Duncan

nah, I'd heard the same, they are not doing well with heat management for track use; they are a street use only thing (sure high power, but not high power over a sustained period)

meh, buying a car is an emotional choice, the car makers started it and we all hooked onto it. But yes, people don't know what they are getting themselves in for buying an old car with all their available budget, then finding out that was only the start of the spending

I agree, and it is already happening if you look at the new members from the USA, lots of GTTs and even GT no T being picked up because they find/afford a GTR

lol, that escalated. Perfectly reasonably though

I don't know specifically. I *do* know that it is very likely that historically most/all undertray replacements remove the inner liners and people just run without them. When you are hectic (or serious) enough to really want/need a different undertray, you are probably also running wider, taller or different offset wheels and the guard liners are the first thing that rub (or as I said in the other thread, they blow out at high speeds anyway) Of course, that is before the pricing went nuts on R34s, nowdays it is much more likely people want/expect to retain the liners to protect their overall investment

Just a budget thing I'm sure. Super tourers didn't make it locally and the drivers in that car were paying for drives; so the business case doesn't stack up unless the base car is cheap

Yeah the aussie one was super unsuccessful. It is almost certainly at the back of some workshop under a very dusty cover

Yeah so when you turn key to IGN the fuel pump should run for a few seconds. If you find the fuel pump relay (and have a multimeter, and a second person) to can check the relay inputs. One trigger pin should be either fully earthed The other trigger pin should get 12v from the ECU for say 3 seconds when you turn key to IGN, and at all times that key is at START (note, I said this from memory, it may be the other way around, ie one pin always has IGN 12v and the earth has continuity to earth when you turn the key) One Pin should have a good battery voltage The last pin goes to the fuel pump + Also note that if the power to the relay is good, and the relay is working, it is worth checking the pump has a good earth too. There is a computer in the standard system that increases the earth resistance to slow down the pump when not required, pretty old school and it may have failed

They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox) They ran them in Oz Super Tourers too https://www.supertouringregister.com/register/vehicle/212/ (I'm so old I remember racing with Matthew Fox)

heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.

meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)

Did you check about halfway down the main straight of any race track? That's where they generally blow off and fly away. I lost the ones in my R33 just across the NT border where the speed limit stopped on the highway.

Yeah just google the part# on the AFMs, that will tell you what they are. The standard ones won't support over about 250-280kw so they have probably been changed. Not that it makes much difference unless you are planning on modifying it further, and in any case you would ditch the AFMs and move to a MAP sensor when you put a modern tunable ECU in.

Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)

Its only a guess, but it likely doesn't have cams; probably a Z32 Air Flow Meter and slightly larger turbos. It was very common to chip and remap the standard ECU back in those days, but it means you won't be able to modify it further without replacing the ECU

You are awesome @Rezz!

@Rezz our resident japan guru!

Welcome to SAU, looks like you've picked up a nice one! Any plans to spend more money that you have on it until you hate it?

100% there is no point doing a compression test without an excellent battery. Per what GTSBoy said just hook up a good battery with big jumper leads, running the starter for the compression test takes a heap of juice and is likely your main problem in the first test.

Yeah Ecutek has recently delivered a level of tuning/customisation for the R35 gearbox, will be interesting if the changes are worthwhile or don't make a big difference to driveability

My suggestion would be, even with 6 hours on the engine already, take it back to a dyno and give it a good high load run in, then test again when warm. I've learned through experience that fuel glazing bores is very easy on a new engine but both times it was saved by pushing it harder. You just can't get that sort of good load on the road

Yeah it has been a real mind bender trying to understand the VR30DDTT tune, it is very much target torque based and with electric waste gates theoretically easier to have them open and closed as much as desired without waiting for the vacuum system to respond. Also a pain because there is no sign of aftermarket so you have to remap the factory one, like a nistune but with a billion dimensions on the maps

How have you run it in / what has been done in those 6 hours? Also, you need to do the test hot. You have to load the new motor pretty hard to bed the rings in quickly and properly, doing it on the dyno is best and only takes an hour-ish The other question is.....what were the measured clearances post machining and do they match the specs for the piston and rings

Sounds like a good outcome, must be nice to have it working well, and yes everyone seems to top out under 250rwkw with a low mount rb25 so you are in the right ballpark. It really would have been worth setting up the boost controller at the same time, but at least now you can share some back to back data on how much difference holding the gate closed until you need it makes

Shit thing to find eh? I guess the big issue is that whatever "fix" you do now, it might slow the rust down but won't fix it. I just wanted to add that in no way is fixing sheet metal in 3 dimensions the place to start with welding....that is a pro only job because its too hard to work out where things should be, let alone doing a clean enough job that it can look OK and still be strong too. I needed to get a new rear quarter panel on the GTR and it took a pro weeks to get the old one off cleanly, new one on in the right place and looking somewhat like it should have with most of the previous connecting panels in place. Gluing a couple of bits of metal together with a welder in the garage is doable, but that is totally different to doing panel replacement