Duncan

I don't know, but if you either post up or pm your VIN I can check in FAST. I bought a set of genuine front trims for the GTR but ended up having generic ones installed because the clips they rely on were broken and not available to replace. I think most cars will have aftermarket seals these days

Yep I'm going to try that style of sheilding in the section closer to the hose this time. Per that listing it is rated the same as the speedflow stuff I had that didn't work 260o, and for that matter the same as 200 series hose. Since not everybody is having this issue, I think routing it further from the exhaust housing is the main thing I need to fix. Not much room to improve but the 45 was towards, not away from, the housing.

And I should have asked, when it stops do you have "reds" on the dash (like before you go from IGN to Start) or is the dash blank like you turned the key off. Again, second option suggests something electrical is stopping the car, Reds suggest a stall

How dos it stop? Does it run rough and stall, or is it more like you turn it off with they key? If the latter, check for a turbo timer or aftermarket alarm wired in under the dash.

Great to see a readily available option. What is the socket for the fluid level on the 35, were you able to find plug+pins for the 32 wiring?

hmmm yes but the stagea is a long way from the factory lines fitting any more I guess I'll give 200 series a go if there are no other suggestions, speedflow rate them at 260o vs 150o for their 100 series. Incidentally they only rate their insulation to 260 as well. Aeroflo rate their 200 effectively the same at 250o I can improve the routing from what the workshop did, the line runs within about 5mm of the unsheilded exhaust house (feed) and manifold (return) so I will try and make that a little better too. Might have to look into a turbo beanie as well because it seems to get damn hot up there. All a bit of a pain with Easter and general supply issues atm, I guess she will be off the road for a couple of weeks

So the stagea developed a nasty coolant leak onto the manifold, pretty dramatic amounts of smoke(steam) and lots of lost coolant. I checked it out today and found the braided and shielded water line had basically disintegrated near the exhaust housing Rubber melted and line pretty much blocked. It was shielded with the speedflow -8 heat shield. So, the question is, what is a more reliable hose/shield combination for a water line running near a turbo core? The previous one was speedflow 100 series

Yep, good time to install and check all LEDs. Keep in mind you need to apply 12v to the lighting + not dash + to light them up

1. Yes, assuming they are for the same make/model 2. Sort of, you can power them up by applying 12v to the + and - pins (if you can identify them). Eg, take a battery, put a small fuse on the + side and hook it up. But that won't tell you if the gauges work, they will need proper inputs. Just do step 1 3. Not really, and there is no check. Just do step 1 and keep the old dash, if you are concerned take a pic of the klm on your old and new dash on the same day to show the delta. Basically if they are correct for your car, it is a simple case of disassembling the dash fascia, unscrewing and unplugging the old on, and plugging in the new one. Before you do is a good time to check all the globes are present and work in the new dash

It is not getting enough power, probably through an Accessories 12v circuit. When you installed the new head unit, what did you do? Was it direct fit or did you need to do some wiring?

without disagreeing about the above, and the risk of being a little off topic....there was that one time I snapped the xfer case chain at Targa in 2007. We put it down to assembly error, made a hell of a bang. AND it stopped me changing gears because it mangled the selector gate so I couldn't eve continue in 2wd

They were standard sized head studs though, right? They should hold the head gasket down fine for pretty much any use. I've heard of cracking issues caused by how the studs are installed, ie bottoming out too hard and/or hydro locking due to fluid at the bottom of the blind hole when installing. Never had an issue personally

Yep sadly that block is for the bin. Is the crack near the stud adjacent to the head gasket failure? Did you replace or reuse the head studs? How confident are you the crack was not there prior to this build?

sorry to hear that, it will be interesting to hear exactly what happened once you pull it down. what was the history of they block? was it new to you, was it bored out?

Assuming single, you can and would re-use your flywheel if budget is a concern. Lighter flywheels can feel "sportier". If you are re-using your flywheel you should get it machined for straightness before you put it back in

If you want good quality traction control you need 4 wheels speed sensors. There is a mile of time (in traction control terms) between one wheel slipping, the slack being taken up, the diff locking, slack to the other wheel taken off and grip being delivered. No modern system is OK with that, single sensor ABS was obsolete about 30 years ago. Also, I would never use just GPS for traction control. It is way to slow and inaccurate, particularly for rally use with large trees around. If it can be a 5th input to a system I would add it but you almost never have to deal with a situation with all 4 wheels slipping, at the same time, at the same speed unless you are doing it on purpose...

I haven't personally, but they've been around for years and I haven't heard bad feedback.

well, massive thumbs up to ACS for taking the time and getting the right people to look/listen to it. Goes to show local support is worth it's weight when you have an issue.

This is what the gtr manual says about pedal adjustment, even it the heights aren't identical for a 33 GTST the process probably is. Adjust the stopper first for the right height at rest, the adjust the rod to remove free play

No, it's all good, r33 brake booster is direct bolt in, I'm running one in mine.

There's only really 2 places this can go wrong 1. The full pedal movement does not give full slave cylinder rod movement - Pedal adjustment will help here (although I not BK said he has also seen issues with the slave rod being too short in some slave cylinders 2. The pedal moves the slave rod through it's full movement - in this case something is wrong inside the box. Could be the fork is not clipped in properly, wrong height carrier/bearing combo, broken pivot. You can check for broken pivot or fork not clipped in correctly from the outside because it will flop around with the slave cylinder unbolted, otherwise it is box out to check.

umm, yep. So if you are buying for looks choose whatever you like the look of What size wheels do you run, the R35s @390mm would be very tight under 18s

front and rear of bonnet to engine bay? (just a guess!)

It must be carrier bearing week. I agree, you need box out and to measure correctly. The pedal might have been part of the problem but more likely it is masking the bearing moving less than it should

OK, either the clutch pedal adjustment is no good, or the release bearing is the wrong height (same as a thread yesterday!). Since you said it is up on ramps and at mechanic, it should be easy to confirm if the pedal adjustt is the issue. Pressing the pedal should start moving the slave cylinder rod within the top 1/4 of it's travel, and the slave rod should be fully extended by the time the pedal is on the floor. If not, adjust the pedal. If the slave rod is moving all the way with the pedal, you need to take the box back off and fit the correct sized release bearing and carrier.