Duncan

much more likely to be the sender in the tank than the dash. almost every car uses a sender that changes resistance based on the level of fuel. c34 certainly does and mine was rubbish (just changed it), all good now

standard computer is reprogrammable. that would be the cheapest option i guess

btw interesting anti-dive in the castor rod spacers at the front....looks simple and worth trying

sorry no actual detail...anything with gears in it is too complex for me. I know they add extra clutch plates of extra thickness to the centre, and that they immediately understood what I meant so I assume it was simple/common enough. my instructions were "I want it tight enough so it clunks in carparks" and it came back perfect. Same for transfer case too, extra clutch plates in there bring on the 4wd sooner which is welcome

both cracked subframes were are the same place, the main loop between the front and rear mounts, right up at the chassis. was easy enough to tig up but would be careful with load on the rear of these. c34 on the other hand have steel subframe not aluminium

lol that's not how it works. in 12 months you will be selling it and buying a "sensible, family" car hope it all goes well

At least there is something to bring us together at this crappy time....SAU NSW members please refer to the thread in the members area. Alex, thanks for your courage facing the internet today, everyone here supports you and the families and friends remaining. Please pm when one of the exec with your contact details when you feel ready to talk about how we can help

yes we will...and we will have a club members marquee in the padock too

like I said, I thought more people would have this point of view. AASA and Irace are for you....just run wot you brung

I've seen 2 M35s (neither with tow bars) on the hoist now having their alloy subframes welded up. I wouldn't tow a box trailer behind one.

lol this hairdresser's car? its been sold, leaving on friday. I didn't supply this pic

Not sure, drop Steve-o a pm on that one Sorry no, Superlap are making us pre-order to get the discounted prices. And please everyone remember this offer closes Monday 17 May, ie we must have received the money by then

no problems at all with a 1 piece, plenty of people use them. In your case you need to watch out for driveshaft angles of course being a custom setup

only a loaner for a few days. It does get lots of looks in traffic, and drives well. Needs a dirty big turbo and/or supercharger to ruin it's fuel economy

lol I've got one of these funny little things in my front yard as of yesterday!

per Andrew's posting of the rules....internals are free, casing is not, sequentials are banned (not sure where that stands with factory sequentials of course) Group A homologation is not eligible for Targa, it is Group N homologation that matters AFAIK

even if it does it will only be inconvenient. there is nothing illegal about your car, its just not common to have 15yo imports. the RTA will hae the correct data on file when the VIN is checked

Probably 15yo car as stated....it was changed about 3 years ago to be "pre 89" instead of "15yo" because toyota were afraid of competing with their own landcruisers from 15 years ago. you may have some "problems"but only from people who don't understand the rules. regardless the rta will never let you have a compliance plate because it is not complied. dont worry about it

but isn't the thing stopping you getting to 270kw your injectors, not your turbo? I run a kkr480, it made 250kw @16psi, also injector limited. sounds like you have the right size turbo for your target. but yes an old style bush bearing turbo will always be 500rpm laggier than the ball bearing equivalent. that's why the BB one is between 2 and 5 times the cost.

Hey rob, good researching. I am not sure of the possible diff ratio differences. GTR is 4.1 so if you can confirm 33 GTST that will tell you how much the speed will be out by. But. You should keep your gts diff and bolt it into the gtr subframe. Just check the mounting points are all the same. This way you keep the right yoke, driveshafts and ABS fitting. Alternatively you can fit the GTR's diff centre into your casing which keeps you ABS but you will have to change to GTR driveshafts. But as you said you would need a few days off the road for a shop to do that. Very good idea to get the cradle bushes down before you start. They are 20yo and rooted so it will be worse than current unless you do something. You may find that most or all of the control arm bushes in the GTR cradle need replacing. I recently saw superpro do a "rear cradle" bush set for GTR for about $700. It is expensive but worth considering it will be a big improvement. Check the ball joints where the hicas arms bolt onto the hub before using the GTR cradle. Most of them are rooted and there are a couple of hundred $$ ea from nissan to replace. Also much easier to replace with subframe out and a press. One other option to consider....give it to a workshop for 2 days, get them to do your diff rebuild and subframe bushes, take their courtesy car and just pay. You knuckles will thank you.

hey but it come with a GTR logo on the bottle! must be great and only 3 times the price of the best stuff around

We have had a lot of success just shimming the standard rear diff. obviously 1.5 or even 1 way aftermarket centre is even more effective. How do you find the quaife when one wheel is off the ground, or is that not an issue for you? we have a nasty last corner at our local goat track where the front inside wheel is off the ground for a fair way.

amazing time Duncan, well done.

there is a minor difference in the location or the front end of the LCA between 32 and 33 subframes, on the 33 it is about 2cm lower. Not a big deal unless you are chasing the last 1/10th in lap times

the tunersgroup have been full paid up traders supporting the forum for the last 12 months. Their subscription expired this week and they have been reminded they need to renew or cease commercial posts.