Duncan

I can't take it any more. Autoreplace for retard has been removed. No idea why it was ever there.

I'd give Just Jap a bell, they will have options in stock Actually, just did a search, 18 options from different brands and price points, should get you started

Umm, Fuga does all those things, 230kw vq35 + 50kw electric motor it goes well too

Good choice, powercoating looks good and is way better for durability than paint. I've been running PC cam covers for about 10 years on the race car and they still look good

FYI you can't change from factory injectors without a tunable ECU.

The BMW shitbox will of course be worse. Worse when new and way worse the day after warranty ends when all the warning lights come on and you can't resell it. It's just like staying with twins instead of single on a GTR

These days you can also do instant payment from most banks through phone app in OSKO. When we sold the LEAF we just had them pay that way, checked we received it in our app and gave them the keys. Just need to watch out for daily payment limits. Re paperwork, your location is not in your profile so it's hard to guess. In NSW you give them the rego papers and can submit the notice of disposal online

Surely you still had 1,2,3 and 5! Quitter!

Are the 3 bolts that hold it to the engine in one place tight?

I am pretty sure the rb26 setup which does use an o-ring uses a squared off one, not a round one. I think it would be worth sourcing the correct one if possible or you might have disappointment on first start

welcome to SAU, got any pics?

It's not 2010 anymore mate, the world has moved on. An R series GTR is no longer for making big power out of, breaking parts that can no longer being replaced, leaving in the garage for years, then repeat. It is for keeping standard as possible, putting genuine nismo accessories and maybe some period rays wheels on, and shipping to the US when you win GTR lotto. People don't have to like change but it happens anyway. Ask anyone who wanted to own a GT Falcon or even a Torana in the last 20 years.

Yes, those. That kit includes the slightly different oil drain fitting you need. And no, don't run or drive it. Depending what has happened exactly there could be crap all through your oil. Also, it is worth having someone check it out and make sure turbos are the only issue, they don't generally die on their own and there is a chance they can do other damage

Exactly. 2nd is quicker to do and might cost a little more, and you will get 20% more whoosh. You'd be mad to convert a GTR from twins to single these days unless it is for genuine race only use

Dose wins!

lol, next he'll be making an offer for Twitter!

I don't know, but if you either post up or pm your VIN I can check in FAST. I bought a set of genuine front trims for the GTR but ended up having generic ones installed because the clips they rely on were broken and not available to replace. I think most cars will have aftermarket seals these days

Yep I'm going to try that style of sheilding in the section closer to the hose this time. Per that listing it is rated the same as the speedflow stuff I had that didn't work 260o, and for that matter the same as 200 series hose. Since not everybody is having this issue, I think routing it further from the exhaust housing is the main thing I need to fix. Not much room to improve but the 45 was towards, not away from, the housing.

And I should have asked, when it stops do you have "reds" on the dash (like before you go from IGN to Start) or is the dash blank like you turned the key off. Again, second option suggests something electrical is stopping the car, Reds suggest a stall

How dos it stop? Does it run rough and stall, or is it more like you turn it off with they key? If the latter, check for a turbo timer or aftermarket alarm wired in under the dash.

Great to see a readily available option. What is the socket for the fluid level on the 35, were you able to find plug+pins for the 32 wiring?

hmmm yes but the stagea is a long way from the factory lines fitting any more I guess I'll give 200 series a go if there are no other suggestions, speedflow rate them at 260o vs 150o for their 100 series. Incidentally they only rate their insulation to 260 as well. Aeroflo rate their 200 effectively the same at 250o I can improve the routing from what the workshop did, the line runs within about 5mm of the unsheilded exhaust house (feed) and manifold (return) so I will try and make that a little better too. Might have to look into a turbo beanie as well because it seems to get damn hot up there. All a bit of a pain with Easter and general supply issues atm, I guess she will be off the road for a couple of weeks

So the stagea developed a nasty coolant leak onto the manifold, pretty dramatic amounts of smoke(steam) and lots of lost coolant. I checked it out today and found the braided and shielded water line had basically disintegrated near the exhaust housing Rubber melted and line pretty much blocked. It was shielded with the speedflow -8 heat shield. So, the question is, what is a more reliable hose/shield combination for a water line running near a turbo core? The previous one was speedflow 100 series

Yep, good time to install and check all LEDs. Keep in mind you need to apply 12v to the lighting + not dash + to light them up

1. Yes, assuming they are for the same make/model 2. Sort of, you can power them up by applying 12v to the + and - pins (if you can identify them). Eg, take a battery, put a small fuse on the + side and hook it up. But that won't tell you if the gauges work, they will need proper inputs. Just do step 1 3. Not really, and there is no check. Just do step 1 and keep the old dash, if you are concerned take a pic of the klm on your old and new dash on the same day to show the delta. Basically if they are correct for your car, it is a simple case of disassembling the dash fascia, unscrewing and unplugging the old on, and plugging in the new one. Before you do is a good time to check all the globes are present and work in the new dash