R31Nismoid

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years. If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

exactly - no turbo on there, no diff. hook the CAS up and see the oil flow

Told ya man - They are just out to rip via undercut, and then "find issues" later on. Unfortunately that's how it goes with a lot of places like that, and it screws over the people that actually do good work and charge accordingly. Obviously not all are like this, but I've seen it more times that i am comfortable with.

Some yes - but the difference could be quite significant, meaning what you are reading on the pipe exterior essentially is useless information until you know whats going on inside. Remember @ peak, 280rwkw there is a fair bit of air flowing (45-50lb/min IIRC). It's mostly going to be driven temp wise by how much work the cooler is doing, which is inturn also affected by how much pressure drop - or rather restricton - there is from turbo outlet to intake.

Couldn't go anyway in the end, been fisted with work and i'll be in the orifice 12hrs on say. 100% missing out

Depending on where the piping is it could be sucking up radiant heat. Doesn't mean the air inside the pipe is the same temp though... That again, needs to be used with a in-pipe sensor to really get a good idea. You'll get an indication yes, but given you weld a bung in anyway to test pressure - not hard to have it dual purpose and get it 100% accurate.

^ exactly. Plus the splitting of airflow could potentially cause issues with the AFMs for a start. Anyway, pod's hurt performance - not increase it. Putting the stock airbox back in with a $100 K&N filter that is washable will last 5-10 years... Can't see how you are going to beat that for the ... money concious GTR owner...

What turbo setup? If twins then forget about it from the start. The ECU reads DUAL input from both AFM's. One turbo might be sucking less air, this needs to be measured individually. Unless you are going single turbo - and even then you usually need dual simply because you need the resolution. One Z32 with a big single (EG a T04Z) isn't enough. You can "split" the signal and use one AFM, however this is far from an ideal solution and not recommended.

I'm not using braid so cannot comment there. Braid still weaps (as in fuel smell) though IIRC - there is some uber expensive line that doesn't, or you need to get hard lines made.

merchandise _at_ sauvic.com.au There are some GTR hoodies there. Otherwise I'm not aware of any that other state clubs sell anything with a GTR logo on it

lol @ 100 night out in a club... mine are never below 200. Club booze is a joke these days. We usually warm up from bout 6pm and walk in 1/2 cut and um regularly down 250-300 which includes food, entry and maybe a taxi. thank fk i rarely go out now, saving a fortune! Oh and birdy, 12 stubbies is around 18std drinks. So standard drinks in a night out is easily possible. The average rate is 1 stubbie pre half hour, and that's after warm up, i reckon id be around 30std drinks in 8/9hrs no worries. I don't go out for hrs lol. 10pm-5am is common.

*waits for a certain person to see this thread* It'll blow out from 4 pages to 10 overnight... God save us

I've never run an inline filter, 10,000km/s without a problem. walbro pump as a lift to the surge/bosch. My tank cover just has a bit more cut our of it really. Uses the factory return line with just added hose to get it to the surge instead of the stock cradle

Also more thoughts. Tested pressure turbo outlet & @ plenum to find out if there is a pressure drop? And/or temp diffences? (you might have a sensor. not sure)

Seen a certain brand of return flow max @ 270rwkw recently on a car that was done. That said - you shouldn't be asking the question, you should be testing it. Measure boost pressure turbo outlet, measure pressure near the plenum. No point trying to theorise something like this as there are many factors to take into account. Testing will tell you without a doubt if there is a problem or not.

Are you on E85 now? More boost? Did you fix the boost dropping issue from your previous runs? (dyno thread) 310rwkw @ 15psi from a 3076 is a bit unrealistic so it's looking like you've changed fuel to me (just goin off the dyno sheet)

So best to PM me - PM's email me @ work direct so I'm checking them and replying if important. If not (like 95% of em), i leave for when i have time

you are lucky i just looked here - I'm barely gonna be doing wasteland tours for the next few weeks as im about to star 12hr fken shifts again /end life. Still got it tho man. It's just sitting out @ Import Monster thanks to ole mate Aaron - I've got no room to store half a car in an apartment $270 if you want it - special price for you if you come on Sat to collect it. I'm meeting a few people out there who are gonna be taking some other bits off my hands so it'll work in quite well and i'll be there no doubt for 2-3hrs.

You guys over there have stolen the good weather so no surprise something like this is coming up Forget thermostats mate. Stock is fine. What you need to do first is get the radiator out, give it a good flush and a refill with distilled water and so on. I believe you can get them flow tested too so this would be a good idea. Also the FMIC could not really be flowing much air and blocking which will also cause issues. If giving it a solid flush and so on does not work, then you'll need to invest in a decent radiator. By saying the one you have now looks as if it has stock header tanks, then i'd be dubious of it being aftermarket. A decent 40-45mm ally radiator from somewhere like Race Radiators (a melb mob, just as an example)... Will almost certainly fix the issues. HOWEVER don't go for the fix immediately, best to know what is the issue first.

Demand hasn't gone down - there are just that many shit examples & market flodding it's dragging the overall down. A very clean, low KM car will still fetch a good price regardless of whether you are willing to pay for it. As you are only willing to spend 15k, you'll only get 15k worth of car. You cannot expect a super clean car, wild mild and decent mods, low km's etc for 15k. It's not going to happen IMO regardless of what the "average" market price is today. I know two people recently who've sold built R32 GTR's for around 35k, where similarly modded R33's are fetching the same money.

Yer i know, my pays gone backwards I'd not have an issue paying $60 @ Heathcote if it was properly prepped. Tis a long way to go for a unprepped track that's running the same surface as it was laid 30 odd years ago. Not HC are charging $60 - Calder is suddenly reasonably priced and you get a prepped track in good condition... Not the best, but the best in the state lol.

Far as I am aware - as it's her insurance, you can take it wherever you want mate. Go to their place and simply do this. 1. "drop a hint" that somewhere else - pick somewhere 40km's away - said it was 3k quote. 2. Watch the AAMI repairer quote close to 2700 or so. As it's insurance most of them will b/s quote. It's fked cause what the AAMI repairer will do is under cut regardless, and then when they start on the job it'll be 'oh we found a few hidden surprises". Honestly you should get it fixed now as if there are any nasty surprises, at least it is covered at the time if it's a result. Often impacts even with an experienced place - you can find extra once you pull it apart and get into it.

And that's the only reason you are egging him on - not because it's a good idea

Yep - come with everything you need as it sells in the Box. I've literally opened it to check they are all in OK condition as per first post. Nothing is missing