Duncan

Holy shit, how fast were you guys driving to get that far in 5 1/2 minutes!!

Hi mate, just recheck your pic, it shows 23300-20P05, not what you posted above (-20P050). You could always buy brand new from amayama but ouch! US519 https://www.amayama.com/en/search?q=23300-20P05. I don't know how to reverse search to a model, but your number matches an R33 GTST VIN that I have. It has an alternate part number 23300-AA300 which will be a direct fit, and another part number 23300-08U15 for a different "specification"....my non-existent Japanese wont let me work out the difference Anyway, all that aside, if you are happy to buy from Japan just contact Jesse Streeter and tell him you need a starter motor for an RB25 he'll come up with new and 2nd options for you.

There were probably a bunch of CA based motors in the states in small cars in the early 90s that might also suit, I think they were similar

lol yeah I was talking about the car....the engine was proven to be fine in proper applications (ie, how Nissan did it )

Firstly, that part number format is correct, it is xxxxx-xxxxx so there is no digit missing. Starters are not normally a problem in Oz because all of the RB motors (RB30, RB25, RB26, RB20) all use the same one, as well as a locally built holden shitbox. They would also be readily available ex japan, but I have no idea what common US car would use the same.

so, a little more progress. most of the crappy undoing jobs are done now, probably only 1 more day taking stuff off the car. Neil missed all end of the fun today while sleeping off his Olivia's Benefit night hangover, the last of the de-pressing is done and everything is ready to head up to craved for powdercoating even with the right tools, removing 25 year old factory bushes is a pain in the arse....definitely pay a shop to do it if you get the chance! also dropped off the spare motor for machining, a gearbox and xfr case to award for rebuilding, and ordered new front and rear pads and rotors from Matthew at Racebrakes. Still need to take the dash and the interior out to lightening the wiring loom at last, I guess that is for the next few weeks.

what did you leave unplugged? It is possible the oil pressure is related to the front mount install....if you have a leak in the intake as said above it will idle lower or even die; when the engine is at low revs because its not idling properly the oil pressure may be very low

Thanks Nick, that's the post I was actually looking for

found it, I knew I'd posted something recently: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18757-what-do-i-need-to-do-to-my-car-before-a-track-day/?hl=track#entry596738

I'm intrigued as to how many people have run them back to back to compare?

haha f**k no!

you thinking about giving it a go? I really enjoy the multi run hillclimb +nav format that Buller used to be. I assume rules aren't important considering the changes you've made recently (they don't really matter at Mountain motorsports either....or for Targa sometimes it seems....)

not true in NSW, although I don't know about QLD. In NSW they can even make enforceable findings, although if they are ignored you need to take the further action (CTTT or local court) if you do need to enforce them

supercharger first, then a bypass valve opens for the it when the turbo takes over.....interesting little thing....I think there were some heavy drugs done in Nissan engineering dept in the mid to late 80s. BTW, do you think Gibson spent more or less than they said? It was without a doubt the best engineered car on the grid, even the 31s were very impressive for their base

hey, they aren't that unusual...I've got one

excellent result....but now you've got no more excuses for being captain slow....

doesn't the internet just keep on giving!

lol it was for sale since Feb, you had a chance to grab it! and in the end, it went to someone in the community that will love her like we did

well...firstly the rules change state to state, I guess you are asking about QLD. In my experience almost every skyline has mods, and almost none have engineer's certs. And if something is clearly an upgrade, an engineer is just going to tick it off as OK. The only thing to make it more complex would be any front/rear bias changes or if you should run a larger master cylinder.

wow. 38 pages without a car running properly.

Yeah there are plenty of ways to f**k up a thread repair....I'd be taking Scotty's advice and getting a mobile thread guy in. They might cost you a hundred bucks but if you don't deal with this all the time you're likely to stuff it further, and end up with a bunch of expensive tools you'll never leave again. And yes they are M8 fine which you wont find in most tap kits

EN100 in the GTR manual. There is definitely no spacer between the crank and the flywheel on a manual

I said flange.

got a pic of the part you mean? the flywheel bolts do not have washers from the factory, but they do have a small flange.

Off to a new home, enjoy Cameron!