no point in "doing the right thing". The Vic Police don't care. Take the car show @ Chaddy Autobharn where they just walked through and defected everyone after they were informed. Good show of faith to the community that was. This isn't the first time it's occured, and won't be the last. Over 8 years, never have i thought to inform the Police of any event I've organised and at times we've had 60cars+. Idiots will be idiots regardless and will ONLY behave if there is a Police car visible. It comes down to this: If people misbehave, Police pre-warned or not - you'll all get flogged. If people behave, Police pre-warned or not - you'll most likely be totally fine.

Ye it looks fine to me too dude. I never said it was bad. Just a little leaner @ 4500-4800 than you'd expect. But by no means is it unsafe how it currently is and would be fine to use. Its perhaps just a sigh something might be needing attention. That is all.

When you pay to advertise - you may advertise.

Gizzmo also make a phelonic i think its around 150-200?

1. They are consistent - this is good, not rubbish 2. It could have been done slightly wrong - meaning there is no actual issue Given consistent results across all 6 it's either one of two things. The motor is a little bit tired or the test was perhaps not dont quite correctly. Have it retested perhaps by another workshop just to see what happens. With legit km's you'd probably expect closer to 130-140 but personally i wouldnt get too excited just yet until it gets retested. If it comes back and does show that it is similarly low then ye the motor is a bit tired and perhaps not a good idea to ask too much of it. 250rwkw on a safe tune would be about sensible limit IMO.

Yeah could be anything in the fuel system Just get the pressure checked, filter swapped and then have a look. Might be nothing, but 12:1 is just a tad leaner than the stock ECU normally behaves so it might not even be a problem as every car and ECU does respond a bit different

Ye mate. A few Vic guys have killed stock turbos on 10psi on the circuit (RB25s). Some are OK. So it's certainly something to be wary of. 12psi should give pretty good life unless you get one that simply is due to die.

It's quite lean for a stock ECU. Rare to see one @ 12:1 around peak torque. I'd almost be inclined to say your fuel pump is perhaps on the way out. Otherwise though it's not unsafe, and totally fine/to be expected in terms of result.

Senheisers HD550 for me. I've modified them to HD595 specs. It's a 10min job yet the price difference between 555 & 595 is like $60-$70 You need a amp'd sound card to drive them properly but by fuck they sound awesome. I don't believe in the "5.1" headphones, load of shit i reckon. The 595/555 certainly sound directional and with the Auzentech soundcard i have driving it all, very impressed. Great for watching movies & music which i listen to of a lot hence i grabbed these ones.

Yeah not a chance you will see ANYTHING before 5,000rpm. My guess would be 5500-6000rpm before you start seeing useable boost redline of 8000rpm... good luck with that. The most un-resonsive 250rwkw going around. You'd be faster with a RB25 turbo.

100% agree Ant. Before I even opened this thread I knew there was a fair it would not have an alarm. Why? Because it’s not worth the risk to steal a R32 GTS-t with a tow-truck or similar. Well that’s totally dependant. An alarm is only as good as the bloke who installed it first and foremost. Most guys simply just install them the same way, and do it 10 times a day. Easy to get to the control module, and isolate the bypass and so on. People need to realise alarms are not a fool-proof method. What they realistically are is a delaying/interference device. Delay enough time, cause enough hassle/noise – The car might get damaged but it won’t be stolen. Hence alarms these days tend not to reduce Insurance Premiums much at all because Insurance mobs see them in the same light due to the level of organise car boosting rackets. I give you the below examples that will paint a better idea of what I mean. R32 GTS-t. Opportunistic crime. Right place for the person, wrong place for the car. If you cannot get it started within a few mins with packing tape/screw driver/wire cutters - you leave it. The longer time goes, the more risk there is. R34 GTR Premeditated crime. Performed by an organised racket. They would have it all well thought out in advance. Would even be likely to have tested the alarm, how loud it was and so on (if it even had one). Time passes – indeed risk here rises. However risk has been mitigated substantially as they have no plates, unmarked truck, in broad daylight and so on. They would likely know how long the owners shift goes for, have spotters or tailing you to ensure you do not return during the process. Alarm systems have thier place, and serve their purpose. GPS is NO better. You can buy a jammer for $150 on ebay. Organised rackets - will have them. There goes your $1000+ GPS system

CHRA: 14411 It's the same. So of course it is possible... However you are going to put steel wheels onto a 10yr+ old cartridge. In all honesty that's an absolute waste of time. Going to all the effort to change turbos and then having two in varying condition on the motor... And ole saying the poor man pays twice rings very true here. If just one fails you are going to spend more than you would have initially.

So it's not going on a R33? I got that impression from your first post - although i did read it a few times and wasn't 100% sure

Size of the engine is somewhat important - what more important is the use of the car, turbo selection, head modifications and so on.

Smells like a trader to me. 1. "My container" 2. Mass amount of parts gearboxes, diffs, wheels even a half cut low and behold etc 3. Trying to sell goods you've not even verified the condition of personally. A private seller it's understandably might have a few parts - this is just taking the piss. Locked.

Yep. My own car will be guinea pig. Although that said the owner of Racepace has D2's on his GTR that have run fine at ALL the track-days attended (he's even run PB's since installing brakes) over the last year and this is what's convinced me i might as well as im looking to upgrade. Although I'm getting them via a different supplier and they are KSport - although no real difference. The advantage will be going up in rotor size as I'll be getting the 356mm kit. Not even going to waste time with the 330 as IMO just stick with stock brembo's for that as ksports do not offer much of a gain. It's the larger overall that is viable from what ive investigated. Plan is to be going from Brembo/OEM 330mm DBA4000/DS3000 to KSport 356mm/DS3000 I'll update more when its all done and dusted.

Because Victoria is bullshit. EPA - prime example. They have a Victorian ruleset which applies in addition to ADR

The pad they come with outta the box? I've heard they are no where near as harsh, and hence don't stop as well as more agressive pads so that would make sense as to why you've had some decent life. Also a GTS-t so there is less weight etc. Not a bad life survival - I'd certainly expect a lot less based on past experiences with many rotor/pad combos Rear seems not to matter. Infact people leave the stock rears in most cases I've seen JJap have them in stock - But give me a month, I'm getting pricing for the GB. If it isn't decent/worthwhile then i won't bother. I also want to get a kit and trial it mself to ensure it fits 100% first from the supplier chosen. Nothing worse than getting them and it's all fked up.

I'll say this first - before i waffle so you don't have to read the rest if you don't want too. But it comes down to you mate, and what you want. I'd suggest getting into a car with -5s and 20psi (370-380rwkw), and 20psi with -9s (320-330rwkw) and then make your own decision. Yes some setups make more, more boost etc. Im just talking "general/broadly above". 20-22psi is about the most you can hold to 7500-8000rpm from -9s and it seems around 330rwkw and that's the absolute limits. If i recall correct one person i think made 360rwkw on 26psi, but to the best of my knowledge that hasn't been repeated so it's hard to say if it was accurate. Plus given the fact it was a lot more boost for not much more power - the turbos are pretty clearly on thier limits. I have 2x built 26s at the moment: HR31: 2x GT-SS's in 31. GTR: 2x Custom turbos (similar to -9 in size for the sake of convo) sold those and now have 2x -5s Having had above setups I would never hesistate in saying get -9s or -7s. For me personally the -5s are simly to laggy for the street. I do enjoy the "kick" when -5s come on boost and inbetween gear changes and i must admit i do giggle sometimes as it will occasionally turn the tyres. But the fact is whilst it "feels" fast... It was quite noticeably less responsive inbetween gears/on-off throttle and so on as 90% of my driving is between 0-100km/h. GTRs & Stags are heavy, you need as much as you can - as soon as you can IMO for a car that is street driven. It's the one thing I am struggling to adjust too as my HR31 is around 150-200kg's lighter and is noticeably more nimble when i swap between each car. Add to the fact it's RWD also, it doesn't understeer anywhere near as bad.