Duncan

yeah its about 9/10 people I've ever asked

anythign sensible or low mount is fine. but i have a high mount ebay turbo on a ebay manifold

yeah repco too. everywhere sells them

let me ask you a question from experience....did you do the test in sunlight or in a garage

HI mate, water cools better than glycol anyway, it absorbs more heat for it's volume. We run straight distilled water in the race car with a corrosion inhibitor. Castrol make the inhibitor I use but I am sure there are other brands available. If you find you still need more cooling capacity, we also use redline water wetter which made the car run about 5-10o cooler.

I would go #2 unless I was doing lots of serious track work. They 32gtr/33 gtst calipers and discs are an excellent setup, people just overlook them because they are factory and have no sexy brand. Re #3, big brake kits are $2k-$5k depending on whether you want to pay for a brand name. I run the generic chinese 8 piston stuff (k sport/d4/g2/etc) on a couple of cars including my race car with excellent results.

yeah mine fit straight in too 25/30, but I do have a front facing plenum. remember in most skylines it is the timing cover that hits not the intake. only issue was clearance for the strutbrace over the high mount turbo's heat shield, and only then only a few mm.

just ignore us like my wife ignores me

jeebus. someone is going to have a hot arse

nope. and no-one has posted in here saying they have had a problem.

heated windscreen for less than a single race tyre. or about 1/20th targa entry fee. sounds like an excellent investment to me.

101% the same....attessa should be OK up to 3% (common with tyre wear over time). Are you sure the ratio above are correct? I thought the difference was larger

I reckon you are right there....I have done everything to mine in various stages and never got better than 350 to a tank regularly (about 17l). I do use it in heavy traffic and I have a heavy foot. I might swap cars with one of you guys that gets 10 or 12 for a couple of weeks and see if it is me or the car On the bright side.....its a bloody brilliant car

hmmmph for a supposedly lightwieght car it is very hard to push uphill

I wold look at the steering rack itself being bent. especially if it doesn't return to centre very well. The list I posted in adjustable aftermarket bushes would be $3-6k depending on if it is yourself or a workshop doing it. A huge job to do yourself with lots of findly and tricky jobs I agree....but most stuff is flogged out after 15 years and 150000klm

BTW, locked HICAS does not replace the inner and outer tie rod ends, or the hub ball jounts. It just replaces the moveable part of the steering rack.

I used a compressor, with a regulator keeping it under 20psi, and a bleed valve. T-piece for a boost guage. Set it to 5psi, link it to the actuator and slowly close the bleeder until the arm moves. I understand the adjustable length of the actuator only adjusts the preload on the wastegate, should be 3-5mm. I guess that affects the boost by maybe 2psi? But I don't see how it can be really "adjustable" far from the preset tension of the diaghram

unfortunately....that is a big question. the good news is, if you do go through with it you will probably be amazed with how much better the car feels. Front Suspension Springs Shocks. There is a rubber bush at the top and bottom. In a skyline this does not have a direct effect on the suspension geometry unlike in strut suspension. It can still cause a "knock" noise Sway Bars. There are 2 ball joints at each side and 2x "D" bushes that clamp it to the subframe. You can get kits for these from many suppliers. Upper control arm. I am not familiar with the 33 GTST upper arm. In a 32 GTR it has bushes which flog out very easily. I replace mine about twice a season. You can get them locally. Lower control arm. Also not really familiar with 33 gtst. On a 32 GTR it has 2 ball joints, 1 inner and 1 outer. Neither are readily available except from nissan (and expensive). The good news is they last well Caster Rod. Has large bushes at the chasis end. Replacements readily available locally, or use a replacement arm with rose joints Steering rack. Has 2 bushes holding it to the car. Has inner and outer "tie rod ends", both of which can wear. You can get non-genuine ones locally. There is a ball joint at the hub that the tie rod end bolts to, it also wears. Rear. The front was easy. Springs. Shocks. Same as the front. A bush in the strut top, and at the bottom of the shock. Sway Bars. Similar to the front - D bushes attaching it to the car. links with 2 ball joints. Upper Control Arm. Bushes at the inner and outer end. Rose joint options to replace the arm Upper Traction Arm. Bushes at the inner and outer end. Rose joint options to replace the arm Lower Control Arm. 2 Bushes at the inner end. Ball joint at the outer end. I think they are hard to find in rose-joints for 33 Gtst Steering Rack. Inner and outer rack ends, some are available locally. Also ball joints at the hub. Brands to look at: Whiteline, Whiteline plus (noltec), Superpro make "nolathene" bushes which are a fair bit harder than factory, and are often adjustable. You can also get nissan or nismo (similar but a little harder) but very expensive. Or you can replace the whole suspension arm with one of the china aftermarket arms which have "rose-joints" at each end. These are tighter, harsher and will wear out sooner, but are cheap and accurate. Driveline - cv joints in each driveshaft, tailshaft CV joints and uni joint. Gearbox mount. Engine mounts. Diff bushes for front and rear mounts. I have replaced every one of the items above on my race car....and it was worth it. Handling is much more precise and predictable as you would expect for 20yo parts.

stock boxes die mostly between 350 and 450awkw, depending on driving styl/luck . xfer case should be good for anything.

good choice to test them BTW....I tested some the other day, 1 opened at 12psi, the other at 15psi. ie one turbo would have spent it's life working 30% harder than the other. brand new actuators

you should never crack a rotor from having insufficient time to cool them. sure they might crack while driving and get worse when you slow, but you should never stop with very hot brakes. do your cool down at 75% and avoid using the brakes at all. At most tracks that is 2-3min of cooling already. If you are still worried when you get back in the pits, go for a drive at walking speed for another couple of minutes. when you do stop, don't put the handbrake on (the drums can weld to the handbrake shoes). don't use cross drilled rotors. avoid slotted rotors which have slots that go to the edge of the disc. avoid the DBA skyline rotors cast about 3 years ago, they were terrible and all cracked.

can you measure from the centre of the wheel to the guard for both front and rear? this will tell us more about the spring heights in there now. also have a good look underneath, or give us pics of the shocks and springs. it is very possible that old, standard shocks and springs will allow heaps of squat

agreed, the brembos are about 10% more braking at 100% more cost. no worth it. 32 gtr/33 gtst are excellent for the price

well....generally....every bolt with a given strength has a proper torque that it should be tightened to. overtightening is very dangerous because it will stretch the bolt/stud further that it is designed for, causing it to weaken or break. This is very important....overtorqued bolts/studs break all the time, in particular wheel studs. The engineers who decide the right torque have done a heap of testing before deciding on the safe maxiumium torque. Through the magic of mspaint.... A is elastic phase. while you are here the bolt will basically be fine, forever, over and over. it bounces back. B is the yeild point. past here you damage that bolt forever C is the plastic phase....it is changing shape (stretching) forever but has not broken D you have stuffed it....it just snapped. The target torque for a faster is normally about 75% of it's yield point (keeps 25% safety margin). An M6 bolt like the cam cover bolts is only 20nm. ie quite light when done by hand. But.....these are rubber seals and not metal on metal like most bolts. Here they are trying to make sure you don't squash the rubber too far and deform it. so the correct torque is even lighter still. You will see the rubber washers bulge a little, but not be squashed, at the right torque

BTW, that is CAMS only. was this WSID or the circuit? If circuit, which event