Duncan

Haven't updated for a while....because I haven't done much I ordered the PMD kit with CB and intercom for the in car, and a handheld with headset. Haven't used it yet (SAU day will be the first), but first impressions are excellent. The PMD stuff is very much heavy duty, a world away from the plastic and lightweight terraphone. Proper connecters at the helmet with locking clasps. Very heavy duty cases, clamps, mounts and wiring. Installation has been simple, the hardest bit was mounting the cb unit.....Neil did an excellent job

yeah Chris I would have been there for this had my car been running, and I intend to do a few rounds when I can. My priroty is the CAMS state series but there are onyl 5 rounds these days (used to be up to 8), so I am looking forward to running smoe other events. But more importantly, this is about the best series for a first time racer. The focus is on working together and fun, rather than the usual racing bullshit from the cams series.

I have no insights into exactly how they tune the lpg fuel computers....other than to say I have never heard of one needing anything other than a fuel computer, and I've never heard of them being tuned on a dyno. thousands successfully installed in all sorts of cars.

it was vapour not liquid injection. I don't know exact before and after fuel use....but they are tight arses so they wouldn't be happy unless it was much better and like I said, no changes to the factory ECU or anything else like an emanage is required. It uses factory timing control and an aftermarket injector controller with the gas kit.

None planned at this stage, we have booked wakie twice. It may be a good idea to give MDTC a go too

random. late. funny.

congrats to the SAU-ers who made it to the track. Michelle, who won a 2 horse race. sounds easy but the lap times say every one was very close Mark who came 3rd, 6th and 8th in a car he would not be familiar with, up against cars like a Mosler. Chris who came in 4,3,4th in the MX5s Most important thing we can be doing is be out there supporting the series so it can continue well done guys

spot on. also, some cheap timing lights read double when using the loop at the rear of the motor. nfi why but they do....i had a supercheap one that was sending me crazy reading 40o when it was really at 20o

well there are some reasons that might be true in some cases. but clearly as a general rule, wider tyres in the same compound will grip better. some reasons smaller may be better: * you can buy a better tyre for your money. A good 225 will certainly grip better than a bad 255 * tyre is too wide for the rim - 255 is too wide for an 8" rim but 225 is not * wet and loose/gravel grip can be better with a narrow tyre because it cuts through the water/dirt to a better surface below. but generally, a wider tyre grips better because each bit of rubber has longer off the road. a wider tyre does NOT result in more rubber touching the road. the amount of rubber touching the road is the same for any tyre size for the same weight of car and same tyre pressure, it is just the shape of the rubber in the road that changes.

I am not sure if the 32 gtst setup is the same as a 32 gtr, but I think it is. For track use, first thing to consider is whether you need to follow any rules. For example CAMS 3E and 3J only allow adjustable bushes. 3D and AASA allow adjustable upper arms. I'll assume it's not a factor for you, just mentioning in case. bushes in the standard arms (somee aftermarket also run bushes like notlec/whiteline plus) will let you adjust by about 1o you can buy shorter fixed arms, or make them by shortening standard arms. you can buy adjustable arms. the adjustable arms available are mostly pretty bad and will not last long (bearings flog out and get noisy). they will allow the must adjustment. adjustable bushes also have problems with flogging out over time, but they are easy to replace. I get about 4-6 races before I have to replace bushes. also, set the car at the ride hieght you want before worrying about the camber - as you lower the car you will get more camber at the same time. I often have to take camber out, not add it.

it's hard to say. if you have just lost the rear wheel (0 boost) but the turbo core is OK, keep driving. Any damage is already done and it won't get worse. but if the core is damaged - whirring/whisting noise, you can end up with shit in the oil from the turbo bearings which would damage/kill the motor if you keep driving. If you aren't sure....you need to get it on a truck. rebuild is $5k+ so that is what you are risking

yeah they had it listed as a skyline part. the might have an error or unclear listing on the rb30 one....or maybe we were both unlucky. and post up the part# if you do get the right one

there's your problem. everyone that gets #832 has trouble. Right TT?

only you and mods can see your warnings. just like you can't see anyone else's. And they mean nothing unless they demonstrate a pattern of rule breaking that needs to be addressed.

that just can't be right. they can't decide to appoint a person responsible for the actions of a corporation, that is the whole point corporations exist. If anyone could be held liable it would be a director not a CEO. No way the CEO of BHP is potential personally responsible for all the points of every car in his fleet. In NSW this is still very much open, we have used it 3 times in 3 years. Although to be fair, the RTA sent us a letter after the last one saying they would not let our company register or re-register a car, ever, if we failed to nominate the driver again

as you both saw, you can edit shortly after posting to fix speling mistakes etc. but users cannot edit after a while to sotp dodgy traders. If you have a post you need editted, use the Report a Post button

I got a local replacement....like nsnpwr I got the wrong one first time (rb30 I guess) but got the right one from the same brand the next time. price was much cheaper than you said above, $150? long time ago, can't remember

actually.....ebcbrakes.com does have a listing for R33 GTS 2.0 but I am not certain...you should still check. It has part# D822 / GD822 which is 4 bolt holes 280mm diameter 50 high 22-20mm thick

sorry, can't find their specs on any site I know either. www.dba.com.au let you search by specs, so measure A rotor diameter B rotor height (disc to top of hat) C rotor thickness (add a mm or 2 probably) D PCD of wheel - it will be 4 x the distance between two opposite studs. eg 4x113 E outer diameter of the centre hole on the hub See what you can find that is close. PCD can be fixed (they can redrill the discs), and so can rotor diameter if necessary (machine it down to a smaller size)

Presumably the LPG kit comes with a fuel management computer? The connection for it will be specific to whatever is installed. BTW I have a friend running an M35 on LPG, it was a good conversion and car runs well.

No, it's even worse that that! Nissan say acceptable is 1l per 1,000klm. We fought with them for year about our 350z which did exactly that, they never fixed it.

absolutely. jump at that if it is a fixed price quote

agreed....my guess is HKS kansai torque split controller....the good one. But if so it should have a control unit up at your dash somewhere.

too soft for march?

they are factory earths for sure. just check continuity between them and some bare metal on the chasis with a multimeter