Duncan

very interesting point. mine used proper rebuildable unis as you said.

I suspect there is something in it, the very serious guys do it. Generally run them once in a practice session the meet before you want to use them....then shove them under the house. Most people in the real world don't bother or can't. A qualifying session is generally 15-20 min, and you can't go fast first lap due to the goop on the tyre. However.....the 2nd and 3rd laps for some tyres are the best they will ever do. So if you were dead serious about time attack you might use new tyres in a morning session if you know the track, and give it a real shot on laps 2 and 3. Finally....different tyres react to heat cycles very differently- some are hardly affected, some are absolute rubbish very quickly. Yoko A048 are an example of badly affected.

absolutely correct. the $1000 fine is for failing to nominate a driver. but as I said....RTA are threatening to bar our company from registering any cars if we fail to nominate again. no idea if it is serious or an idle threat yet

are you talking about putting the plate in front of the plastic surround? if you mount it behind you won't be able to see the edges.

lol I get through heaps of fuel in 7 minutes.....but that is the race car at full throttle it is almost certainly the fuel sender. they are a dodgy little plastic float with a metal arm that contacts on a little metal scale. if the arm is bent/crooked/mount broken it will not read right. it is very easy to break if you move it (changing fuel pump in particular), but can even break on it's own. just replace it....and have a good look at the new one and make sure it is good

just a theory trent. tunnel boring moves the crank off centre compared to the oil pump.

don't tunnel bore the block, stay off the limiter, get the internals balanced.

close finish alright. Pete Conroy's Emo X (first production car home) was only 40 laps down on the winner, 22 seconds a lap slower still surprsingly few retirements. GTR was 2nd retirement. whiplash were you helping with the mosler? what happened?

I've learned 2 things today: 1/ dont lend anything to SatchiThaStagea 2/ You can get a trophy for rolling your race car. Which in fact is funny, because I have one of those trophies in real life too!

New thread over here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/352976-vic-stagea-cruise-sunday-20th-feb/

New thread over here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/352976-vic-stagea-cruise-sunday-20th-feb/

New thread over here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/352976-vic-stagea-cruise-sunday-20th-feb/

off with the pixies unfortunately. to drop one by 2-3 cm you should buy "lowering springs". they are a little shorter and a little heavier/firmer. you can acheive a similar effect by cutting the factory springs shorter but that is not a great idea.

Haven't updated for a while....because I haven't done much I ordered the PMD kit with CB and intercom for the in car, and a handheld with headset. Haven't used it yet (SAU day will be the first), but first impressions are excellent. The PMD stuff is very much heavy duty, a world away from the plastic and lightweight terraphone. Proper connecters at the helmet with locking clasps. Very heavy duty cases, clamps, mounts and wiring. Installation has been simple, the hardest bit was mounting the cb unit.....Neil did an excellent job

yeah Chris I would have been there for this had my car been running, and I intend to do a few rounds when I can. My priroty is the CAMS state series but there are onyl 5 rounds these days (used to be up to 8), so I am looking forward to running smoe other events. But more importantly, this is about the best series for a first time racer. The focus is on working together and fun, rather than the usual racing bullshit from the cams series.

I have no insights into exactly how they tune the lpg fuel computers....other than to say I have never heard of one needing anything other than a fuel computer, and I've never heard of them being tuned on a dyno. thousands successfully installed in all sorts of cars.

it was vapour not liquid injection. I don't know exact before and after fuel use....but they are tight arses so they wouldn't be happy unless it was much better and like I said, no changes to the factory ECU or anything else like an emanage is required. It uses factory timing control and an aftermarket injector controller with the gas kit.

None planned at this stage, we have booked wakie twice. It may be a good idea to give MDTC a go too

random. late. funny.

congrats to the SAU-ers who made it to the track. Michelle, who won a 2 horse race. sounds easy but the lap times say every one was very close Mark who came 3rd, 6th and 8th in a car he would not be familiar with, up against cars like a Mosler. Chris who came in 4,3,4th in the MX5s Most important thing we can be doing is be out there supporting the series so it can continue well done guys

spot on. also, some cheap timing lights read double when using the loop at the rear of the motor. nfi why but they do....i had a supercheap one that was sending me crazy reading 40o when it was really at 20o

well there are some reasons that might be true in some cases. but clearly as a general rule, wider tyres in the same compound will grip better. some reasons smaller may be better: * you can buy a better tyre for your money. A good 225 will certainly grip better than a bad 255 * tyre is too wide for the rim - 255 is too wide for an 8" rim but 225 is not * wet and loose/gravel grip can be better with a narrow tyre because it cuts through the water/dirt to a better surface below. but generally, a wider tyre grips better because each bit of rubber has longer off the road. a wider tyre does NOT result in more rubber touching the road. the amount of rubber touching the road is the same for any tyre size for the same weight of car and same tyre pressure, it is just the shape of the rubber in the road that changes.

I am not sure if the 32 gtst setup is the same as a 32 gtr, but I think it is. For track use, first thing to consider is whether you need to follow any rules. For example CAMS 3E and 3J only allow adjustable bushes. 3D and AASA allow adjustable upper arms. I'll assume it's not a factor for you, just mentioning in case. bushes in the standard arms (somee aftermarket also run bushes like notlec/whiteline plus) will let you adjust by about 1o you can buy shorter fixed arms, or make them by shortening standard arms. you can buy adjustable arms. the adjustable arms available are mostly pretty bad and will not last long (bearings flog out and get noisy). they will allow the must adjustment. adjustable bushes also have problems with flogging out over time, but they are easy to replace. I get about 4-6 races before I have to replace bushes. also, set the car at the ride hieght you want before worrying about the camber - as you lower the car you will get more camber at the same time. I often have to take camber out, not add it.

it's hard to say. if you have just lost the rear wheel (0 boost) but the turbo core is OK, keep driving. Any damage is already done and it won't get worse. but if the core is damaged - whirring/whisting noise, you can end up with shit in the oil from the turbo bearings which would damage/kill the motor if you keep driving. If you aren't sure....you need to get it on a truck. rebuild is $5k+ so that is what you are risking

yeah they had it listed as a skyline part. the might have an error or unclear listing on the rb30 one....or maybe we were both unlucky. and post up the part# if you do get the right one