Duncan

If a 33 gtr box fits a 32 gtr box fits too. They do have a different clutch and slave cylinder (push not pull) but otherwise they are the same. Also 32 gtr boxes are nice and cheap, particularly considering how strong they are

cant help you there, don't know them. One probably handles ABS/traction control but not certain for 34 the wiper amp controls the various speeds and gives the proper park signal so they always stop at the bottom of the windscreen

good to hear. S2 stagea should have the same codes just use that, you'll tell if it works straight away

Sounds like you're happy where it ended up, good to hear How does Jez's workshop rate compare to the first shop that weren't able to put it together properly?

long gone sorry

First is the wiper amplifier

lol we both have a hope then Not to mention Neil

OK spark plug, cam and timing belt covers sold. Still for sale: 6 Volk Racing Le37 in 18x9.5 +12 $2,500 Wideband 02 sensor controller $180 Battery Box $20 2x 32 Heater core and box $80 JJR RB26 sump baffles $250 R34 GTT/C34 Stagea Series 2 Oxygen Sensor $90 Ruzic Datalogger and Engine Monitor II $500 Plenum $200 Walbro e85 fuel safe pump $200

you used to be cool

Yeah I've used a lot of the narva stuff and it is definitely better than average....but they don't do anything that puts relays in with fuses which is a shame because it's a pretty obvious need. I try to stay away from cheap/ebay electrical stuff in the race car because it all seems to fail at some annoying and inconvenient time.....

That f**king sucks.....post up some pics somewhere because you never know who will see it at a track one day....it can be a small world sometimes. My trailer went walking too but was recovered the next day due to CCTV

I'm still unclear on exactly how Andrew Clenell performed CTP Insurance Fraud? The market seems to be a good example of a government formed oligopoly with everyone sharing cosy, comfortable profits to me. I am hugely doubtful that fraud is the main cost driver and would love to see some actual evidence rather than quotes from the insurers who are trying to defend why their profits should continue....

Yes it can be adjusted if you know what you are doing, details are in section C5 (page C-120 of the service manual).

ahh they are such a great car aren't they post up or pm me the vin and i can check. I used the Stagea to tow the Leaf to Bathurst and back on the weekend, it made easy work of a very heavy load as always. Very happy with how the car runs, even though it has over 300,000klm on it now

So....another year.....another request for updates. I can't see Mark Clair's Racerecall site any more so I guess his business didn't make it My radcam has not worked so good since I plugged it into 12v instead of 5v So....what does full HD, can run off 12v, has one or more remote camera heads and records to SD? Oh, and has been reliable

Neil used them on the weekend at Bathurst and found they worked better than the Avon softs (that cost $200ea more). There's a reason they were banned from superlap

yeah redline themselves say don't use lightweight in a synchro box because it is too slippery. I think people generally use it in old boxes to mask synchro problems (I sure have, and it worked great), but if you have a new or rebuilt box I would definitely not use it.

Yep, you can just unplug them. volts comes straight from the power supply to the gauges, oil temp is 1 connector on the oil/water heat exchanger under the plenum that you could now unplug or remove, and boost comes from a map sensor on the firewall next to the brake booster, which you could also unplug and remove (remember to block the air hose that goes to it if you do)

I don't think any of those are the same, I think the stagea one is larger, but a similar design? Would have to measure to check

I like neat fuses and wiring, partly because I'm anal, partly because neat is also reliable. This looks excellent although I haven't needed to use it basically it gives you 6 circuits on either constant 12v(or something else like IGN or ACC depending where you source the main power), or switched 12v (eg IGN or ACC) depending on where you plug the fuse in. only 30A max from the relay these are the austalian importers: http://www.solidkit.com.au/ But in your case it looks like most of them have a high amp requirement per circuit which makes it a bit tricker. maybe have a look at configurable PDMs like this: http://www.prolecproducts.com.au/phpcode/list_products.php?product_group=11&product_range=45&collection=233&series=1004

don't know either sadly, although you should be able to follow one hose back to the rear of the water pump housing (that is the in). but I don't think it matters.....flush from both ways for a min or 2, job done

nothing wrong with maching brakes as many times as you like, just keep them above the minimum (generally 2mm less than new, but I tend to rely on the DBA cattledog too). Afterall, that's how they made the discs the right thickness in the first place. Just make sure you bed the pads in again after machining, it will remove all the pad build up and it needs to be restored

umm you would hope the LPG guy would be familiar with how to test the float in the tank to get the answer. 32 GTR is 6ohm Full, 80ohm empty. I couldn't find the same data in the stagea manual but it is most likely the same. But frankly, they should take the float out of the tank and test the resistance and full and empty to confirm

interesting input, thanks guys. I kind of feel like I posted should go twins or single turbo in the FI section..... anyway, for street use I understand why the cutoff and foreground of LEDs are an issue and frankly it makes it an expensive gamble to get a good one....or perhaps there are no good ones.... in my case I was looking to make a current saving rather than getting a better than average bulb so it may still be OK to run a cheap LED globe. But clearly I am not going to get what I am after from an LED high beam so I think I might look into a light bar when (if) needed for night racing. Also, between what I've read here, and the fact both headlights are a bit borken after years of racing, I've decided to replace both headlights with the base spec /N1 reflector lights which will take a much easier H4 bulb anyway. And for the rest of the lights I've gone Philips from ebay. Thank y'all

Also for sale, brand new unused Walbro e85 400l/h pump http://walbrofuelpumps.com/450lph-walbro-e85-racing-fuel-pump-f90000267.html $200