R31Nismoid

If you run around with an exhaust that is closed like that - it's more restrictive than the factory exhaust in essence. If you are running then a modified setup, more power and so on... You are creating ridiculous backpressure and that can actually damage the motor and is not healthy at all. I mean it's "that" restrictive you struggle to even put the foot down and generate boost but if you try - it's not a good thing. I'd prefer not having to remember to flick a button before putting the pedal down. And plus - by the time you've seen the Police officer to close it, it's already too late in most instances as they'll hear you coming long before you'll see them.

Under "MY Settings" See what it has in there. My is GMT +10, there is no DST box anymore (as its now past DST). My time is spot on atm.

Caufield. It's a 2min walk from Caufield Station on Priny HWY. Been there a few times over the years

no real tester as such - just gotta measure boost pre and post. So you can do pre/post cooler, or some just do it turbo/plenum. T/P is probably better as it's an overall reading. Bends in cooler piping and so on could be causing issues so the absolute 'end to end' test would be best.

mmm my time is now perfect. If you enable DST correction - you'll have issues.

You do not need two accounts CRMIN-4 I've warned you enough times, via PM as well. This account is banned, your other one is suspended for a week. Have a think, and read the forum rules like you've been told a number of times.

You'll find some places outsource - Just go straight to Petroject. It'll be around $150 IIRC.

Like i said - use the search. First you start rubbish topics over 3-4 days, grovel to me via PM to lick my arse after closing them all.... And then you do this? Fk off.

Problem is the Varex is SO restrictive when closed, it's worse than the stock exhaust. So you end up driving around with it open because it makes the car "that bad" to drive.

cam timing will be out. It's not a cams issue at all. You should be able to make 350rwkw on stock cams with absolute ease, let alone bigger ones so its not that.

Dude - search function. Put "RB24" into it. Watch the joyus results roll in. There are entire threads listing in detail exactly what parts you need, what needs to be done and so on. For the price, RB25. RB24 is simply not worth the money as you'll soon see by searching and reading past threads about it. Hence there are very little. Thanks.

They are still illegal, so effectively pointless and just costing him money for nothing.

People are stupid?

3.5"-4" yes you will pay 2.5-3k (400rwkw marker) But for your average 3" exhaust, with off shelf style mufflers and so on, should be around 1k and under the legal limits.

Dyno variance is simple +/- 15rwkw at any given time between two places. Splitting hairs over 9kw is silly I've found Sam's results to be basically on par with other places for the most part. There is always going to be some variance.

One more ridiculous and pointless thread - I'll take away your posting rights. Your rubbish borders on spam.

Yet there were what, 20-30 people just standing around watching 99% of the day! Go figure! But this had to happen i guess, people simply don't give a shit or put in any effort. Everyone just wants to take take take and then complain when stuff gets taken away. I can't remember how many times i cooked up there, have done scrutineers, setup on friday. mini wang etc over the past 5 years. It's about time some people pulled their fingers outta their ass and helped out for once.

R34's are not kinda new. They are over 10yrs old. So of course the pump is struggling, you are asking more fuel of it given you've wound the boost up. GT-t/GTS-t pumps are not well renowned for being decent when you ask anything more than stock, after 10 years. Either way, read the FI Guide: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/66556-forced-induction-quick-ref-guide/ It has a link to wiring in pumps. Or simply look in the DIY section. There are some in there too.

Intermittent AFM signal problems do not cause the car to go into limp home mode.

Thread closed. Believe it or not, but since SAU started more than 7 years ago, this topic has been discussed before. Please use the search function in future. It may be found here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=search&search_in=forums While we understand that it can be frustrating to have your thread closed - Please consider that other members may feel it to be disrespectful and selfish of you to post a simple question, without using the search feature to review the wealth of information provided by said members over the years. If you still feel that this action is unjust, then please PM me and we can discuss it further.

Over a 30-40 second run though there really isn't "that" much of an advantage for any car really. Just comes down to going the right way, not hitting cones for the most part. One cone can send you from top 5 to outside the top 10, same for a WD/DNF

The VLt MX7 is similar to a RB25DET box. The normal VL RB30E gearbox is similar to the RB20DET box, only issue is i believe in both instances they have less syncro's on 1st/2nd. Otherwise it should be a fit if you use the RB30E item. There is no such thing as a RB30DET, so not entirely sure which you mean.

Officially the dumbest idea I will see this year. This even beats the thread about putting a 2JZ into a Mark 4 Supra...

Not a chance that i "wouldnt' have gotten lost. I dont have the brain functionality to remember some of those maps LOL I was destined for WD's and DNF's

Most of the photo's are supplied, not allowed to take any happy snaps when I'm out the back of the pits etc. Fair enough too. All the ones around the simulator though were just off my $400 point'n'shoot and came out really well surprisingly.