Duncan

I can't confirm in the 33 system, but the weight of the "heavy" steering in 32 is perfect for track work. We aren't talking unassisted steering it just takes a little more force than usual.

don't know about easier. bush bearings are cheaper for sure. but 32 n1 runs 270o bush bearing not 360o, not exactly ideal. ball bearing should cause less drag, faster spool and more power for the same size wheels...

I can't comment on the r581 turbs....but the 32 n1 turbos which I understand are essentially the same spec, come on about 4,500 and make power to about 20psi. ie they are utter rubbish compared to any modern ball bearing turbo. Literally 50+kw less at 1000rpm higher.

pics?!? i don't get it!

good to hear hugh....got any pics??

personally I would go gasket paper and cut it out painstakingly. don't really trust (haha) the silicon gasket stuff. And yes I've very surprised your kit did not come with it, especially if it was "greddy" rather than "greddy style"

just bend slowly they will be fine. keep an eye out for kinks

very reasonable - there are hours of work in that job, and the belt/tensioner/idler and water pump would be 300+ on their own

indeed you have made a mistake the shifter goes into the transfer case not the gearbox. so....drain the gear oil from the xfer case, and fill it with auto trans fluid instead. Then fill the gearbox thru the gearbox filler (forward on the gearbox from the xfer case filler you mentioned) no harm done apart from the expensive oil on the ground

thanks to whoever just sent me the blank side of the membership form from 02 9997 8655.....don't suppose you could send the side with writing on it as well

well the good news is oil pressure relates directly to engine revs. so if revs are 0 or even under 300 would expect the oil light to be on. need to find out why idle is not stable at 800 or whatever it should be - these cars have a beautiful idle when healthy

we can probably dig up the answer.....but what exactly do you mean by "stock twins" unmodified factory turbos with ceramic wheels factory turbos with hi flow cores factory n1 turbos or just any low mount setup?

not at all roy....the great thing about these motors is that you can build one for sensible power targets really cheap. any type of stroked/shiney/whatever race motor is a different story. 99% of motors on here are in the real world where budgets are not unlimited...the $10k I spent putting an rb30 in the stagea was some of the best money I've ever spent on a car. Yes it is a lot of money but a long way short of $20k+ some people spend to impress people on the internet lol let me know if one of those overbearing nazis turn up.

goddammit! need 8 weeks notice not 2 days!

almost certainly....although confirming the actual tyre you mean would help (I have always been very suspicous of the hoosier ones). as long as they have legal tread depth of course

yeah I run the federal 595SS, excellent tyres at excellent prices to NSW club members. Mine in 245/45/17 were less than 1000.

nothing wrong with a gtr track car as long as you are ready for the fact you need to spend double the purchase price to get it up to scratch and keep it running. but when it is running properly the smile it leaves on the face is absolutely unbeatable. prior to the gtr I ran a 33 gtst, it was a good, cheap, reliable option. just not fast and after a while you want to go quicker. like anything in racing an honest budget is the most important thing....so what can you afford to spend on the car in the first 2 years?

are the revs lower than normal when it is "shuddering"

hey? weren't wyong the council putting out EOI and surveys for a motorsport facility? in my experience cesnock council are not interested in any project that would undermine their title as unemployment captial of australia. we had to take them to the land and environment court to setup a corporate facility there a while back.

actually....not a bad spot really! everything in front of the radiator is bad.....cooling is marginal in these cars, then we put air con and huge intercoolers in front of it making it worse. the driver and passenger inner guard have good airflow in and out, and as long as it is ducted to the front bar there is nowhere for the air to go except through the cooler

I love the fact they even stole the name from nascar - car of the future = car of tomorrow. tony turns out such bad copies of good ideas that he should run a chinese manufacturing business i dont mind them at all...very close, aggressive racing.

actually a basic bottom end rebuild is a very simple thing. assuming you get a machine shop to check and hone the block, and check the crank, the rest is pretty easy. the trick is in cleaning it properly as said above, and not trusting the machine shop. At a minimum you need to use plastiguage to check nothing silly has happened with clearances. From there you the only specialist tools are a good torque wrench and maybe an angle gauge. stretch gauge as well for the rod bolts if you want to be very serious. I've built a heap of bottom ends and have no mechanical background....and it is easy enough. I've never made a mistake that caused a failure, just double or tripple check everything before you put it together. BTW i don't see how any bottom end is much easier or much harder to work with. heads maybe but not bottom end.

hmmm...unless it has a spacer to sort out the rod to stroke ratio...anything more than about 2.8l in a 2.6 litre block is getting silly. I'm sure it *can* be done.....but should it? that sucks....hope you don't have to do full emissions test as well omg they have an app for that???? That's wierd.....i guess the rb30 might run out of puff up high but it should still flow the same air/make the same power, just at lower revs? Not much point calling these a forklift block...rb30 was by miles the biggest selling rb motor...they are very well proven BTW is this going to become one of those threads I have to lock and hand out warnings?

um can you take another shot at explaining what you are trying to do :| no doubt there is a solution! are you just trying to fit an mdf sheet to metal parcel shelf - then cover with carpet?

good call...thanks