Duncan

Not sure, drop Steve-o a pm on that one Sorry no, Superlap are making us pre-order to get the discounted prices. And please everyone remember this offer closes Monday 17 May, ie we must have received the money by then

no problems at all with a 1 piece, plenty of people use them. In your case you need to watch out for driveshaft angles of course being a custom setup

only a loaner for a few days. It does get lots of looks in traffic, and drives well. Needs a dirty big turbo and/or supercharger to ruin it's fuel economy

lol I've got one of these funny little things in my front yard as of yesterday!

per Andrew's posting of the rules....internals are free, casing is not, sequentials are banned (not sure where that stands with factory sequentials of course) Group A homologation is not eligible for Targa, it is Group N homologation that matters AFAIK

even if it does it will only be inconvenient. there is nothing illegal about your car, its just not common to have 15yo imports. the RTA will hae the correct data on file when the VIN is checked

Probably 15yo car as stated....it was changed about 3 years ago to be "pre 89" instead of "15yo" because toyota were afraid of competing with their own landcruisers from 15 years ago. you may have some "problems"but only from people who don't understand the rules. regardless the rta will never let you have a compliance plate because it is not complied. dont worry about it

but isn't the thing stopping you getting to 270kw your injectors, not your turbo? I run a kkr480, it made 250kw @16psi, also injector limited. sounds like you have the right size turbo for your target. but yes an old style bush bearing turbo will always be 500rpm laggier than the ball bearing equivalent. that's why the BB one is between 2 and 5 times the cost.

Hey rob, good researching. I am not sure of the possible diff ratio differences. GTR is 4.1 so if you can confirm 33 GTST that will tell you how much the speed will be out by. But. You should keep your gts diff and bolt it into the gtr subframe. Just check the mounting points are all the same. This way you keep the right yoke, driveshafts and ABS fitting. Alternatively you can fit the GTR's diff centre into your casing which keeps you ABS but you will have to change to GTR driveshafts. But as you said you would need a few days off the road for a shop to do that. Very good idea to get the cradle bushes down before you start. They are 20yo and rooted so it will be worse than current unless you do something. You may find that most or all of the control arm bushes in the GTR cradle need replacing. I recently saw superpro do a "rear cradle" bush set for GTR for about $700. It is expensive but worth considering it will be a big improvement. Check the ball joints where the hicas arms bolt onto the hub before using the GTR cradle. Most of them are rooted and there are a couple of hundred $$ ea from nissan to replace. Also much easier to replace with subframe out and a press. One other option to consider....give it to a workshop for 2 days, get them to do your diff rebuild and subframe bushes, take their courtesy car and just pay. You knuckles will thank you.

hey but it come with a GTR logo on the bottle! must be great and only 3 times the price of the best stuff around

We have had a lot of success just shimming the standard rear diff. obviously 1.5 or even 1 way aftermarket centre is even more effective. How do you find the quaife when one wheel is off the ground, or is that not an issue for you? we have a nasty last corner at our local goat track where the front inside wheel is off the ground for a fair way.

amazing time Duncan, well done.

there is a minor difference in the location or the front end of the LCA between 32 and 33 subframes, on the 33 it is about 2cm lower. Not a big deal unless you are chasing the last 1/10th in lap times

the tunersgroup have been full paid up traders supporting the forum for the last 12 months. Their subscription expired this week and they have been reminded they need to renew or cease commercial posts.

spoke to them today, "waiting on the results of shell's investigation"

gravel traps slow a car on its wheels just fine. just not if the throttle is wide open the the car is running above it not digging in. i'm sure there will be many reviews but a longer gravel trap seems like a good idea...more time to pull momentum out of the car

done! not done! please check before requesting!

lol did you take the rags out of the intake this time bitch? I was wondering where you found a decent space to work, then i spotted kyle's ugly mug

Thought I should add my choice. I've only ever seriously had a shot at 2 race series. The first was a promotor controlled single make series. They provided the cars, no competitor had any part in preparing them. The racing was super close which was excellent. However, over time the repair bills just got silly, $1k in new bumpers, guards and bonnets every round. That and the favourite customers got the quickest cars, even in a single make series the quick cars were up to 10% quicker than the slow cars. 3 years in that series. So I moved to racing production cars (CAMS 3E) in NSW, which as a bonus was identical to cams rally rules at the time except for brakes and boost. The regs for production cars only run to about 5 pages, and the first rule is "if its not in these rules it cannot be modified". Some insight into the rules and how they are enforced: * I have had my sway bars measured with vernier calipers * I have had my diff ratio measured by turning the wheels on stands and checking how many times the tail shaft rotates. * I have had my fuel checked. * I have to tun a pop off valve that releases all boost if it goes over the factory 12psi. If it goes off it takes me 2-4 seconds to get it back, by then the cars are miles past me. * I have to run standard wheel size, 17x8. So the widest tyre I can run is 235. Tyres are marked and I can only run 2 new tyres per round. * I have to run standard weight (easy with a cage in) and cannot run lower than 100mm (ie same as a road car). These is checked every 2-3 rounds for every car * When I build a motor it has to be sealed. If the motor is not sealed any other competitor can force me to disassemble it and prove if they protest. If I run without a proper seal for 12 months I have to tear it down no matter what. When the motor is sealed they measure bore, stroke, head gasket, block height, head height (calculate CR), and the CC of the combustion chambers. The cams have to be measured by the single approved measurer, picked up by the engine sealer and put in the engine in their presence. They then seal the motor with 6 seals (2 on sump, 2 on each cam cover). If I remove a seal eg to torque down head bolts I have to start it all again. * Engine seals and tyres are checked every round for every car. We have a full "scruitiny audit" which takes about an hour every 3-5 races 5 years in that series so far. And if the engine rules sound tough they are much better than the national series. They don't seal engines they do random checks after rounds. One of our guys did a national round in vic, got selected for a check and were given a rattle gun and a hoist. They had to pull the motor out and strip it in the presence of the scuits for measuring. When the measuring was finished, confirmed OK, the scruits said thanks and left. Car and motor in bits on the floor. I will never run an event like superlap or sports sedans with any expectation to place well. To me a series with no rules will always be won by the person who spends the most. And that means unless you are the richest person in the world, someone can spend more than you.

Ash unless you a/ know the details of an ATTKD select R SP b/ know that the car was presented with a different spec then you don't really have a reason to question their integrity. In fact your suggestion that the car is not legal is somewhere between uninformed insinuation and wild accusation. Exactly why I don't like these cars competing. But they are legally allowed to. It is the competitor's responsibility to provide documentation that the car's spec is legal. And in Steve's case he had the owner of ATTKD along supporting the car, just like Mazda had Alan Horsley's guys supporting the Rx8. And lets not forget the outright 1st and 2nd cars also fall under these limited rules and are not being questioned. BTW R34 N1 spec is anything but "well known". It does not help that the last R34 N1 that I know of that was disqulified presented a forged letter on nissan letterhead confirming a certain piece of spec was legal. When Porsche checked with Nissan JP as part of their protest the forgery was uncovered.

BTW I am really surprised no-one has voted for open slather. AASA and Irace racing in NSW are very popular and get similar number of competitors to the CAMS state round. Their rules which apply to my car are: "It has to be based on a japanese turbo import". Yet it is very popular. Where are those guys and why race with AASA instead of the strict rules at CAMS?

actually, they both run an r200 diff so both able as each other to handle the same power. the gtr one does have a factory mechanical 2 way centre while s13 is viscous LSD. gtr driveshafts are stronger gtr hubs are alloy they have the same geometery including the poor front mounting point for LCA (fixed in R33/S14 onwards)

One interesting example about AASA rally rules. While you can now change many things including injectors, you cannot change AFMs. Standard AFMs hit max voltage at around 300kw. But you can change to a computer that does not require AFMs which gets around that rule.

FWIW I run 98 octane in 4 different cars including the race car, and I have never found any variation between any brand. If there is a difference it is the sort of 1% that you would never notice or feel unless your tune was too aggresive in the first place. This thread is about a genuinely rubbish batch of fuel, not a comment on one brand v another

lol RDA = Rotors and Drums Australia. How crazy that they ship to the UK, sell it there and ship it back for less than you can buy locally. Having said that check the RDA group buy in the group buy section the prices are excellent