Duncan

damn straight. the relationship between rim size, manufacturer's nominal width and safety is unclear at best. semi slick manufacturers sneak very very generous fits into their sizes to give their tyres an advantage. follow what the manufacturer says for that tyre. If you are not sure ring a distributor. but back to your first question (slicks vs semis)......do you think the teams selling them are idiots?!? they are being sold because they are past their best. compare a second hand slick to a second semi, not a new one. there is every chance a second hand slick will be slower than a new or near new semi. BTW I am selling some second hand slicks. They are very cheap (30% of new price), because they are beyond their best. Fine if you understand that and know what you are getting - they will do the job fine and are cheaper than chewing up road tyres for basic practice. But you will not get the best out of your car on them

cowboy1600...as stated above that is NOT the case in NSW. I can't confirm for sure in Vic. But the fact remains....a corporation is not a person and therefore cannot hold a license to lose points....but it can own a car. NO law I am aware of holds employees of a company liable (eg a CEO). Some laws hold directors liable to some extent (which is why they have "Ltd" on the end of the company name). I cannot see how an employee can be held responsible for the actions of a corporation. I'll bet my left nut that the quote you posted becomes unclear about the impact of not nominating a driver because there is no actual way to hold any person responsible for a corporations action (or inaction).

hahah well said! But.... The cube came with achilles "sport" tyres on it, and they are actually pretty good. the poor old auto 1.3 cube kept up with the skylines thru the twisties on putty rd just fine with these tyres I would never have chosen to buy them, but they are actually pretty reasonable. 6/10. There are plenty of worse tyres that are more expensive

OMG I remember this cruise

yeah it's because of the diff. the gtst sump is thin steel and very light, all it has to hold up is 5kg of oil. the gtr sump has to hold up that +20kg of front diff!

interceptor? a big v8?? that reminds me....

actually they commonly break. the spot welds tear out. nismo even have a nismo-fied one where they added a couple of extra welds to a factory pedal and charge triple the price

silicone goop

I run those d2s on my stagea...they protrude less than factory brembos. very compact and light caliper.

yeah unfortunately the gtr has those bolts into the sump not a bolt on bracket. i did say 1-2 might be ok for road use. fixing it will be very expensive. probably worth trying and keeping an eye one it.

lol I ground the side off a sump plug once....must dig up the pic....

your old r33?

face what now? I'm stuck on IRC, #SAU

umm that is not ideal, the spring clips hold the pad in the caliper. I have used r pins for years instead of the wire to hold the pins in, but I've never tried it without the spring clips

meh then you don't have friends either. why don;t you go and be no-friends with each other?!?

see that's why you don't have friends

yeah that is too many broken maybe for street use you could get away with 1 or 2....but not 4. the block and or sump need to be welded and tapped, or replaced. btw flywheel bits can do enourmous damage. follow the holes through the chasis and make sure they haven't hit anything important like cutting a wiring loom. Also watch out for pieces of the last owner's legs in the driver's footwell.

lol sif you have friends!

still not sure if m35 is the same as r32/r33/r34, but if it is, there is a second bleeder near the driveshaft/subframe as well as the gearbox.....try that one first you might have an airlock

haha harry has busy hands! good car control

they should all retract exactly the same way. if one is much tighter it is probably not straight or already seized. as you push one piston in all the others will want to move out. you have to push them all together, or hold 3 while you push the other one

well maybe down south....even my little car was over 6000 in 5th at PI, I guess the powerful cars would be pretty high up in the revs.

lol, aren't you the one that keeps posting up targa spec evos with 2.2l motors? the one make series are the biggest places for cheating...it is too hard to get to the front otherwise. the one I used to run in was the safest type - the promoter prepared the cars so you know other competitors weren't cheating. even so there was a 10% variance in power across the grid which was a lifetime when you are trying to catch someone on a straight.

I don't know if m35 is the same as r32/r33/r34. But if it is: You will not loose xfer case oil if you drop the front driveshaft. There is a seal The system will always bleed when the motor is running. Once the accumulator is empty the pump will start up. There is a second bleeder just above the rear driveshaft (in addition to the one at the gearbox). 9 times out of 10 you don't need to use it, perhaps this is the 1 time.

firstly, be careful! the piston needs to slide back straight into the caliper. if you try and force it at an angle it might seize. and if you push even harder you might manage to score the bore and damage it permanently. firstly....clean everything really well with brake cleaner. this will remove as much old brake dust as possible. even scrub lightly around the piston with a nylon brush. then - before pushing it back, make sure your master cylinder is almost empty. If it is not it will overflow when you push the pistons back. then, you need to push them back as straight as possible. use something long and wide to lever them downwards like a large spanner or thin hammer. take it slowly and change from side to side to make sure they go evenly. a g clamp is even better it will push them back straight.