Duncan

just to clarify, the only controller that is any use for drag is the HKS Kansai one linked aboe, and they are very hard to find. Every other attessa controller from the ebay one ($15 of parts for $250) up to mountainrunner's excellent ones use the same basic technique of bending the standard signals. The standard system already puts as much torque as it can to the front in a straight line so these controllers cannot increase front torque for drag use. They are absolutely excellent for track use though....

Hey Owen, yes I have your form, and Tom same. David funnily enough there are 2 other Muscat's entered but neither are called David

good point, I keep forgetting about class 2 And I've never looked at the rules! Yours is log booked as 2A isn't it?

are you coming to texi and can you wait until then? I can bring one along

hey we had 2 hairdresser cars last time and both placed near the top. probably would have won if they didn't both stop for a latte mid course. just send the details from the form to duncan(at)skylinesaustralia.com and I will make sure a place is reserved. what have you entered for the second car? Or do you have a mysterious stalker not sure re the extinguisher - when you get one tested they affix a dated tag but I don't know how this works with ones that have not been tagged

yeah I just mean as long as they are around as organisations. All of them are under 5 years old and only time will tell if they have the financial and insurance backing to make it. eg 2 people died in a rally in adelaide a few weeks back - imagine the investigations and insurance pay outs if you are the organisers. I race in production cars, and although I have done heaps of work on the car it is 99% standard. Other than shocks/springs/ecu/exhaust/cam gears and safety stuff it is all factory including factory turbos, boost 12psi, standard cams, head, bottom end, wheels etc etc. Every new motor is fully measured and sealed to make sure I don't change anything from factory. When I run outside CAMS I just turn the boost up from 12 to 18 psi but thats it. Its probably got the lowest power of pretty much any skyline on the track. Its a bit late now....but when you build a car you need to pick the race category before you pick the car or you are in for a world of heartache and cost trying to make the wrong car fast. The AASA etc stuff is different - much looser (or no) rules and much less "serious".

you can't race an rb30 in any cams class except IPRA, and that would require a 36mm restrictor so a skyline is too heavy to be competitive. sports sedans require original block for floorpan chasis cars, so rb25 is the max there. I'd suggest just build whatever you like and race it with AASA/Irace/MRA. As long as they survive you'll be OK to run.

best news I've seen in Tarmac Rallying in ages! -------------------- Dear Targa Wrest Point Competitor, Just so you have a heads up on what we will be targeting in terms of eligibility, I would like to advise you of the following: 1. Random checks of engine stroke will be carried out pre event and all place getters post event 2. Fuel will be tested pre event, out on the course and all place getters post event 3. Exhaust sizes will be checked thoroughly pre event and all place getters post event – Early Modern and Modern SS & LMS exhaust tolerance is 15% not 10% as listed in the Supplementary Regulations. 4. Fuel Injectors on Showroom and Modern SS vehicles will be checked thoroughly pre event and all place getters post event Showroom vehicles will be particularly targeted in all areas listed above. Whilst we want everyone to enjoy our events, we must also ensure that the rules of the game are being followed to create a fair environment for every competitor. See you all soon Mark Perry Event Director

if I was doing this all again I would cough up for digital dash for sure. individual gauges are expensive once you get them all and a pain to wire in. digital dash does all that (still need senders of course), plus you can set it up to suit you, plus its simple, plus you get datalogging when you are ready for it

haha yep....these things always take waaaaaaaay longer than you expect

sorry to hear that Chris. looks like I'm right to be there, car is at the workshop but should be back tuesday. happy too have a hand (hopefully won't be needed) or just drop by and say high. unfortunately I am banned from production cars because the car is more than 5 years old which is utter crap as far as I'm concerned - the car is otherwise compliant with their production car rules, and other guys I race in NSW state champs are allowed in prod cars because their taxis are less than 5 years old.....so I have to run in open class instead. I'll give it a go but unless it's great I won't be back with those guys.

yep, mostly because it was complete and spot on there might be cheaper options for basic cost, but this was a straight fit, no stuffing around option which is exactly what any workshop wants. no point saving $100 and then having the workshop spend 4-8 hours modifying things to fit at $80-100/hr We ended up using the standard pickup so it is about 1cm higher than normal - as a result I run a little more oil. We could have extended it as suggested but this is just a roady and it wasn't worth the trouble.

ahh I don't think it will be any sort of world beater, maybe 250kw at 18-20psi (that was about the goal). But I'll get an overlay of my setup and a standard one

I love the toys you get to play with. the proper GT cars are the some of the most seriously engineered cars around

ahh it's been manual for ages - the auto was the first thing to go I just could not live with the car making it's own gear selections. second round of mods was the brakes (8 spot) + sydneykid's full suspension setup. this round started when I had 2 oil pump seals fail in 3 months....I figured if I'm going to build a motor it may as well be a 30 instead of just another 25 car is amazing at low revs, its the car nissan should have built in the first place.

were they good skids?

just to clarify re cooloant vs water.... no! and yes you will! no! no! (and yes!) almost exactly right, except the last bit we have a winner! how it works is simple. the system would boil at 100o running straight water at 1 bar. We put higher boiling point radiator caps on the system - under pressure the boiling point is raised. I'm sure there is a scientific rule but my observation is water boils at around 130o with a 1.3bar cap. water is one of the best things around for absorbing heat without increasing in temp itself - this makes pure water (distilled, not tap) the best readily available option for using as coolant. all that glycol (the main ingrediant in coolant does) is stop rust, and stop the coolant feezing below zero.

here is the circuit times thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/SA...mes-t46199.html mybest was 1.10 but it was pretty standard. I'm sure there are gtst that have gone faster.

different but interchangeable. the later models had more fins for cooling the housing

great to see....and mate and I did a couple of season shitbox racing in the state motorkhana champs but the khanacross sounds even better. can you post up when the rounds are on - I'll try and check one out

not silly at all - we have the same option in circuit racing (any category as a safety thing), since you are on dirt it is 100% definately better to be able to lock a wheel under brakes. so....full rewire....there are better people to answer that than me (eg damo and brad) but this is what I did: took the engine loom and chopped out every line not required. re-routed stuff like the earths and power in. traced the attessa ECU wires and kept what I needed. Very much of it was ABS so a lot can go (the Attessa computer is the abs computer as well) new battery location to starter and alternator, then kill switch, + a circuit breaker to protect everything else. seperate circuits for everything to make tracing faults easier (and if one thing stuffs up everything else still works) my car is not running yet so take my advice with a grain of salt (or maybe a whole shaker of salt)

I've always assumed it was a one way treatment.....would be interesting to hear if there was a way to remove it but I assumed the only option was tear everything down and clean it properly.

nope. But I assume they would use the stock pump and a programable ECU with a PWCM output to control the pump based on wheel speed input or something like that

holy shit....george! been a while, where've you been hiding?

It's this Friday right? We are racing Fri/Sat there so can't do this as well - but I hope you get a few people along since its the last chance to do some laps around the north circuit!