Duncan

without disagreeing about the above, and the risk of being a little off topic....there was that one time I snapped the xfer case chain at Targa in 2007. We put it down to assembly error, made a hell of a bang. AND it stopped me changing gears because it mangled the selector gate so I couldn't eve continue in 2wd

They were standard sized head studs though, right? They should hold the head gasket down fine for pretty much any use. I've heard of cracking issues caused by how the studs are installed, ie bottoming out too hard and/or hydro locking due to fluid at the bottom of the blind hole when installing. Never had an issue personally

Yep sadly that block is for the bin. Is the crack near the stud adjacent to the head gasket failure? Did you replace or reuse the head studs? How confident are you the crack was not there prior to this build?

sorry to hear that, it will be interesting to hear exactly what happened once you pull it down. what was the history of they block? was it new to you, was it bored out?

Assuming single, you can and would re-use your flywheel if budget is a concern. Lighter flywheels can feel "sportier". If you are re-using your flywheel you should get it machined for straightness before you put it back in

If you want good quality traction control you need 4 wheels speed sensors. There is a mile of time (in traction control terms) between one wheel slipping, the slack being taken up, the diff locking, slack to the other wheel taken off and grip being delivered. No modern system is OK with that, single sensor ABS was obsolete about 30 years ago. Also, I would never use just GPS for traction control. It is way to slow and inaccurate, particularly for rally use with large trees around. If it can be a 5th input to a system I would add it but you almost never have to deal with a situation with all 4 wheels slipping, at the same time, at the same speed unless you are doing it on purpose...

I haven't personally, but they've been around for years and I haven't heard bad feedback.

well, massive thumbs up to ACS for taking the time and getting the right people to look/listen to it. Goes to show local support is worth it's weight when you have an issue.

This is what the gtr manual says about pedal adjustment, even it the heights aren't identical for a 33 GTST the process probably is. Adjust the stopper first for the right height at rest, the adjust the rod to remove free play

No, it's all good, r33 brake booster is direct bolt in, I'm running one in mine.

There's only really 2 places this can go wrong 1. The full pedal movement does not give full slave cylinder rod movement - Pedal adjustment will help here (although I not BK said he has also seen issues with the slave rod being too short in some slave cylinders 2. The pedal moves the slave rod through it's full movement - in this case something is wrong inside the box. Could be the fork is not clipped in properly, wrong height carrier/bearing combo, broken pivot. You can check for broken pivot or fork not clipped in correctly from the outside because it will flop around with the slave cylinder unbolted, otherwise it is box out to check.

umm, yep. So if you are buying for looks choose whatever you like the look of What size wheels do you run, the R35s @390mm would be very tight under 18s

front and rear of bonnet to engine bay? (just a guess!)

It must be carrier bearing week. I agree, you need box out and to measure correctly. The pedal might have been part of the problem but more likely it is masking the bearing moving less than it should

OK, either the clutch pedal adjustment is no good, or the release bearing is the wrong height (same as a thread yesterday!). Since you said it is up on ramps and at mechanic, it should be easy to confirm if the pedal adjustt is the issue. Pressing the pedal should start moving the slave cylinder rod within the top 1/4 of it's travel, and the slave rod should be fully extended by the time the pedal is on the floor. If not, adjust the pedal. If the slave rod is moving all the way with the pedal, you need to take the box back off and fit the correct sized release bearing and carrier.

Unless you can fix it with pedal adjustment, I believe the issue will be related to the release bearing not having enough movement to release properly. The only way to understand and fix that is box off and measure the movement. I've never had to do it but there will be DIY guides out there somewhere

Well, it would have been useful for him to tell you the actual code before resetting it....but I would not lose a second's sleep about it unless it recurs. Some codes are just for a temporary value out of bounds like an o2 sensor rich or lean. They might indicate a long term issue or it might just be random

In that case you were lucky with the valve guide issue, sooner or later you would end up with a timing belt failure and a bunch of bent valves which would have been way more expensive to fix...

I have no idea on the legaltity of parts that come from a stat write off, other than to point out there is no way you, any buyer, any engineer or inspector would know a part came from a stat write off.

You can't give up on an GTR until you've done more engines than you have fingers.

Assuming it is an MLS and has only been on there a short time, just put it straight back on. The gasket will take up any imperfection. I've done this more times than I would like with no problem

hell of a thing not to work out of the box. makes you wonder if it is a wiring issue in the car with an intermittent break...

that sucks, long walk home!

good call, much better fixing the cause than chasing symptoms

Thanks for posting up the outcome, never seen that before but it all adds to the knowledge base on here.